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Building a Full Width 44

bronko69er

EB Addict
Joined
Oct 16, 2006
Messages
4,599
Loc.
Renton, WA
BUCKETOBOLTS said:
With moving the rear back and adding the doubler, I'm not sure what my pinion angle is going to be. I'll have to do a mock-up first and tack the perches. Then finish welding latter. I have also given thought to moving the springs under the frame rail rather than beside them like the factory. I know the further apart they are the more stable the rig will be, but how much actually makes a difference?

My first thought is, how much lift would it make? 4"-6"?
Second thought is that it would be quite unstable. If it is improved articulation you are after, there are other safer ways to do it. I'd put in longer leaves or even the drooping rear shackle mount (someone has the pic) before I would move the springs in that far.
To answer the stability difference (based on leverage) question do this:
~57/~36 (original axle width/srping spacing) = 1.583
~65/~30 (new axle width/new spring spacing) = 2.167
100 - 100x(1.583/2.167) = 26.95% less stable

You can fine tune the numbers if you're interested in a more accurate answer.
 
Last edited:
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BUCKETOBOLTS

BUCKETOBOLTS

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Oct 28, 2003
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Salisbury, NC
My front spring hanger is about 3" below the frame rail. Where I have been looking to relocate it is approximatly 1-1.5" higher because of the rise for the rear axle. They would have to move about 4" inboard though. As for the shackle mount I want to box the frame at the bumper mount. Then reverse mount the shackle through a tube in the frame. Everything is just on paper right now. I don't want it to become undrivable.
 

bronko69er

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Joined
Oct 16, 2006
Messages
4,599
Loc.
Renton, WA
You could always go with a detachable adjustable anti-roll bar....
Another concern is the added stress on the axle tubes. The net result would be moving each spring pearch in by 8"? from stock on the full width. That puts a lot more bending load on the axle tubes, Not sure if its enough to matter though. You might haveto truss it to make up for the increased loading. I wonder if this idea has come up in previous threads.
 

68 Broncoholic

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May 16, 2005
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WA
I thought about this 10 years back when Jeeps and Yotas were doing 1/4 elliptical rear suspension. The easiest way is to have the leafs mount under the frame but the Bronco is too narrow and I decided against it.

I assume you are trying to gain more flex cheap right? With the full width axles you will run gains quite a bit more flex over stock width due to the location of the suspension. Any further in would be too much. Just think of it this way, my buddy ran a wristed arm and could lift a tire 45" with stock EB width. After adding full width axles he can lift the same tire to 60" :eek: . Thats a huge gain alone, do you need more flex than that? Most everyting else is gunna cost ya.
 

68 Broncoholic

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Its nice to see a small welder do well with thick metal. Is it 220v or 110v?

For pinion angle just add a string so the center of the yoke points at the bottom of the t-case yoke, not the center. It can almost be eye balled and be OK.
 

bronko69er

EB Addict
Joined
Oct 16, 2006
Messages
4,599
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Renton, WA
68 Broncoholic said:
Its nice to see a small welder do well with thick metal. Is it 220v or 110v?.
Its a 110V on full throttle. Took 3 to 4 passes. As long as you prep it right it'll work it just takes longer.
Hobart 180 is on its way though....
 
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BUCKETOBOLTS

BUCKETOBOLTS

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Oct 28, 2003
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Salisbury, NC
Here are a few pics of the parts and pieces I've been collecting. I did manage to get the bracket cut off and cleaned up on the rear 9". I found a set of Chevy flat top knuckles I want to use for the high steer. Also dug up a set of rear Lincoln calipers for the big bearing housing. I'd like to get a Nodular 3rd member and full spool for the rear. And a Detroit or selectable locker for the front. Undecided on gears also. Been thinking about stepping up to 4.11 for a bit better road gear. The C6 has a 2.71 first and the doubler should give me back my crawl.
 

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bronko69er

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Joined
Oct 16, 2006
Messages
4,599
Loc.
Renton, WA
Update on Progress:
Shipping delays have put off finnishing the gear install untill tomorrow. Should have it back tomorrow after work. Both axles are all painted and ready to be re-assembled (this weekend). If all goes well with no more shipping delays (brake hoses) I'll be ready to install on the 3day MLK weekend.
 

Dave

Contributor
Bronco Guru
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Aug 25, 2006
Messages
2,264
Some time ago I cut the wedges off and dressed up cut welds on the axle and wedges. I clamped them back on with the radius arms and caps using the old bushings. I was able to reinstall it and put the weight back on it. You can then align everything and tack weld the wedges in place. I've also cut the plug welds out with a mill and rotate the differential to get a better pinion angle but that requires milling the plug welds cleanly so the tubes will rotate without beating things to death. Just some food for thought. Dave...
 

bronko69er

EB Addict
Joined
Oct 16, 2006
Messages
4,599
Loc.
Renton, WA
BUCKETOBOLTS said:
I've been thinking about building a new set of radius arms. Maybe similar to these.

xjlt1_01.jpg

Might be a little tricky on the drivers side since the pumpkin is so close to the spring..... Would be cool if it turned out.
 

bronko69er

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Oct 16, 2006
Messages
4,599
Loc.
Renton, WA
Install complete.... well sorta...

My full widths are in!
A rundown on how it went:
The HPD44 went in ok, however my fear about needing shorty headers came true so I'll be w/o front wheel drive until I remedy that (and shorten the drive line).

Front troubles: I damaged the driver's side axle seal putting the axle in. I was really pissed:-X :mad: :-X . Not a huge deal since I don't have front drive yet. I'll just have rip it all apart again and replace that b4 I filler up.
Rear troubles: none other than I forgot to get the right sized U-joint for the new yoke.

Misc troubles: the bottle of gas I got for the welder was just compressed air so I couldn't weld up my links. I let the gas boys hear about it this morning :mad: . They said it must have been mis-labeled.

What's left?: install new U-joint, resize track bar, tie-rod, drag link, bleed brakes, weld on rear shock mounts and she'll be ready to roll. I'm welding some DOM tubing ($30) over the rods to resize temporarily till I can save up for the stonecrusher setup. I'll also fab some temporary sheet metal flares to keep the cops off until I come up with a wide flare solution.
I have some pics I'll post tomorrow. I forgot to bring them to work.
 
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