C bushing torque

[Whoaa]

I'm filling my little brain with gobs of information that I'm suppose to remeber...

From what I have gathered, it's good to use an X pattern when torqueing the front C caps to the Radius arms. My information shows a touque rate of 90 - 110 ft lbs.
And sometimes you'll get "lean" to side or the other, even using diligence when installing new C bushings. And if/when this happens the correction can be a either changing the position of one fo the C bushing, and/or applying a different torque amount to the bottom or top of the C cap.

So taking all of this into consideration is it "normal/common" for the C bushing's to splay open when you start tightening the C cap?

I just installed new C bushing's and trying my best to get them right. I never did get all the way to 90 ft llbs of torque before the caps were nearly touching thier mate on the radius arm, closer to about 70-75 lbs, but the bushings are splaying open...such as things do when "crushed". I'm 100% certain that the bushings are installed corectly w/ the proper orinentation.

The first pic was for the purpose of a different issue, clerence issues between lower coil cup and trac bar riser, but this pic shows that the housing is pretty close on top. And what it doesn't show is the bottom is touching -radius arm C to the front C cap.

The second pic show the bushing splaying open, but I realize its not the best pic. The bushing ar sticking *out" around 3/8" or so on both sides.

I can get better pic's tommorow from the proper angle..

 

[golfobx]

Mine splayed out as well for what that's worth. There is no lean.

 

[spap]

I tighten the radius arms on the ground not connected to the vehicle and with out the springs that way you can tell they are even to the bround so you won't get the lean. That way you can adjust how you torque them up to make sure they are even
As for the sprayed out position. You really need to grease up the c
bushings very well to reduce that as much as possible

 

[Whoaa]

Both Radius arms were parallel with each other, resting on the floor, when I started installing the C bushing, and I used a generous amount of lubricate prior to tightening. Maybe I didn't use enough liquid soap/hand cleaner and they got bound-up when I started tightening them? Or maybe its just normal and common for them to splay open?

 

[spap]

Mine sprayed out a little bit too. But I don't think it affected the castor. Sometimes in the final tightening to where the radius arm and the cap meet they can still move when getting torqued all the way down. I retorqued mine about three times. Before I got it perfect. Noting but fun

 

[Whoaa]

It's a good idea to tighten the cap bolts down evenly, and a little at a time. If they end up splayed like yours, disassemble it and find out why. Don't just overtorque and hope they'll seat. They may look indestructible, but I've seen them bend or break during assembly.

I don't have a local parts house that has C bushing's in stock. The ones I just installed are brand new. Would it be reasonable to assume that I screwed them up during installation and should buy some new ones and have them sitting here when I take it back apart again -w/ the intentions to reinstall new ones again.
According to info that I have read the torque spec is 90-110 lbs, I didn't tighten them anywhere close to that. I'm between 70-75 lbs of torque on all of the bolts, and they are splayed open.
I'm using a Duff casting / long arm, but can't imagine that makes any difference between stock arms because the C portion appears to be the same.

 

[bronconut73]

If your arms are even/parallel I would say run them.
The c-bushings don't look 'that' splayed out.
I think mine bulged a bit as I tightened them down 25 years ago. Still fine.

 

[carmi]

The c bushings will definitely squeeze out the side of the caps. That is totally normal. What you want to make sure is that they do it evenly on both sides of the caps / arms. The caps are designed to completely close together with the arms. There should be no gap left after full bolt torque is applied. This is considered a slip critical design where the tension from the bolts creates a mechanical connection (friction) between the cap and the arm and thus eliminates most of the shear stress on the bolts. If there is a gap, then the bolts will see 100% of the shear stress as well as the tensile stress. This will eventually cause failure. In addition, If they do not close all the way, your spring perches will not line up with the holes.

 

[Whoaa]

The lower coil cups that I'm using have one round bolt hole and one slotted hole. The stock coil cups have two round bolt holes which only allows for a certain fit.
I think this has been my issue the whole time. I'm seeing the slotted hole in my coil cup, and watching the bushing splay open, while only at 75 ft lbs, and thinking something is wrong.

So both sides, the C of the arm and the C cap are suppose to come together and totaly close any gap?

 

[70_Steve]

So taking all of this into consideration is it "normal/common" for the C bushing's to splay open when you start tightening the C cap?

I just installed new C bushing's and trying my best to get them right. I never did get all the way to 90 ft llbs of torque before the caps were nearly touching thier mate on the radius arm, closer to about 70-75 lbs, but the bushings are splaying open...such as things do when "crushed". I'm 100% certain that the bushings are installed corectly w/ the proper orinentation.

Here's a pic of what I considered unacceptable. These were Prothane bushings. I removed them and installed Daystar bushings, and they fit as would be expected, with no "squish".

And I added a pic of a friends Bronco with the Daystar bushings installed, for reference. Which is why I chose the Daystar bushings

 

[Whoaa]

I'm still working on this and now have some better pic's. Now I have the C on the radius arm and the C cap mated together all the way and right at 100 ft lbs.

With careful attention to detail and support from very knowledgeable Bronco folks at Duff's & WH, these bushing are installed correctly to the best of my knowledge.

I have learned that there are some inconsistencies from Bronco-to-Bronco and diff housing -to diff housing, so not all of them will fit and look the same.

I can't say that I'm happy w/ the way the look. However I know they have the correct torque, and know they were installed w/ lube, and know the bushing have the correct orientation.

The first 2 pic's are the passenger side, and the second 2 pic's are the drivers side

.

 

[kybronco]

I just installed new Duff bushing kit last night. I used white engine assembly grease that worked great for lube. We own an tire shop, so we were familiar with the workings of the radius arms. Axle housing on stands and arms touching floor. We just "impacted" carefully until the cups and arms were flush. No issues. sucked right up and no sqooshing out. arms even and looks right. I think the bushing material and lubrication are key to a successful installation. I would also add extensive cleaning to the metal surfaces on the axle, arms and cups. I mean shiny!

 

[carmi]

Every set of bushings I have installed (3 sets) have looked like your pictures. Anywhere from a 1/2" to 3/4" squished out. In 18 years I have had no problems. I do agree with the vendor comments that each bronco is unique and "results may vary".

 

[DirtDonk]

I think you've got it now Whoaa, but just to make sure, the torque spec is not for the bushings. It's for the caps/arms. The bushing is just an insulator between the axle and arms, and has nothing to do with the torque rating. You're just making sure that the caps don't come apart.

As said, you'd never leave a gap there by trying to keep the insulators from squishing or from putting too much torque on them. You can't (normally anyway) as once the caps seat, the only components that see that extra torque is the interface and bolts.
It's a mechanical link and needs to be treated as such.

The slotted hole in the cups is to make sure they fit all applications and slight variations and bolt sizes. As a side bonus it leaves a little "leakage" area where water can drain out in some cases.

Paul