Body mount bolts

[triracer67]

I want to replace body mount bushings, but, impact driver stripped the heads. Best, and easiest next step? I was thinking of cutting, or drill the heads off. Will the the bolts dropped out then? Thanks in advance.

 

[DirtDonk]

No, they won't. They're threaded into the clamping retainers ("washers") which are crimped/rusted together.
You're in kind of a pickle where you either need to figure out a way to grasp the head to remove the bolt, or you will have to resort to the reciprocating saw or cutting torch to cut the mounts in half under the body. Which is extremely awkward on some of the mounts.

I'm sure there have been others in your situation, so maybe they have a better solution. But some of the same rules apply whether you got the bolts out or not. Sometimes the clamshell setup won't part ways until they are cut.
In the case of the bolts removed though, at least you can drill up from the bottom and release the crimp. But with the bolt in place, you're limited to sawing it in half I think.

Paul

 

[DirtDonk]

I forgot your other option. If it's an option that is...
You can grind off the heads and lift the body right off the frame. This is great if you're removing the body anyway, but if all you wanted to do was replace the insulators then it's a crap-ton more work.

You can get a good idea of how they're constructed by checking out the pic in ngsd's thread right now titled "Am I measuring this lift correctly" (https://classicbroncos.com/forums/showthread.php?t=299410) and see one of the entire mount assemblies still on the frame (sans bolts of course) in pic #3 I think it is.

Paul

 

[SHX669]

I used a sawzall/reciprocating saw - on my '68 I had to cut some of the bolts twice - into 3 pieces to drive em out .

 

[backpain]

Bosch has a recip blade made for cast iron that works well. There will be places you can cut the bolt and others where you will need to cut through the rubber, the steel sleeve and the bolt all in one cut. Buy a 6 pack of the blades. Get long enough ones that you can wear down the teeth in a few spots before throwing out the blade. Plan to use a few blades. They are cheap enough to save time/headache. I can find pics or details if needed. I still have some left over from doing this more than 10 yrs ago.

The PC swivel and pivot recip saw makes a big difference also.

Edit: blades are Bosch, 10”, 9/12 tpi, BiM, “Heavy Duty”. There is probably something better now, but these combo/muti-use blades with variable teeth handle the combination of materials well. Other choices: Maybe something made for cast iron plumbing. Cutting through the mounts will probably gum up something finer toothed made only for hardened steel. Check Milwaukee also.

 

[Pa PITT]

.. I lost. I worked about 2 weeks &gave up on mine.
I never got mine all apart. I had a very strong young 35 year old young man . He & I worked a lot of hours . & I believe we had 2 that we just couldn't get off.
.... I had lot of air . & WE HAD 3/4 DRIVE SOCKET SETUP. & cheater pips for the Break over bar. I used a sawzall . & I even tied to burn them out with my cutting torch. Guys on here were really laughing at me not being able to get them apart..
SO I ENDED UP PUTTING ALL THE OLD FLAT stock pucks back in place & Then adding my 1 inch new pucks back in place & I went & bought new grade 8 bolts . So I called mine a one & one half inch lift. & I don't believe I had to replace every bolt .
....
..... Oh & I Gave up on burning them out as It looked like I was about to burn my Bronco to the ground ..
... SO GOOD LUCK ...

 

[ransil]

one of the Bronco jobs I totally hate to do.
its usually 8 hour job of cussing and breaking sawzall blades and having way more tools out than should be needed.