Changing Timing Gear, Water Pump and Oil Pan Seals -2 Questions

[Farrell Martin]

I have been having a persistent leak on the front of my engine and narrowed it down to the the timing gear cover, so changing all the seals on the front and oil pan seal while I am in there. I have everything apart and it us ready to be put back together, but I stopped to get a couple questions answered.

1) I bought the Felpro gasket kit and it comes with a metal sleeve and a small tube of some sort of red adhesive - what is this for? I assume I am supposed to insert that sleeve on the crank, but want to confirm.

2)What is the torque spec for the crank bolt that holds the harmonic balancer on?

Thanks in advance - Farrell

 

[Ourobos]

1. I'd be scared to replace the front of the cork pan gasket and not expect a leak. If possible, can you drop the pan and install a 1-piece rubber oil pan gasket? They seal SO much better.
2. Ford calls for 70-90 ft/lb of torque.

 

[WSM29]

That sleeve or ring will go into the timing cover. You will need to knock the old seal out and get a big socket to evenly seat the new seal.

 

[Farrell Martin]

1. I'd be scared to replace the front of the cork pan gasket and not expect a leak. If possible, can you drop the pan and install a 1-piece rubber oil pan gasket? They seal SO much better.
2. Ford calls for 70-90 ft/lb of torque.

I am not replacing only the front portion of he seal. I have removed the oil pan and am putting in a new one piece gasket on the entire pan.

Thanks for the torque spec.

 

[Farrell Martin]

That sleeve or ring will go into the timing cover. You will need to knock the old seal out and get a big socket to evenly seat the new seal.

Thanks, but I know what that ring is and have already installed it. The sleeve I am speaking of is a very thin bearing type thing. It looks like it is supposed to fit over the crank and the timing cover seal rides on it..... I think.

 

[Farrell Martin]

This is the sleeve I have a question about...

 

[broncnaz]

Its a speedy sleeve. If your HB has grooves where the seal worn into it then you install that sleeve on the HB so you have a like new sealing surface. The red stuff in the tube is probably loctite used to help hold the sleeve on and prevent oil from seeping through the sleeve.
Hard to tell the sleeve may be a little thick not sure if the crank seal is the same part number as a stock one Id check the HB seal fitment. You may need to install the sleeve even if your HB has no grooves in it.

 

[Farrell Martin]

Its a speedy sleeve. If your HB has grooves where the seal worn into it then you install that sleeve on the HB so you have a like new sealing surface. The red stuff in the tube is probably loctite used to help hold the sleeve on and prevent oil from seeping through the sleeve.
Hard to tell the sleeve may be a little thick not sure if the crank seal is the same part number as a stock one Id check the HB seal fitment. You may need to install the sleeve even if your HB has no grooves in it.

Great info. Thanks all that took the time to respond.

- Farrell

 

[DirtDonk]

Also called a readi-sleeve(sp?). But those are probably brand names, or just what different manufacturers choose to call the category.

Available for all sorts of applications, but crank dampers are one of the more common uses.

Paul

 

[blubuckaroo]

I've never seen one supplied in a gasket kit like that.
Do you need to heat it before pressing it on?

 

[DirtDonk]

I have, but not very often. Usually would be a "special" kit with that in mind. Maybe their supplier is only stocking that kind for all sales instead of having multiple kits? Dunno.

Heating might not be a bad idea. And cooling the damper.
Honestly, I've never successfully installed one on a damper. Messed up a few before moving on to Plan-B.
They can be quite delicate, so it takes just the right touch.

Paul

 

[Doyle]

I've had the most sucess installing speedy sleeves putting the HB in the freezer overnight. The sleeve is so thin it won't retain the heat long.

 

[WheelHorse]

Don't forget to lube the front seal.

When I was 16 doing my first timing chain set up I forgot to lube the hb seal and burned it up. That led to a drip that I couldn't figure out why it was still leaking. Another two hours later and I had installed another seal and made sure to rub some clean oil on her before installing the timing cover. No leaks afterwards. HB snout was clean.

 

[brianstrange]

If you are purchasing a rubber oil pan gasket, be sure to buy it based on the oil pan (sealing surface) you're using. Some gaskets have texture at the sealing surface (for smooth pans) and others dont (for textured pans)

 

[blubuckaroo]

Farrell, one thing to keep in mind whenever you reinstall the timing cover is there are no alignment dowels. You need to temporarily stab in the harmonic balancer in before tightening the cover bolts. If you don't you may not have the seal centered and too much pressure will be on one side of the seal and the leak repair can be short lived.

 

[Farrell Martin]

Farrell, one thing to keep in mind whenever you reinstall the timing cover is there are no alignment dowels. You need to temporarily stab in the harmonic balancer in before tightening the cover bolts. If you don't you may not have the seal centered and too much pressure will be on one side of the seal and the leak repair can be short lived.

Great tip, thanks.

 

[DirtDonk]

That's excellent advice for just about any engine. Glad you mentioned it.
Heck, even with dowel pins, it's probably not a bad way to double-check their alignment.

Was mildly surprised to even hear someone on one of the car shows mention it. Finally!

Good call.

Paul