Clutch linkage Help Please

[BBronco]

Can someone explain to me, or pictures would be great how this system goes together. I bought the bell crank kit from Tom's and I can't figure out how this goes together.

Also, I do not have the parts that are circled in red in one of the pictures. Where am I able to get them? The piece from pedal to rod, and the bushings for the clutch fork rod.

Thanks in advance!

Brock

 

[bronc50]

Your engine block appears to be the new style and requires an additional bracket available from all the vendors
This pic kind of shows the bracket for the front bolt

http://www.wildhorses4x4.com/product/EFI_Clutch_Equalizer_Conversion_Bracket

 

[DirtDonk]

What he said BB.
The later engines used hydraulic clutches for the most part. But even when mechanical, they typically had a different setup. So you need to adapt that piece in your second pic to fit. It's a simple piece we all sell. ( http://www.wildhorses4x4.com/product/EFI_Clutch_Equalizer_Conversion_Bracket )

The part circled in red is another matter entirely though. I could be wrong, but that should be a bar welded to the clutch pedal pivot tube. Part of the pedal in other words.
Not going to be available separately I would not think. Short of buying a new one though, that part is fairly basic and I would think that any competent welder could do it justice with just a piece of 1/4" plate steel. Drill it, weld it, pin it and away you go.
Does it look like there is a busted weld there where it should be?

The bushings and clips on the other hand should be easy.
Here's the bushing at the fork rod ( http://www.wildhorses4x4.com/product/Clutch_Fork_Push_Rod_Bushing ) but I'm not sure if the vendors service the exact clip or not. If not though, you should be able to come up with something semi-generic.

Paul

 

[BBronco]

Perfect thank you! It doesn't appear I have anything like that on my clutch pedal, I will probably just get everything else hooked up and like you suggest make my own. Possibly make the adapter for the newer block as well.

Thanks again for the clarification

 

[BBronco]

Oh another quick question, how does the clutch return spring mount?

 

[bronc50]

There is a hole on the end of the fork another on the front frame crossmember

 

[DirtDonk]

Yep. Or, as in my case, the other hole is on the engine mount tower.
Easy to find if you look. If it's not there, then that's still a convenient place to drill your own.
The spring will "fit" both ways, but you'll see that if you turn it one way it likes to catch on the edge of the mount. Spin it around and it will (mostly) miss.

Paul

 

[.94 OR]

I just replaced my clutch fork bushing with a shouldered brass bushing from the hardware store. I had to do some clean up on it but I think it will work real well.

The majority of the supporting vendor websites don't typically break down these small items very well on their websites (except WildHorses - kudos to them) so I think they may be missing some sales (hint hint).

 

[blubuckaroo]

Maybe you have two brake pedals rather than a clutch and brake pedal? The brake pedal doesn't have the tab on it you're missing.

 

[PaveBronco]

I just replaced my clutch fork bushing with a shouldered brass bushing from the hardware store. I had to do some clean up on it but I think it will work real well.

This is very good advice, Home Depot/Lowes has many different bushings and the oil impregnated brass type are much better than nylon. I also put one on the rod to the shift fork. Just don’t put one in the pedal side until you're done welding, or you'll un-impregnate all the oil from the bushing.....because that’s what I ended up doing, but bushings are cheap.

 

[KyleQ]

I only run one bolt and no clutch return spring - never had an issue. I just get the one bolt really right and I'm running a new diaphram style clutch - no noise.

I have the B.C adapter plate, but you have to drill out the hole in the block, very tough to do with an engine and trans mated up in the truck...

 

[blubuckaroo]

I only run one bolt and no clutch return spring - never had an issue. I just get the one bolt really right and I'm running a new diaphram style clutch - no noise.

I have the B.C adapter plate, but you have to drill out the hole in the block, very tough to do with an engine and trans mated up in the truck...

Without a return spring, how long do your throwout bearings last??:?

 

[blubuckaroo]

I just replaced my clutch fork bushing with a shouldered brass bushing from the hardware store. I had to do some clean up on it but I think it will work real well.

This is very good advice, Home Depot/Lowes has many different bushings and the oil impregnated brass type are much better than nylon. I also put one on the rod to the shift fork. Just don’t put one in the pedal side until you're done welding, or you'll un-impregnate all the oil from the bushing.....because that’s what I ended up doing, but bushings are cheap.

Another option is to use little heim rod ends. They are made in both male and female. I've replaced all my clutch joints with these. They are really smooth and give additional adjustment.http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/ecatalog/N-/No-112/Ntt-heim+joint

 

[KyleQ]

Without a return spring, how long do your throwout bearings last??:?

I've got two years on my current tob. They really make that big of a difference?

 

[blubuckaroo]

I've got two years on my current tob. They really make that big of a difference?

Oh yea. Even though the bearing won't have pressure on it, it would be spinning all the time. Same as if you were resting your foot on the clutch pedal all the time.