Bronco leans. Two questions.

[Carl]

I know the whole theory behind the "Bronco Lean" and I know what needs to be done to fix it. I know that the radius arms need to be parallel to eachother.

So once again I have the front axle disconnected with the exception of the drag link. It is still connected at the axle and the pitman arm. The only reason it is still connected is because I don't know how to separate it from the pitman arm. I want to separate it this time because I left them together last time while installing the c-bushings and radius arm caps and the Bronco still leaned.

Someone here (70Steve, I think) told me to use two big hammers. I have two large sledge hammers. I think he said to hold one hammer against the bottom of the pitman arm and hit the top of the pitman arm with the other hammer. Somehow this is supposed to release the drag link ball joint. I tried this for about ten minutes to no avail.

My two questions:

1) Does the drag link NEED to be disconnected in order to level out the radius arms correctly? I can't see why it would make any difference as long as the axle is level while installing the radius arm caps, which it is.

2) If the drag link NEEDS to be disconnected at the pitman arm, how do I disconnect it? If there is a tool that would make it easier, please let me know.

 

[ransil]

Get a big pry bar and put pressure on the drag link, then wack the side of the pitman arm. 2 people are better that 1 for this and putting the nut on loose keeps injury down.

 

[deltarat]

Get a big pry bar and put pressure on the drag link, then wack the side of the pitman arm. 2 people are better that 1 for this and putting the nut on loose keeps injury down.

some times it works without the pry bar.

 

[Carl]

Ok now you guys got me thinking. I searched for the old thread and it was 70_Steve who suggested using the big hammers. Like you Ransil, he said to hit the SIDE of the pitman arm. I still don't think its going to work, but I'll try it anyway.

 

[NoJoe]

If you have a Auto Zone near you they let you borrow tools, call them and ask for a pickle fork, Joe.

 

[67u13]

body bushings can also be a culprit. Check with a measuring tape the distance between the frame and the body and make sure both sides are the same.

 

[Carl]

If you have a Auto Zone near you they let you borrow tools, call them and ask for a pickle fork, Joe.

Thanks, but I already have a pickle fork. I want to remove the drag link without destroying the ball joint.

 

[Carl]

body bushings can also be a culprit. Check with a measuring tape the distance between the frame and the body and make sure both sides are the same.

That's interesting. I never thought about that. I'll be sure to check them.

 

[buckedupbronc]

I used a picle fork, without damaging my joints

 

[Triggerman]

I had "the lean" before I put the lift on my 77. I put Chucks arms and 2.5 coils on the front first (before I did the rear leaves) and still had the exact amount of lean! Put on the new rear 11 pack leaves and no more lean. I had never heard of this before but apparently rear leaves can do the lean as well %) .

 

[Carl]

Alright, I tried hitting the side of the pitman arm and it didn't work so I disconnected the drag link at the lower connection steering linkage.

Anyway, I cleaned up the radius arms and the axle where the c-bushings ride and used a lot of grease on the c-bushings. I tightened the radius arm caps down making sure they were level. I actually put a small level on the axle and attached a longer level across the radius arms. So I know they are level. I put everything back together and it is still leans the same as before, about 3/4" lower on the drivers side.

I guess I can either live with it or I can intentionally set the passenger side radius arm lower than the drivers side radius arm to level it out. Maybe like Tiggerman said it could be the rear suspension that is causing the lean. I already installed new 11 pack leaf springs though.