Body Panel adhesive

[bax]

I have never glued a body panel on.I have read that others have used the glue. Anyone know if the glue needs to be metal to metal? Do you thing it is asking too much of the glue to try using it on a window hinge? I sure wish all the broncos had the bolt on windshield frame.

 

[Pcparas]

I used the 3M body panel glue on the rear quarters were I couldn't spot weld. The glue seems to hold just fine. I did do a few spot welds on the sides of the panels were I could (figured for heavy duty off roading at least a few welds were needed) but prior to the welds the panel was locked in place. I figure it would be just fine with out the welds.

 

[bmc69]

I used the 3M body panel glue on the rear quarters were I couldn't spot weld. The glue seems to hold just fine. I did do a few spot welds on the sides of the panels were I could (figured for heavy duty off roading at least a few welds were needed) but prior to the welds the panel was locked in place. I figure it would be just fine with out the welds.

Chuck?...that you?

 

[patkelley]

I have used FUSOR products (www.lord.com) to bond the following on both street and track vehicles:
metal to metal
metal to carbon fiber
fiberglass to carbon

This stuff works, period. The only concern that I had with it is stability at high temps. Most 2-part adhesives like these are epxoy-based and typically break down at 150-180 deg F, which could be an issue.

 

[73azbronco]

Is that an M3?

 

[patkelley]

Yes - 2004. Decided the steel/glass sunroof was too heavy...;D

 

[Pcparas]

Chuck?...that you?

bmc69 it's Chuck's son Gus.

 

[73azbronco]

justr curious, was the original factory BMW panel glued in or welded? I had a 2002 e46 M3 and always hated the space the roof window took up and wondered about going carbon fiber.

 

[JIMS74]

I sure wish all the broncos had the bolt on windshield frame.

I am installing a s/s windshield frame from toms. I made it bolt on by welding backing strips out of 1 1/4"x 1/8" flatbar with 1/4"-20 nuts welded to the underside of the strips. then fitted them to the cowl and welded in place. The 1/4-20 holes were countersunk for ftat head s/s screws.

 

[bmc69]

bmc69 it's Chuck's son Gus.

Holy cow! You know..I guessed that after I posted and then suddenly realized how dadgummed old I really am!;D I rememnber when you was born like it was yesterday.

Yr old man tell you that I have the largest collection of EB parts and pieces in MD? No..probably not..since the last time he stopped by it was only about half the size it is now. Is his Alzheimer's as bad as mine? Anyways..you need anything, just ask.

And then there is the MEB Roundup at Gore that you must, of course, attend..with the old man in tow, of course.

 

[trailpsycho]

I have never glued a body panel on.I have read that others have used the glue. Anyone know if the glue needs to be metal to metal? Do you thing it is asking too much of the glue to try using it on a window hinge? I sure wish all the broncos had the bolt on windshield frame.

Bax-

I did exactly this last jan/feb. The BPA was 3M. I was unsure, so I used 1/4 SS rivets to act as insurance. I will chack my Pc and see if I can find the pics. Our power is out so no router.

Good luck.

John

 

[trailpsycho]

Powers back, so here are some pics. I dont have any pics mid application...simply b/c the adhesive cures fairly quickly. What you cant see...after applying a thick coat to the windshield frame, I used some thin SS washers (which received a coat of adhesive on both sides) between the hinge and frame. The rivets mashed out the excess, which was wiped down with solvent to achieve what you see in the first several pics. The reason for the washers was to maintain a consistent film thickness of the BPA. I was told by the paint rep that film thickness (of 1-4 mil) was necessary to achieve a good bond. He said what I didnt want to do was to use the rivets and then squeezed it all out...so I came up with the thin washers-idea, which he thought was OK.

The frame/hinge application was allowed to cure overnight, then the cowl and hinge were cleaned well with sovent (this is key) and an excess of BPA was applied to the cowl, washers inserted (coated) then the frame/hinge was applied and the rivets installed. Again, excess adhesive was removed and the whole shebang was allowed to cure. Its been strong and no real problems.

The other thing I was told was to scuff the surfaces well with coarse grit prior to applicaton of the adhesive to provide optimal 'tooth'.

The hinge came from JBFab with one set of holes and corresponding cleearance holes. I drilled the other side for mounting, but didnt drill the opposite face to clearance for the heads of the rivets...didnt think it would be necessary in the test fit. After it all cured, I could tell this was a problem...especially with the thick gasket in there. So, I had to come back with a carbide ball to clearance for the cowl's rivet heads (on the frame face)...you can kind of tell in the last pic. Didnt take too long.

The body shop then repainted the adjacent areas while they were repainting some other stuff. Turned out pretty decent.

After a year plus, no problems. I would advise that you use more adhesive than you believe you will need...better to have to clean off the excess than not have enough to fill the entire area.

 

[trailpsycho]

A few more pics.

If you can, removal of the dash would allow you to seal from the bottom all of the rivets. Since I was already roadworthy and wired, I did not. I have seen a leak here and there. I am unsure if it is coming from the riveted face of the cowl--which I doubt since it was so heavily coated in BPA. Its more likely that its coming from the fresh air inlet (leak is on Dr side only), which I havent sealed with weatherstrip adhesive...or anything else.

Good luck with your install. Let me know if you have any questions.

John

 

[stupidboy]

I made my windshield hinge bolt on to both surfaces then polished the crap out of the hinge.

 

[bax]

Thanks for the input guys. I may make it so it unbolts

 

[beaux312]

We glue panels on all the time. But on panels that have a vertical surface that can be hit by another car, we weld those up so if it is hit the panel wont peal off. But we do roof panels,door skins and 1/4s(just weld up the vertical parts). Corvettes, most of the unibody is glued together, that might put your mind at ease. Just grind both sides that are going to be bonded together.

 

[mavereq]

i used the 3m panel adhesive. you have to get their special gun so it cost about a hundred bucks out the door. the kit came with an extra mixing tube so when i want to use it again i can just take the old one off and replace it. the old one acts as the cap.

 

[bosshoff]

I've used SEM panel adhesive and their $70 gun. Keep in mind the products have a shelf life of a year or two.

 

[patkelley]

justr curious, was the original factory BMW panel glued in or welded? I had a 2002 e46 M3 and always hated the space the roof window took up and wondered about going carbon fiber.

Late reply - the original roof is spot welded. You may see the drilled out spot welds in the pics I posted.