Carb rebuild questions from a rookie

[Slowleak]

Thats the idle speed screw in the top picture. Turn it in to increase the idle speed. See if that will get you to the point where it will idle on it's own. The choke butterfly should be open when warm and it appears to be in the bottom picture. Don't worry about it yet.

 

[k13evin]

Sorry to jump in. I always use a vac gauge.
I make sure my timing is set right and have a TAC plus the vac gauge. Set the idle to about 600rpm. And then turn the driver side idle needle in till the motor sounds like it's about to die. Then start backing out 1/4 of a turn till I get a 18 to 20 hg on my vac gauge. Then do the same with the other needle.

 

[Slowleak]

Me too, but I doubt that he has a vacuum guage. It should be easy to get him running without one for now...... One step at a time......

 

[Gweiner]

Ok idling. Puffing smoke out back. Too rich i am guessing. Turn mixture screws inclockwise a quarter turn?

 

[Slowleak]

Yep...... One at a time.

 

[broncnaz]

Make sure the engine is warmed up and the choke is fully open before trying to adjust the idle mixture screws. Idle mixture screws out of adjustment wont cause black smoke out the exhuast you have something else going on like float level to high or a bad power valve. Assuming that the choke is open.

 

[NashBronco]

Gweiner, where did you end up on this?

I have a new 67' with manual choke and I am trying to tune up the carb. I will likely rebuild it as all the seals are leaking. I have an autolite 2100.

I, like you, am trying to figure out which screws to adjust first. the idle screw, manual choke or fuel moisture screws? My problem is that i cant get it to stay running unless I keep it choked or turn up the idle screw all the way.

Also i assume counterclockwise on the moisture screws increases the fuel supply?

not trying to high jack but I noticed that this was my same problem and hadn't been responded to in a while.
thanks,
Houston

 

[broncodriver99]

Gweiner, where did you end up on this?

I have a new 67' with manual choke and I am trying to tune up the carb. I will likely rebuild it as all the seals are leaking. I have an autolite 2100.

I, like you, am trying to figure out which screws to adjust first. the idle screw, manual choke or fuel moisture screws? My problem is that i cant get it to stay running unless I keep it choked or turn up the idle screw all the way.

Also i assume counterclockwise on the moisture screws increases the fuel supply?

not trying to high jack but I noticed that this was my same problem and hadn't been responded to in a while.
thanks,
Houston

Here is a good write up on rebuilding and adjusting one. It explains the way some of the parts work and the process for tuning. http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/pdf_documents/motorcraft_2150_carb.pdf

 

[NashBronco]

any particular carb rebuild kit i should get? what else should i replace while i have it apart? any reason to take the manifold off while i have the carb off?

 

[jckkys]

The carburetor parts suppliers like Carburetors Unlimited and Walker Products sell both rebuild kits and the dechoking diaphragm. In fact they have most any part you may need for a rebuild or tune, for instance jets. Gweiner stated in post #10 that the 2100 was rebuilt. Who rebuilt it? You or someone else? If the latter, get them to give you the instructions. They have a step by step method to set up the choke, manual or automatic, the idle mixture/speed, float level, and solenoid. Some specs vary with the application and those instructions have all of them. A simple Google search will give you endless videos illustrating how to do it. NashBronco would also benifit by buying a rebuild kit, if only to get the instructions. The parts and gaskets may come in handy too.