• Welcome to ClassicBroncos! - You are currently viewing the forums as a GUEST. To take advantage of all the site features, please take a moment to register. It's fast, simple and absolutely free. So please join our community today!
    If you have problems registering or can't log into your account, please contact Admin.

Carb / choke question Stock Reman carb

Joined
Aug 8, 2016
Messages
42
Loc.
Steamboast Springs
We just got a remanufactured / motorcraft 2100 2bbl carb to replace the crispy 2100 carb on our 74 bronco.
I ordered it from Nick at NE Classic Ford parts - and ordered the one for my 74 with 302 & automatic trans.

What i didn't realize is our 302 has headers on it. The PO ( who is a family member ) installed a cheap manual choke setup that is rather low grade / overall pretty crappy / donkey.

The reman carb has the thermo choke, which hooks up to choke tubes ( which I no longer have ) to a manifold I also no longer have....

I would like to know if an electric choke is the way to go? Or stick with the hot / thermo choke that came with the new carb and use a universal choke tube kit... or pipe in another manual setup / maybe of better quality than what we have?

Sorry if I'm not calling everything by the correct name. Just want to be able to plumb in the new carb and start our bronco up!!

If more info is needed to help diagnose, I can try my best to provide more info -- thanks y'alls!!
 

B RON CO

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Jun 29, 2016
Messages
2,446
Loc.
Statesville, NC
Hi, I would try the replacement universal hot air kit first, the way Ford did it. You can clamp the tube to the headers. If you are not happy with that you can try the electric upgrade later. Ford also made the heater hose run past the choke spring housing to add heat to the choke. Good luck
 
OP
OP
SLAYER
Joined
Aug 8, 2016
Messages
42
Loc.
Steamboast Springs
Thanks for the advice. Are there any kits out there better than others or are they all basically the same? For the fresh air, i guess just run it to the air cleaner?
 

jckkys

Bronco Guru
Joined
Mar 15, 2012
Messages
5,213
You're stuck with either an electrically heated thermostatic choke cap or a manual choke 2100. There are no manual choke conversions for 2100s. Those POS things that put an arm on the choke cap are worthless. A choke stove jury rigged by hose clamping a steel tube to one of the header tubes may work a little but not worth the trouble. Just get one like this;http://www.ebay.com/itm/Electric-Ch...00-2150-/272244854235?hash=item3f630ecddb:g:~. The power comes from the stator terminal on the alternator.
 

tirewater

Sr. Member
Joined
Jan 28, 2011
Messages
1,044
Loc.
San Francisco Bay Area
Ford made both electric and choke stove versions, and sometimes at the same time.

I bought the universal choke stove kit, thinking I needed it to pass smog. I spent some time making it ugly and decided to get rid of it and cap off the connections on the choke housing.

Electric is a little easier, and only one wire. Mike's Carburetor Parts sells electric chokes (as well as your auto store, summit, amazon, etc...)

We just got a remanufactured / motorcraft 2100 2bbl carb to replace the crispy 2100 carb on our 74 bronco.
I ordered it from Nick at NE Classic Ford parts - and ordered the one for my 74 with 302 & automatic trans.

What i didn't realize is our 302 has headers on it. The PO ( who is a family member ) installed a cheap manual choke setup that is rather low grade / overall pretty crappy / donkey.

The reman carb has the thermo choke, which hooks up to choke tubes ( which I no longer have ) to a manifold I also no longer have....

I would like to know if an electric choke is the way to go? Or stick with the hot / thermo choke that came with the new carb and use a universal choke tube kit... or pipe in another manual setup / maybe of better quality than what we have?

Sorry if I'm not calling everything by the correct name. Just want to be able to plumb in the new carb and start our bronco up!!

If more info is needed to help diagnose, I can try my best to provide more info -- thanks y'alls!!
 
OP
OP
SLAYER
Joined
Aug 8, 2016
Messages
42
Loc.
Steamboast Springs
Thanks for the help fellas, I will do some research on the the e-choke. I would like to get a hearty tried and true unit and not dink around with low grade stuff if i can avoid it.
 

jckkys

Bronco Guru
Joined
Mar 15, 2012
Messages
5,213
You can't cap off the original hot air nipple on the choke housing without defeating the choke pull off piston. A hose needs to run from the choke housing to the nipple originally made to supply the exhaust manifold stove. The air needs to flow from the filtered air supply to the choke housing. Here's how Holley did this;http://www.ebay.com/itm/Holley-8045...ash=item1ec32871e7:g:KkMAAOSwxEpYxEhK&vxp=mtr. The the 2100, 2150, and 4100 Ford carbs need to plumbed the same way. With this hose and an electrically heated choke cap, the originally exhaust heated choke stove isn't needed. For those who have the OE heat stove in the exhaust manifold, keep it. It helps to keep the choke open when a still warm engine has its choke housing cooled down and the engine doesn't need any choke enrichment. That's why Ford added the electrically heated choke cap while keeping the hot air stove. By '85 the Mustang 302 HOs with Holley 4 bbl carbs, had the electrically heated choke cap stand alone when the cast iron exhaust manifold was replaced with shorty headers.
 
OP
OP
SLAYER
Joined
Aug 8, 2016
Messages
42
Loc.
Steamboast Springs
Thanks!! So if I'm understanding you correctly, since I no longer have the hot air supply at the manifold, the heated electric choke will work, once I close that loop from the nipple on the carb body, to the threaded inlet on the choke housing....Basically a few inches worth of hose/tube....?
 

jckkys

Bronco Guru
Joined
Mar 15, 2012
Messages
5,213
A short 1/4" steel tube in the choke housing gives you a place to slip the hose onto. Most of the 2100s used compression type fittings. About 4" of hose should be enough. Just don't let the hose kink. All your doing is replacing the exhaust manifold stove as a heat source with an electrically heated choke cap. All the rest of the automatic choke needs to work as before.
 
OP
OP
SLAYER
Joined
Aug 8, 2016
Messages
42
Loc.
Steamboast Springs
My new carb does not have a manual choke.... it's got the one that uses the choke tubes... and the headers replaced the old manifold where the choke tubes connected originally.
Hence the pickle I'm in.

The manual choke that was on there is such a rickety piece of crap, if I did go with a manual I would want something quality, smooth etc.
 

jckkys

Bronco Guru
Joined
Mar 15, 2012
Messages
5,213
You're good to go with the electrically heated choke cap and a short hose. You also need to consider your 6700' altitude and look at smaller jets. Holley has a rule of thumb for this. They say to reduce the jet one size for every 2000' above sea level. You can get 2100 jets cheap here;http://www.allcarbs.com/detail.php?pid=159&gb=1&ctgn=27&stt=0. Yours are likely from Pa. and around 47-49 size so 44-46 should work at your altitude, but look at yours first.
 
Top