77-302
Full Member
My Winter projects always seem to get put off until the threat of spring starts to come.
I also like to take my Boys to Bronco Rama so I knew I needed to get going.
I started a list of must haves in the fall and it grew slightly but I figured I could get it all done before May 2nd.
Assuming I worked at a slow pace through the winter.
Well the reality set in around the end of February that I hadn’t started a thing…
In summary it took about 2.5 months since my work window was about 1.5 hours a night.
After the kids were in bed around 8:30-9PM and occasionally on weekends when my wife let me do some garage work.
Instead of daily/weekly updates I decided to put it all in one update..So here is a write up of what I did….
#1 Fix aux tank sender/gauge issue
Last year I got my Aux tank up and working after I decided it was silly to have one and not use it.
Being a 1977 mine is plastic and I always use it first (which doesn’t take long to use up 8 gallons!)
I had replaced the sender connector pigtail and sender itself but it still didn’t work on the dash.
After some investigating I found the best solution…wire wasn’t connected to the switch!
Pulled the switch out and rotated the bezel so the switch lands on Main/Aux correctly.
I was able to see all this clearly since I had my driver side vent tool box out for gasket installation.
I keep a tow strap in there for now. But with a gasket finally installed (and screws) I’m hoping that it won’t leak to the drivers floor board anymore.
Anyway, pulling this out gives you pretty good access/views behind the dash which I’ll remember when I’m finally ready to pull out the speedo.
#2 Fix Neutral safety switch
Thought I had a wiring issue since the neutral safety switch did its job by not allowing the engine to start in gear.
But after checking all the wires, I discovered the source of my problem WAS the Neutral safety switch by jumping the wires at the 4 pin connector under the hood.
Bought a Scott Drake unit from JBG.
It was a tight fit over the shifter shaft, I aligned the notch but I still had to carefully draw it on with bolts.
Adjusted with the drill bit method.
Now have back up lights!!
#2a Bought these LED 1156’s and WOW are they bright!!! $16.99 on Amazon.
They really help our little back up light lenses stand out.
http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00F23BNUG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
#3 New sounds system.
Researched lots of options, door speakers, clamp on cage speakers, wiper cover speakers…
Custom enclosures in the rear wheel wells.... Decided I didn’t have the money or more importantly the TIME to get super elaborate.
So I went this route, especially since it keeps the door open (ha!) for future removable hinges.
http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BF6HX9E/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BF6HWF4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_663VERSAPD/Select-Increments-Versa-Pods.html
http://www.broncohut.com/Home/tabid/39/ProductID/1368/Default.aspx#.VT-YdiFViko
Rear was straight forward, pulled off seat cushion, drilled holes and mounted the pods, pulled wires through and screwed in speakers.
Front was more involved…
Bought 3M Velcro on Amazon. ( recommended for install)
http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B007OXK4C0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I thought it was hokey but it actually worked very well (almost too well…cause getting them out requires a LOT of force)
Drivers side required minor trimming to the fiberglass pod, had to move over E-brake dash bolt only, and move the headlight floor switch.
Ebrake was simple, just unbolt from under dash, move over 2” (minor force required) and drill a new hole, I found a nut and lock washer and it was done.
The only thing I missed was that during this process I removed my AC vent and I got upset with myself because it didn’t occur to me until I was nearly done, that the vent would not be able to screw into its original location…Due to the Ebrake move.
I hate drilling more holes in this poor girl but I didn’t have a choice so two holes were drilled and driver’s side was done.
Now to the passenger side…..
I have AC, so the Vintage air system sits behind the dash in the passenger side foot well…
I was told that the speaker pod wouldn’t be an issue with a vintage Air system… well that is kind of true.
In the sense that it will still go in after you cut/trim it down to the point it barely resembles its former self.
My issue was twofold. The blower motor housing interfered with the pod about 1” back on the slope of the speaker mount face and also in the bolts that adapt the fresh air vent to the blower intake.
Still after some trimming, swearing, pushing the whole vintage air system about ½” towards the driver’s side and itchy hands from handling the fiberglass…. they were in.
I found it easiest to remove the glove box insert so I could see what was going on and also route the speaker wires away from everything.
While I had everything apart I also fixed my antenna which was cobbled together.
Now I have all the stations I want. I also found a disconnected vacuum line from the vintage air system and holy crap I now have defrost!!!
(Scratch that future project off the list!)
Overall I’m happy with the system, you can’t even tell it’s there which is good for security but also keeping the vintage look of the truck.
No more Walmart 6X9 grey carpet boxes taking up critical rear storage space and only hearing sound in your right ear from the dash speaker.
