Bronco Builders I need advice

[pacebm]

I am gathering parts to rebuild my Bronco with a 5.8L, lift and axles. I plan to take it down to the frame and build it back. This will be a daily driver and offroad vehicle. Below is a list of the components and questions I have. Keep in mind I am a complete newb to fuel injection and all this computer stuff. This will be my first non-military truck build (I have done several M715s, M35s, and 1 M818 bobbed)

Going to buy:
5.8 Liter from 94-97 truck (roller engine)
Gt-40 Lighgtnin Lower
5.0HO 'used blown' 92 model for serpentine setup and upper
4R70W rebuilt Heavy duty
What floor shifter would you use for the 4R70W?
Any advice on injectors, etc. would be appreciated.
All new sensors and accessories
Painless wiring harness for entire vehicle and for fuel injecton
12" 2200 stall non lockup converter
What radiator, oil pan, electric fan, transmission cooler and hoses would work with this setup?
Computer A9L for stick shift and tweecer
Baumannator
Atlas Transfer case

I have:
CUCV 60 front and 14 bolt rear Should I go full width or standard Bronco and how much is the difference?
What gears and lockers would you suggest?
Hummer rims recentered with 37" tires

I have two inch body lift and I am willing to get a raised hood to clear the motor.
What lift size should I get for this setup? Also what headers will clear?

What am I missing? I buy and sell quite a bit of military surplus so that is the reason for the cucv axles. I also have a BC Broncos 23 gallon fuel tank and plan to use an external fuel pump. The truck has front and rear heavy bumpers and a 12k Warn Winch (I had one already).

I have an M715 and want to standardize the tire and wheel setup if I can so any advice on backspacing would be appreciated.

Generally the Bronco is in good shape with a couple of rust spots I have to fix while I have it torn apart.

 

[broncomitch]

I am gathering parts to rebuild my Bronco with a 5.8L, lift and axles. I plan to take it down to the frame and build it back. This will be a daily driver and offroad vehicle. Below is a list of the components and questions I have. Keep in mind I am a complete newb to fuel injection and all this computer stuff. This will be my first non-military truck build (I have done several M715s, M35s, and 1 M818 bobbed)

Going to buy:
5.8 Liter from 94-97 truck (roller engine)
Gt-40 Lighgtnin Lower
5.0HO 'used blown' 92 model for serpentine setup and upper
4R70W rebuilt Heavy duty
What floor shifter would you use for the 4R70W?
Any advice on injectors, etc. would be appreciated.
All new sensors and accessories
Painless wiring harness for entire vehicle and for fuel injecton
12" 2200 stall non lockup converter
What radiator, oil pan, electric fan, transmission cooler and hoses would work with this setup?
Computer A9L for stick shift and tweecer
Baumannator
Atlas Transfer case

I have:
CUCV 60 front and 14 bolt rear Should I go full width or standard Bronco and how much is the difference?
What gears and lockers would you suggest?
Hummer rims recentered with 37" tires

I have two inch body lift and I am willing to get a raised hood to clear the motor.
What lift size should I get for this setup? Also what headers will clear?

What am I missing? I buy and sell quite a bit of military surplus so that is the reason for the cucv axles. I also have a BC Broncos 23 gallon fuel tank and plan to use an external fuel pump. The truck has front and rear heavy bumpers and a 12k Warn Winch (I had one already).

I have an M715 and want to standardize the tire and wheel setup if I can so any advice on backspacing would be appreciated.

Generally the Bronco is in good shape with a couple of rust spots I have to fix while I have it torn apart.

37'' i would go with ether 4.88 or 5.13

i would say a 4.5 lift should be perfect.

Check out B.C.BRONCOS headers. there sweet and might fit perfect.


axles, thats a hard one. there are allot of pluses and negatives with both of them. I'm running full width axles and i love them to death. but thats up to you, check your city laws and check on fender flairs. might half to get a 4'' wide set from WH (witch are sweet BTW)

 

[pacebm]

Do I have the correct setup for the motor and transmission. I am split over the axle width as well.

 

[pacebm]

TTT Come on experts tell me what you think.

