chassis saver vs. por15 vs. eastwood vs. kbs

[golfobx]

whats everyones thoughts on which chassis paint to use...ive read so many mixed reviews

 

[Bronco Junkie]

I used Corroless rust inhibitor on both of my Bronco's (when I had 2). It was old school stuff that my friend had left over.

 

[1strodeo]

...ive read so many mixed reviews

well get ready to read many more!

My POR15 turned out great, but too soon to tell, hell it hasn't even been driven since

 

[AZ73]

Don't forget Rustbullet (a sponsor here). As far as I can tell, they're all pretty much the same. I can't speak for Rustbullet but Por and KBS are UV sensitive so you'll need to coat them with a top coat if the part will be exposed to sun. All are only as good as your prep work. I used KBS and have been pleased with both brushing and spraying. Brushing requires attention to temperature (I think above 85 and you'll need to add 10% of their thinner). If you spray KBS pay attention to their warnings on respirators. The stuff is water cured and guess what's in your lungs. I used a 3m half face with OV 95 cartridges and P95 pre-filters. I like to use pre-filters because you can change them without changing the cartridge. They'll block the vast majority of the aerosol before it even gets to the cartridge. DON'T SKIMP. Your life depends on it.

I didn't want to ruin my nice HVLP gun so I shot it with a cheap HF $9.99 gun and tossed the gun when I was done. KBS doesn't come off so it wasn't worth trying to clean the gun. Also if you get it on your skin, it won't come off until your skin does. I wear a full painting suit with a hoodie from Home Deport and 2 sets of 5 mil Nitrile gloves because the outside glove will get paint on it and if you try to take it off without another set of gloves on, your fingers will be painted until your skin comes off. If you're doing it in a garage, roll out painter's paper on the floor and cover everything with plastic. The tiny droplets will cover everything and not come off.

KBS has performed well. It flowed smooth and has a shiny black color. I've dropped tools and other parts on it and it barely gets a mark. I needed to do some additional work on part of the frame that was coated and it took a grinding wheel with 80 grit to get it off. When I was done with the repair, I just re-coated the area with KBS using a Brush.

I think I read someplace once that KBS are ex-POR 15 guys or vice versa so I view them as equal.

 

[American180]

I was just checking out the Rust Bullet web sight and it has some formulas that are UV Resistant. https://www.theruststore.com/Rust-Bullet-BlackShell-P372C111.aspx

 

[1buckeyefan1]

on a semi-related note, a KBS rep was recently telling me theirs sticks to bare metal better than "the other guys". I've read quite a few reviews here that claim POR15 isn't the best choice for bare/fresh metal? thoughts?

 

[bronkenn]

I have used POR a lot and had excellent results. I have stuff I done 20 years ago that still looks good. As previously stated it needs to be top coated. They have a chassis coat top coat that looks nice on a frame and is uv stable. It flows out real nice when brushed on. It does require some prep work with cleaner and etcher but that extra effort actually makes it look good. I have used KBS a little and seemed a lot like POR. Don't know the longevity of it though. I also tried Master Series and did not like it. It went on thick and wouldn't flow even though the instructions said it would. Would not recommend it. Good luck, Ken

 

[sykanr0ng]

on a semi-related note, a KBS rep was recently telling me theirs sticks to bare metal better than "the other guys". I've read quite a few reviews here that claim POR15 isn't the best choice for bare/fresh metal? thoughts?

POR = Paint Over Rust

 

[1buckeyefan1]

POR = Paint Over Rust

Yep, that's what i've gathered from my limited research.. prep well and only put it over rusty metal. However, I have conjoined areas of old paint, cleaned rust, welds and fresh patch panels. I'm sure the best scenario is POR over the cleaned rust, followed by epoxy primer over the old paint and new metal panel, followed by another coat of epoxy over it all? But does everyone go as far as taping off the new metal panel when applying POR?

I guess my question really boiled down to "can I put a coat of KBS over it all" and then epoxy prime over that?

btw, sorry to thread hijack, but it seemed in the spirit of the KBS vs. POR vs. Chassis Saver thread.

for what it's worth, I also have a gallon of chassis saver that I plan to put on my frame

 

[AZ73]

KBS will stick to anything that's scuffed, but, like anything, sandblasted is a great surface. New metal, old metal, paint, primer, even cleaned up rust (most of the loose stuff taken off). You can prime over it after 4 hours but before it completely hardens in 8, or you'll have to scuff it with 320 or red scotchbrite to prime.

 

[NashBronco]

I used POR and did not have great results. I followed the directions to a T and still had issues with it flaking off a couple weeks later.

I just used the Eastwood stuff and I am very pleased. I also like that it is in a spray can vs. POR that has to be brushed on. Less prep work on the Eastwood stuff as well. I was really surprised that POR didn't perform better. Lots of people really like it.

If you go with Eastwood, or ice that the "heavy duty" rust treatment has a waxy finish to it so it never gets hard. Per Eastwood, It's mainly for cracks and undercoating areas. Their Rust Encapsulator dries really hard. Very pleased with it.

 

[PCDan]

I can’t rate the three, but I just did the frame and complete undercarriage with KBS. Pretty happy with the product so for. It even does a good job of self leveling rolling and brushing upside down. I followed their 3 step process. FYI this is the Satin, which is still glossy.

 

[American180]

I can’t rate the three, but I just did the frame and complete undercarriage with KBS. Pretty happy with the product so for. It even does a good job of self leveling rolling and brushing upside down. I followed their 3 step process. FYI this is the Satin, which is still glossy.

Looks great, especially for doing it upside down.

 

[Galt72]

I used KBS on my frame. I followed all the instructions and a few weeks later it started lifting off. I had to remove it all. Much of it came off in big sheets. I don't know where or what went wrong. I ended up using Rustbullet which is thick and sticks to everything. 2 yrs later no issues.

 

[377]

Gall72,
Did you put two coats of the KBS on? The second coat after the first had cured? I had the exact same thing happen with Rust Bullet it came off in like sheet type pieces. I think it was because the first coat had cured and the adhesion was there for some reason.

 

[tirewater]

My 2 cents.

Given the limited driving these vehicles see these days, I think the moisture cured urethane route (POR, KBS, etc...) is probably overkill unless you plan on driving it on salted roads during the winter. Personally I'm not a fan of the super shiny black of POR15, and would top coat it if I used it.

If you can sand blast the frame, an epoxy primer + top coat would be my choice.

For a frame that you can't fully clean, I'd sand, clean, degrease, the best I could and use a ospho/corroseal type product, then Eastwood rust encapsulator, then a satin chassis black topcoat. Of course I do not have experience doing this, so YMMV.

It really depends on what you have, and what you plan to do with it.

On a side note, I've used the Eastwood rust encapsulator on the top halfs of the hard top stakes and was impressed that it resisted chipping/marking when putting the stakes into my vice to drill out & fix some of the bolt holes. I have no idea on how well it prevents rust though, lol.

 

[Casey835]

Ospho and paint of your choice


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

[Galt72]

Gall72,
Did you put two coats of the KBS on? The second coat after the first had cured? I had the exact same thing happen with Rust Bullet it came off in like sheet type pieces. I think it was because the first coat had cured and the adhesion was there for some reason.

377, it's been awhile now and I've forgotten the details. I do know I followed the directions exactly as stated. I did several coats. A few weeks later I noticed a bubble/lifting. I picked at it with a scraper and it all came off like it wasn't stuck at all. It's that we had complete opposite results. I think all this stuff sticks much better to sandblasted or ruffed up surfaces vs smooth metal.