The sound is OK, it has plenty of volume and clarity but not a ton of bass. I listen to rock/country so I wasn’t expecting much from two 5.25” and two 4” speakers anyway but at least it’s an improvement from before. If I ever get adventurous I can always add a small sub. They are making them smaller and smaller with lower profiles and even less air space requirements. I think a down-firing box that will slip under the back seat will be the solution for the future. For now I’ll just enjoy having STEREO speakers.
#4 Fix tick noise heard in 4wd.
I don’t get to drive my truck off road as much as I’d like but last summer and again in the snow I could hear this ticking/clicking noise while in 4H.
I started poking around under the truck and when I grabbed the front driveshaft I could wiggle it at the plunging joint.
I suspected this was the issue as the Driveshaft appeared original in my 77.
I took it up to JBG where we attempted to replace the front slip yoke.
Even with a new slip yoke there was still a lot of wobble/slop in the joint.
So a new Front DS was purchased and the noise is gone…
I’m glad too because the next step was to look at the knuckles…
#5 D20 popping into neutral during acceleration.
Struggled to take out transfer case.
Some of you may have read my thread here http://classicbroncos.com/forums/showthread.php?t=251867
For those that did, thanks for the help diagnosing the issue.
For those that didn’t here is a shorter recap.
As everyone said, the driver’s side top two bolts are the worst, stubby and a very fine tooth ratcheting box wrench saved the day.
Once apart, I couldn’t move it back far enough to disengage from trans spline, the shifter was getting hung up in the tunnel.
For me the issue was finally solved by putting tcase in 4Low.
After seeking advice from the Bronco community, I determined I needed to replace high speed gear, and the old, “while you’re in there” I also did the bearing, O-ring gaskets and seals for the input shaft.
Previous owner used RTV, to seal threads, Used way too much.
Big globs/chunks were everywhere. I used Permatex thread sealer and had no leaks.
As recommended I took care to remove snap ring, all came apart pretty easy.
Big needle bearing stayed in place right up until the time I was rotating the t-case to install the input shaft.
Dammit! So some heavy grease and some picks I was able to get all 13 pieces back in their home.
Back in with new fasteners for cross member and new bushing mounts also put new bushings in with a snubber.
Had the truck back and running and while I chased the trans fluid yo-yo with the dipstick hash marks on the C4, I noticed my 1 drip per 5min leak of coolant from last fall had now changed to a 1 drip per 30 seconds….
Out comes the radiator… local guy strips, pressure tests, flushes, fixes and paints for $50 ….
Radiator back in now I could take my test drive.
Test drove and it started a similar but new symptom.
Now it went into neutral on coast… WTF!!!!!!
Sought the community advice again and got lots of good suggestions but very few involved keeping the t-case in the truck.
So out it comes again…
This time I was a little more prepared….. and it took much less time.
I even took the time to suction out about 2.5-3 quarts of trans fluid through the cooler line and dipstick tube so that I wouldn’t wear it when I separated the trans and adaptor.
Tcase on bench and I was able to recreate my issue.
Found the culprit… Shifter fork was loose… flopping around on the shift rail.
It showed some wear but I didn’t think it was too severe so I used it again.
The loose shift fork allowed the high speed gear to disengage from the rear while still indicating 2H on the J-shifter.
The allen/lock screw was still tight enough to allow shifts but not tight enough to hold the gear in during deceleration.
To add insult to injury the J-shifter was toast…just too worn out for me to want to fix.
So off to JBG for a T-case rebuild kit (I’ve got it out anyway) and a new J-shifter.
I considered the twin stick but I just didn’t want to cut more flooring, and the truck isn’t a crawler.
I did find that the JBG shifter will actually allow a front High dig if you want.
The detents/pill in the stock shift rails prevent a rear high front low or vice versa, so the redundant safety mechanism from the stock shifter isn’t needed.
With the JBG unit if you are in T-case Neutral you can move right and forward and select Front High while the rear is in neutral…
Kind of makes it like a Big J and little j shifter.
I’m happy with that….
Taking the Tcase apart was pretty straight forward thanks to all the links
http://wt4x4.net/tech/twinstick.htm
http://classicbroncos.com/forums/showthread.php?t=160359
http://classicbroncos.com/forums/showthread.php?t=207537&highlight=Dana+20
https://www.novak-adapt.com/knowledge/dana_20_rebuild_guide.htm
Once apart and cleaned up every surface I could with parts cleaner and a wire brush on my air tool.
For the hard to reach places I used a red scotch bright pad… I prepped with surface prep…
I went as far as taped all the surfaces and took a wire wheel to all the fasteners and pushed them into cardboard so I could paint the heads.