 

[kb6677]

No expert, but am running a windsor based full width rig with an Atlas
With that said, I will add a few points to ponder:
1. You have not told us what type of wheeling you do-Bmitch is from Utah with lots of high traction rocks(compared to here) so I understand his gear ratio rec. I wheel the southeast with a once a year trip to Moab. I am running 4.88s in three rigs with 40-42" tires. You said daily driver and you have an Atlas-I would not go deeper than 4.56 if you are staying with 37s. We need wheel speed down here to "bump" over slick mud covered rocks........ If you are out west with high traction rocks such as Moab, then sure, gear the heck out of it!!!!
2. You mentioned you have a 14 bolt rear-we refer to those as "tater plows"-with only a 37" tire you will drag/hang big time without some clearance/shaving work done to the 14 bolt. Search shaving a 14 bolt on Pirate-many threads on that one!!
3. As has been posted, check the tire coverage laws in your state(full width etc.) If you can "stick out" with the tires-full width all the way. You do have the option of running H1 mil. wheels, a tall skinny-like 12.5x38x16.5 and with that rim you will only be about an 1-2" each side wider than a stock eb. Sorry, can't remember for sure-not an issue in NC
4. I like my Lokar shifters alot-running three of them on different rigs -nostalgic, 18" on two and a 12" on one. If you want to get real fancy you can modify the gates so you can bump D/R without the button incase you need to reverse in a hurry on a ledge.................
Great parts list you have going-keep us posted
HTH

 

[broncomitch]

good points.

this your trans?
http://classicbroncos.com/tech/aode-4r70w-3-speed-automatic-transmission-guide

 

[4x4man514]

as far as gearing goes, in my opinion, i wouldnt go lower than 4;56 with 37s. thats what i had and it was a little on the low side with my 37s(for a daily driver). the overdrive tranny though will make it nice for a daily driver. i had a zf 5spd with od in mine.

 

[Steve83]

If you really plan to use this as a daily driver, I think you're going overboard, but it's your rig.

I'd use the original injectors, brackets, EEC, & wiring from the donor engine. If it's in reasonable shape, the accessories, too. I'd get the rear axle from a V8 4W-disk Explorer/Mountaineer with 3.55 L/S. I put the Griffin radiator & NAPA Mustang hoses on Frank's, and it's working fine as his ONLY vehicle.

 

[kb6677]

If you really plan to use this as a daily driver, I think you're going overboard, but it's your rig.

I'd use the original injectors, brackets, EEC, & wiring from the donor engine. If it's in reasonable shape, the accessories, too. I'd get the rear axle from a V8 4W-disk Explorer/Mountaineer with 3.55 L/S. I put the Griffin radiator & NAPA Mustang hoses on Frank's, and it's working fine as his ONLY vehicle.

Did I read this correct-"get the rear axle from a V8 Exploder" you know that is an 8.8? With all the upgrade components for the 9" inc. a host of disc brake conversions, axle upgrades and r&p's all reasonable $$ I find that hard to believe unless it will never see more than a dirt/gravel road. Then I still would be concerned about breaking an axle with the 37's he has posted about running on the street with the 351 engine.
I have a good friend who broke a stock axle just spinning his 35's on dry pavement.............................
To each his own........

 

[Steve83]

The 9" had that rep just because it's been around so long. Almost everyone agrees now that the 8.8" is actually a little stronger, comparing STOCK axles. So whatever you can do to beef a 9" can also be done to an 8.8", and the 8.8 will still be stronger. The 8.8 was used in some Expeditions, and in the Marauder, and in the SC Mustang, so it can handle a 3500lb 30-year-old truck. I've towed ridiculous stuff with my 8.8, like a Peterbilt dump truck. It'll do more than you think.

 

[mustangtoby]

X2 on the 8.8. All the mustang guys love this thing, very strong from the factory. That being said, the guys who go for BIG hp usually go to the 9".

If your familiar with the 8.8, the design is almost identical to any of the dana stuff.

 

[mavereq]

if you go with an 8.8, make sure you either use c-clip eliminators or have 9" end housings welded on. i went with the 9" ends and 33 spline axles on my drag car.

 

[br0nc0xrapt0r]

A 60 and 14 bolt is a great setup but I wouldn't go any lower than 4.56 gears. Your going to need wild horses silverback flares and a lot of backspacing on 17 inch rims to go full width if it's going to be street driven a lot.