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Bonding fiberglass scoop to metal hood

bigmuddy

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Anyone been successful long term with bonding a fiberglass scoop to a metal hood and not have it popoff or spider web under the paint?

I am looking at giving it a try but this would not be with the typical bronco hood scoops.

TIA
 

Eoth

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I’ve done it. Going on two years. Seems to have worked great.
 

Eoth

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Eoth can you provide tips on materials or techniques used?


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Well hold on... Might be talking two different things... I bonded a fiberglass scoop onto my metal hood using "body panel" epoxy adhesive...
 
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bigmuddy

bigmuddy

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I’m thinking about cutting up an old pro flow hood, just using the scoop part and bonding it to a metal hood. The hood was never square to begin with, not to mention flimsy. I don’t have the skills to repair correctly and square it up. As much work as it would take to fix it right, I think it would be cost prohibitive.


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Eoth

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My scoop was previously mounted and had holes and some damage around the edges from the rivets.... So I got some "safe-edge" and installed it around the edge and covered up all the issues. Then I just glued the whole thing down.. Fairly crude but worked perfectly...
 

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bigmuddy

bigmuddy

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Looks good. My issue is completely different. I really need to pull the trigger on a new proflow hood but damn the shipping is a killer! I saw where Summit has some weld on hood scoops but I’m not confident I can replicate something similar to the proflow scoop, that I will like..


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bigmuddy

bigmuddy

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Roger that. There are some good videos online about bonding fiberglass to metal. Some say yay, some nay!


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SteveL

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I have the scoop like eoth pictured and hate it. If you dive in mud or water it shoots straight into the carb. I working on going to a stock hood. Wh runs specials with free shipping or someti.es vendors will deliver big stuff to events
 
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bigmuddy

bigmuddy

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Thanks for the tip. I could probably pick one up from JBG in Michigan but so believe they drop ship the hoods from elsewhere?


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SteveL

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They may ship from the manufacturer but they probably have a few on hand for walk ins. Looking up top jbg has 10%off right now
 

661buster1963

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Feb 18, 2009
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292
If you grind the steel with an an aggressive grit(like 36) and don’t heat it up and grind the fiberglass to bond as well. Should get a decent vinyl ester resin at marine shop, vinyl esters have a better flexibility for bonding materials with dissimilar CTE and plan on a bonding area of at least 1” around the perimeter you can make it work. Wet out some chopped strand mat with catalyze vinyl ester and place in the bond area and place the scoop on it while wet and maybe have sheet metal screws every 2 inch around to hold it down till cured and then take the screws out it should work. Have everything planned well since the resin will cure in about 20 minutes so work efficient. Using some glass mat will reduce the resin in the bond and the resin is what will crack when no reinforcement is in it. We put steel fittings in fiberglass tanks all day long doing this. And steam cure them after installed and if properly done they hold great. Did my scoop and fender flares this way 20 years ago and everything is still in place
 
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bigmuddy

bigmuddy

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If you grind the steel with an an aggressive grit(like 36) and don’t heat it up and grind the fiberglass to bond as well. Should get a decent vinyl ester resin at marine shop, vinyl esters have a better flexibility for bonding materials with dissimilar CTE and plan on a bonding area of at least 1” around the perimeter you can make it work. Wet out some chopped strand mat with catalyze vinyl ester and place in the bond area and place the scoop on it while wet and maybe have sheet metal screws every 2 inch around to hold it down till cured and then take the screws out it should work. Have everything planned well since the resin will cure in about 20 minutes so work efficient. Using some glass mat will reduce the resin in the bond and the resin is what will crack when no reinforcement is in it. We put steel fittings in fiberglass tanks all day long doing this. And steam cure them after installed and if properly done they hold great. Did my scoop and fender flares this way 20 years ago and everything is still in place



Thanks 66. I saw something similar posted on a hotrod forum


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bamabaja

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May not be applicable to ur problem, but talking with professional body shop friend and he was singing praises of new adhesive used for Ford aluminum body panels. Good luck.
 
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