I picked up a can of Rustoleum Rust reformer (converter) and some As Cast VHT engine block paint.
It was a higher gloss than I expected but it turned out pretty good.
Voilà
I know everyone loves pictures....
Also, I did a deep dive google research on the oil to use in the T-case.
Factory recommendations, Forum recommendations etc etc….
Found out some pretty good info on the GL-Ratings for current oil.
Also some test results for common oils used and their reactions to yellow metals (bronze, brass, copper).
Oil info
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2554764
http://www.widman.biz/uploads/Transaxle_oil.pdf
Went with Valvoline 80/90 performance oil.
I woke up (literally) the night I put the T-case back in….at 2AM with the harsh realization that I made a mistake…
During the Permatex spray gasket sealer install I had stuffed some paper towel into the trans to prevent fluid from contaminating the sealing surface while I installed the gaskets.
As many of you know holding the T-case/adapter over your head while trying to engage the spline on the trans and thread the shifter into the hole in the tunnel is stressful enough. I had a helper in the cab but totally forgot the paper towel until 2AM waking up in a panic.
So I’m left with two options… pull it all back out to get in there or pull the pan off the trans and hope I can reach with some needle nose pliers.
So…. I figured a trans service was cheap insurance vs taking the t-case out yet again…
Off to Oreilly’s to get a filter/gasket and more Type F fluid.
Ended up having to pull the valve body out but I Got it!
And Way less work than pulling out the Tcase again…
All back together, filled with fluid, driving around the neighborhood and she won’t shift out of 1st gear.
To top it off the pedal feels funny… Poked around and swore some more at the thought of having to pull Trans pan out again but didn’t give up…Found the issue was the kick down lever, for some reason it was clocked the wrong way…
Once adjusted everything is working great.
Trans is shifting, T-case is staying in gear and the T-case shifts into all positions…Problem is solved.
No leaks.
#6 Put in quiet tailgate hinges
Pretty straight forward here.
I did hit the bolts a few days in advance with some penetrating oil.
And I did scratch the bottom of the tailgate on the larger bolt heads from my plate bumper…
Good thing she’s not a show car!
After I clean her up on Friday I'll be Off to Bronco Rama… with both tanks working/registering on gage, back up lights, sounds system rocking, T-case/Transmission/driveline in order oh and lastly a few less rattles thanks to the tailgate hinges.
See you guys on Saturday!
I also like to take my Boys to Bronco Rama so I knew I needed to get going.
I started a list of must haves in the fall and it grew slightly but I figured I could get it all done before May 2nd.
Assuming I worked at a slow pace through the winter.
Well the reality set in around the end of February that I hadn’t started a thing…
In summary it took about 2.5 months since my work window was about 1.5 hours a night.
After the kids were in bed around 8:30-9PM and occasionally on weekends when my wife let me do some garage work.
Instead of daily/weekly updates I decided to put it all in one update..So here is a write up of what I did….
#1 Fix aux tank sender/gauge issue
Last year I got my Aux tank up and working after I decided it was silly to have one and not use it.
Being a 1977 mine is plastic and I always use it first (which doesn’t take long to use up 8 gallons!)
I had replaced the sender connector pigtail and sender itself but it still didn’t work on the dash.
After some investigating I found the best solution…wire wasn’t connected to the switch!
Pulled the switch out and rotated the bezel so the switch lands on Main/Aux correctly.
I was able to see all this clearly since I had my driver side vent tool box out for gasket installation.
I keep a tow strap in there for now. But with a gasket finally installed (and screws) I’m hoping that it won’t leak to the drivers floor board anymore.
Anyway, pulling this out gives you pretty good access/views behind the dash which I’ll remember when I’m finally ready to pull out the speedo.
#2 Fix Neutral safety switch
Thought I had a wiring issue since the neutral safety switch did its job by not allowing the engine to start in gear.
But after checking all the wires, I discovered the source of my problem WAS the Neutral safety switch by jumping the wires at the 4 pin connector under the hood.
Bought a Scott Drake unit from JBG.
It was a tight fit over the shifter shaft, I aligned the notch but I still had to carefully draw it on with bolts.
Adjusted with the drill bit method.
Now have back up lights!!
#2a Bought these LED 1156’s and WOW are they bright!!! $16.99 on Amazon.
They really help our little back up light lenses stand out.
http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00F23BNUG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
#3 New sounds system.
Researched lots of options, door speakers, clamp on cage speakers, wiper cover speakers…
Custom enclosures in the rear wheel wells.... Decided I didn’t have the money or more importantly the TIME to get super elaborate.
