C4 Trans question/Service

[flexmerc]

Currently i have the Frame removed from the body, Engine/Trans together and Xcase and Adapter spererated and being services. The adapter was cracked on the top (facing the body).

I want to service the transmission, change out the pan, filter....

I would like to have the Transmission + Adapter + Transfer Case mounted on the frame when I marry it back to the body.

My question is, is it a pain in the butt to remove/reinstall the Transmission from the Bellhousing?
Are there any specific mechanical complications to putting the Bellhousing and Transmission back together?

Or should i remove the Transmission/Bellhousing together, for servicing?

Best Regards, and thanks a bunch.

R,
Felix

 

[B RON CO]

Hi, after the torque converter is out of the way the Bell housing to tranny bolts are right there. For me, the pain in the neck part is dripping tranny fluid out of the vent or the dipstick hole when moving it around.
You know the pan fill Bronco pan is not the " normal" pan.
Good luck

 

[flexmerc]

thanks B RON CO, my question is.

IF I remove the hand full of bolts from the Bell Housing to the Engine, when I go to reconnect the two, is there anything specific I need to line up? or is it just a spline shaft male to female and bolt it right up?

This is the confusing part...

From the Haynes Repair manual it reads:
Chapter 7, para 2
3 remove the torque converter drain plug access cover and adapter plate bolts from the lower end of the converter housing.
4 remove the flywheel to converter attaching nuts, turning the engine as necessary to gain access by means of a socket on the crankshaft pulley attaching bolt.
5 rotate the engine until the converter drain plug is accessible then remove the plug.

 

[Hotrodjohn]

When you remove the bolts from the flywheel to converter and the trans bellhousing to engine it, the trans and converter, should come right off. You do not want to try to remove trans with converter still bolted to the flywheel although you could do it because your frame off. There are some dowels in the block that line up the bellhousing. When you reassemble you always put the converter all the way in the transmission making sure the two notches on the back of converter catch the pump and the converter is all the way into the trans before you reinstall the trans to motor. You just line up the dowels to bolt on the bellhousing and turn the converter to line up the holes in the flywheel to bolt them up, you will have to turn motor as you go to get access to all the bolts. Any lining up will be sliding the converter into trans as you are lining up splines and then notches.

 

[Rustytruck]

Its pretty simple Take the lower cover off the auto tranny's bellhousing. rotate the converter and take off the 4 converter bolts pry back the converter from the flywheel. take off transfer case shifter assembly. get your tranny jack under the whole mess. remove tranny dipstick tube from tranny pan. remove top bolt holding tranny dipstick tube. crap full of tranny fluid will drain out the pan hole. disconnect vacuum lines from the vacuum modulator. disconnect tranny cooler lines jack up tranny and remove drive shafts and rear tranny / transfer case mount. make sure there is nothing in front of the Fan. motor will tilt back fan will jam into anything in front of the fan. if body is still in place put a small piece of 2x4 between drivers side valve cover and the firewall. disconnect wires for the neutral safety switch by the firewall. disconnect the exhaust system and the shift rod and downshift rod at the tranny. you should be reddy to push everything back as soon as you remove the bellhousing bolts. with the tranny jack holding the weight push the tranny back and watch the converter keep pushing the converter off the flywheel as you push back. You want to keep the converter in the tranny. I prefer to take it all apart one component at a time. when you take the transfer case off it automatically doesnt stay in balance and wants to fall and kill you. Beware. putting it back together is just the reverse. but before you go putting it back in install the converter in the tranny. twist the converter around pushing back until you hear 3 klunks as the converter goes back in place. when putting the tranny back look between the flex plate and the converter it shoulds set back from the flywheel as the studs go through the flywheel. tightening up the stud nuts should pull the converter up to the flex plate. if the converter is already up to the flywheel the converter is not all the way into the tranny. forcing it together will break the oil pump in the tranny. you will be pissed and have to tear it all apart to replace the pump and try again. Make sure the converter sits back from the edge of the bell housing before you mate it together. This is a common problem area so double check. refilling the tranny will take far more fluid the you think it will.

 

[TruFordBlu]

If your just changing the fluid ,adjusting the bands and replacing the pan and filter(sounds like it to me) you do not need to remove the trans from the frame or separate it from the engine. You may need to raise the back of the trans so it is about level if the t-case adapter is already out of the vehicle. Remove the lower access cover from the front of the bell housing(usually two bolts) then manually turn the engine until the drain plug is at its lowest point . You can then remove the drain plug from the converter(1/8" pipe plug unless it has been modified)and drain the converter. Re-install the plug and cover then proceed to remove the pan. So unless you're rebuilding the trans or replacing converter or front pump seals, you don't have to remove it. Hope this is what you're referring to. David