Body Lift install

[BruiserOutdoors]

It appears as if I am installing my body lift incorrectly. The hard puck on the front most two mounts under the core support rest just barely on the thin sheetmetal lip of the core support. It is close to clearing but not quite. Am I installing it incorrectly? Is it normal to have to cut the bottom of the core support when installing a body lift?


Any advise is appreciated.

 

[DirtDonk]

It’s not normal to cut anything during a body lift install.
How did you install the lift in the first place? Did you lift half the vehicle at a time, or pull the whole body up?
Did you have spacers under any of the original locations?
And did you disconnect all the linkage that is necessary, such as shifters and fan shroud?

Can you post a picture of what you are talking about? From your description it sounds like you’re saying there is space above the mount, but then that would not normally require trimming anything.

 

[BruiserOutdoors]

It’s not normal to cut anything during a body lift install.
How did you install the lift in the first place? Did you lift half the vehicle at a time, or pull the whole body up?
Did you have spacers under any of the original locations?
And did you disconnect all the linkage that is necessary, such as shifters and fan shroud?

Can you post a picture of what you are talking about? From your description it sounds like you’re saying there is space above the mount, but then that would not normally require trimming anything.

this happened when lifting the body up on the frame, and then again when braced and body completely removed and installed on a body cart. photos to come...

 

[BruiserOutdoors]

here are the photos of the situation.

 

[DirtDonk]

So this is all custom stuff then?
And where are the body mounts/cushions/insulators that are supposed to be under the lift blocks?
The block needs to be moved rearward so it’s not touching the unreinforced section of body.

Looking at it again I guess the construct underneath is your bracing or framework for temporarily holding the body. How can you estimate fitment accurately when the body is not on the frame?
I don’t think you can unless your temporary framework is an exact duplicate of the original frame.

How are the door gaps?

 

[BruiserOutdoors]

So this is all custom stuff then?
And where are the body mounts/cushions/insulators that are supposed to be under the lift blocks?
The block needs to be moved rearward so it’s not touching the unreinforced section of body.

Looking at it again I guess the construct underneath is your bracing or framework for temporarily holding the body. How can you estimate fitment accurately when the body is not on the frame?
I don’t think you can unless your temporary framework is an exact duplicate of the original frame.

How are the door gaps?

I had this same fitment issue when the body lift was properly installed on the frame. I don't have photos during that point of the build, but the same issue applies. Door gaps are great. The bronco is rust free.

 

[BruiserOutdoors]

WH 2" body lift. Picture is of 3" puck for paint on a body cart only (wanted added room to work underneath so opted for a 3" puck). body cart was assembled for brand new body and all body mounts on mine fit, except this issue here

 

[DirtDonk]

Gotcha. Well if everything is straight elsewhere and the door openings are square, or if the doors are installed the gaps are equal, then I would put spacers under those two mounts equal to the gap size.
Then see where that puts you when you reassemble the fenders and hood.
At least in the meantime everything will be supported while you’re working on it. You’ll probably have to fine-tune everything again once it’s on the actual frame anyway. At least that’s been my experience in some cases.

As far as the puck being under the sheet metal in different places, you’re just gonna have to move it back so that it’s under the actual body mount location rather than on a bendable lip of metal.
Tilt it back so it’s just under the mount plate. Or if it won’t tilt grind a flat into the round so that it’s not under the lip.

 

[BruiserOutdoors]

Gotcha. Well if everything is straight elsewhere and the door openings are square, or if the doors are installed the gaps are equal, then I would put spacers under those two mounts equal to the gap size.
Then see where that puts you when you reassemble the fenders and hood.
At least in the meantime everything will be supported while you’re working on it. You’ll probably have to fine-tune everything again once it’s on the actual frame anyway. At least that’s been my experience in some cases.

As far as the puck being under the sheet metal in different places, you’re just gonna have to move it back so that it’s under the actual body mount location rather than on a bendable lip of metal.
Tilt it back so it’s just under the mount plate. Or if it won’t tilt grind a flat into the round so that it’s not under the lip.

it doesn't seem to be able to tilt out of the way enough, this is about as good as I could get it. Created this thread to see if this has happened to others before and if grinding or cutting would be the next move.

 

[DirtDonk]

Waiting to see what other experiences have been.
I personally never run into that, so I don’t have any direct information.

Good luck!

 

[Oldtimer]

Just went out and looked at my Bronco.
There is no gap between core support and core support mounting bracket.
May have to drill out spot welds, adjust, and reweld the your new support brackets?

 

[BruiserOutdoors]

Just went out and looked at my Bronco.
There is no gap between core support and core support mounting bracket.
May have to drill out spot welds, adjust, and reweld the your new support brackets?

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awesome point/find. thank you for commenting. This is what happens when you hire a restoration shop that isnt extremely familiar with broncos.....man they messed up left and right.