So I went this route, especially since it keeps the door open (ha!) for future removable hinges.
http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BF6HX9E/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BF6HWF4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_663VERSAPD/Select-Increments-Versa-Pods.html
http://www.broncohut.com/Home/tabid/39/ProductID/1368/Default.aspx#.VT-YdiFViko
Rear was straight forward, pulled off seat cushion, drilled holes and mounted the pods, pulled wires through and screwed in speakers.
Front was more involved…
Bought 3M Velcro on Amazon. ( recommended for install)
http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B007OXK4C0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I thought it was hokey but it actually worked very well (almost too well…cause getting them out requires a LOT of force)
Drivers side required minor trimming to the fiberglass pod, had to move over E-brake dash bolt only, and move the headlight floor switch.
Ebrake was simple, just unbolt from under dash, move over 2” (minor force required) and drill a new hole, I found a nut and lock washer and it was done.
The only thing I missed was that during this process I removed my AC vent and I got upset with myself because it didn’t occur to me until I was nearly done, that the vent would not be able to screw into its original location…Due to the Ebrake move.
I hate drilling more holes in this poor girl but I didn’t have a choice so two holes were drilled and driver’s side was done.
Now to the passenger side…..
I have AC, so the Vintage air system sits behind the dash in the passenger side foot well…
I was told that the speaker pod wouldn’t be an issue with a vintage Air system… well that is kind of true.
In the sense that it will still go in after you cut/trim it down to the point it barely resembles its former self.
My issue was twofold. The blower motor housing interfered with the pod about 1” back on the slope of the speaker mount face and also in the bolts that adapt the fresh air vent to the blower intake.
Still after some trimming, swearing, pushing the whole vintage air system about ½” towards the driver’s side and itchy hands from handling the fiberglass…. they were in.
I found it easiest to remove the glove box insert so I could see what was going on and also route the speaker wires away from everything.
While I had everything apart I also fixed my antenna which was cobbled together.
Now I have all the stations I want. I also found a disconnected vacuum line from the vintage air system and holy crap I now have defrost!!!
(Scratch that future project off the list!)
Overall I’m happy with the system, you can’t even tell it’s there which is good for security but also keeping the vintage look of the truck.
No more Walmart 6X9 grey carpet boxes taking up critical rear storage space and only hearing sound in your right ear from the dash speaker.
The sound is OK, it has plenty of volume and clarity but not a ton of bass. I listen to rock/country so I wasn’t expecting much from two 5.25” and two 4” speakers anyway but at least it’s an improvement from before. If I ever get adventurous I can always add a small sub. They are making them smaller and smaller with lower profiles and even less air space requirements. I think a down-firing box that will slip under the back seat will be the solution for the future. For now I’ll just enjoy having STEREO speakers.
#4 Fix tick noise heard in 4wd.
I don’t get to drive my truck off road as much as I’d like but last summer and again in the snow I could hear this ticking/clicking noise while in 4H.
I started poking around under the truck and when I grabbed the front driveshaft I could wiggle it at the plunging joint.
I suspected this was the issue as the Driveshaft appeared original in my 77.
I took it up to JBG where we attempted to replace the front slip yoke.
Even with a new slip yoke there was still a lot of wobble/slop in the joint.
So a new Front DS was purchased and the noise is gone…
I’m glad too because the next step was to look at the knuckles…
#5 D20 popping into neutral during acceleration.
Struggled to take out transfer case.
Some of you may have read my thread here http://classicbroncos.com/forums/showthread.php?t=251867
For those that did, thanks for the help diagnosing the issue.
For those that didn’t here is a shorter recap.
As everyone said, the driver’s side top two bolts are the worst, stubby and a very fine tooth ratcheting box wrench saved the day.
Once apart, I couldn’t move it back far enough to disengage from trans spline, the shifter was getting hung up in the tunnel.
For me the issue was finally solved by putting tcase in 4Low.
After seeking advice from the Bronco community, I determined I needed to replace high speed gear, and the old, “while you’re in there” I also did the bearing, O-ring gaskets and seals for the input shaft.
Previous owner used RTV, to seal threads, Used way too much.
Big globs/chunks were everywhere. I used Permatex thread sealer and had no leaks.
As recommended I took care to remove snap ring, all came apart pretty easy.
Big needle bearing stayed in place right up until the time I was rotating the t-case to install the input shaft.
Dammit! So some heavy grease and some picks I was able to get all 13 pieces back in their home.
Back in with new fasteners for cross member and new bushing mounts also put new bushings in with a snubber.
Had the truck back and running and while I chased the trans fluid yo-yo with the dipstick hash marks on the C4, I noticed my 1 drip per 5min leak of coolant from last fall had now changed to a 1 drip per 30 seconds….
Out comes the radiator… local guy strips, pressure tests, flushes, fixes and paints for $50 ….
Radiator back in now I could take my test drive.
Test drove and it started a similar but new symptom.
Now it went into neutral on coast… WTF!!!!!!
Sought the community advice again and got lots of good suggestions but very few involved keeping the t-case in the truck.
So out it comes again…
This time I was a little more prepared….. and it took much less time.
I even took the time to suction out about 2.5-3 quarts of trans fluid through the cooler line and dipstick tube so that I wouldn’t wear it when I separated the trans and adaptor.
Tcase on bench and I was able to recreate my issue.
Found the culprit… Shifter fork was loose… flopping around on the shift rail.
It showed some wear but I didn’t think it was too severe so I used it again.
The loose shift fork allowed the high speed gear to disengage from the rear while still indicating 2H on the J-shifter.
The allen/lock screw was still tight enough to allow shifts but not tight enough to hold the gear in during deceleration.
To add insult to injury the J-shifter was toast…just too worn out for me to want to fix.
So off to JBG for a T-case rebuild kit (I’ve got it out anyway) and a new J-shifter.
I considered the twin stick but I just didn’t want to cut more flooring, and the truck isn’t a crawler.
I did find that the JBG shifter will actually allow a front High dig if you want.
The detents/pill in the stock shift rails prevent a rear high front low or vice versa, so the redundant safety mechanism from the stock shifter isn’t needed.
With the JBG unit if you are in T-case Neutral you can move right and forward and select Front High while the rear is in neutral…
Kind of makes it like a Big J and little j shifter.
I’m happy with that….
Taking the Tcase apart was pretty straight forward thanks to all the links
http://wt4x4.net/tech/twinstick.htm
http://classicbroncos.com/forums/showthread.php?t=160359
http://classicbroncos.com/forums/showthread.php?t=207537&highlight=Dana+20
https://www.novak-adapt.com/knowledge/dana_20_rebuild_guide.htm
Once apart and cleaned up every surface I could with parts cleaner and a wire brush on my air tool.
For the hard to reach places I used a red scotch bright pad… I prepped with surface prep…
I went as far as taped all the surfaces and took a wire wheel to all the fasteners and pushed them into cardboard so I could paint the heads.
I picked up a can of Rustoleum Rust reformer (converter) and some As Cast VHT engine block paint.
It was a higher gloss than I expected but it turned out pretty good.
Voilà
I know everyone loves pictures....
Also, I did a deep dive google research on the oil to use in the T-case.
Factory recommendations, Forum recommendations etc etc….
Found out some pretty good info on the GL-Ratings for current oil.
Also some test results for common oils used and their reactions to yellow metals (bronze, brass, copper).
Oil info
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2554764
http://www.widman.biz/uploads/Transaxle_oil.pdf
Went with Valvoline 80/90 performance oil.
I woke up (literally) the night I put the T-case back in….at 2AM with the harsh realization that I made a mistake…
During the Permatex spray gasket sealer install I had stuffed some paper towel into the trans to prevent fluid from contaminating the sealing surface while I installed the gaskets.
As many of you know holding the T-case/adapter over your head while trying to engage the spline on the trans and thread the shifter into the hole in the tunnel is stressful enough. I had a helper in the cab but totally forgot the paper towel until 2AM waking up in a panic.
So I’m left with two options… pull it all back out to get in there or pull the pan off the trans and hope I can reach with some needle nose pliers.
So…. I figured a trans service was cheap insurance vs taking the t-case out yet again…
Off to Oreilly’s to get a filter/gasket and more Type F fluid.
Ended up having to pull the valve body out but I Got it!
And Way less work than pulling out the Tcase again…
All back together, filled with fluid, driving around the neighborhood and she won’t shift out of 1st gear.
To top it off the pedal feels funny… Poked around and swore some more at the thought of having to pull Trans pan out again but didn’t give up…Found the issue was the kick down lever, for some reason it was clocked the wrong way…
Once adjusted everything is working great.
Trans is shifting, T-case is staying in gear and the T-case shifts into all positions…Problem is solved.
No leaks.
#6 Put in quiet tailgate hinges
Pretty straight forward here.
I did hit the bolts a few days in advance with some penetrating oil.
And I did scratch the bottom of the tailgate on the larger bolt heads from my plate bumper…
Good thing she’s not a show car!
After I clean her up on Friday I'll be Off to Bronco Rama… with both tanks working/registering on gage, back up lights, sounds system rocking, T-case/Transmission/driveline in order oh and lastly a few less rattles thanks to the tailgate hinges.
See you guys on Saturday!
Last edited:
