Cut down high pinion or stock Dana 44 - your input

[thegreatjustino]

Years ago I put a cut down high pinion Dana 44 under my '69. No real issues with hitting the oil pan or anything else due to the lift I'm running. In my never ending buying, trading, and selling of EB parts, I've ended up with an extra Dana 44 with the correct gearing to replace the high pinion one.

Is there any benefit or reason to swap to the stock Dana 44 over simply leaving the cut down high pinion unit? I did the high pinion swap back when I was first learning about Broncos and looking to upgrade the drum brake Dana 30 that was still in stock form. In hind sight, I'm not sure that I would have gone to the extent of the high pinion. Now that it's done, I'm not sure if I want to go to the extent of swapping to an OEM one.

Why would you do or not do this swap? I'm curious about the different perspectives there certainly will be here on the board.

 

[doran4x]

What lift? The hi pinion needs more suspension lift to clear but gives you a better driveshaft angle. Smaller lift with low pinion works fine.


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[DirtDonk]

If it works, why change it.
You say it already clears the pan and the pumpkin, but are you going to test that with any hard core four wheeling where you need the maximum suspension movement?

The current set up probably has more positive caster than any other axle you’re likely to have under a bronco. Certainly more than the standard bronco 44 unless you cut and turn the yokes.

Are you having difficulties with it right now that makes you contemplate the change?

 

[thegreatjustino]

Are you having difficulties with it right now that makes you contemplate the change?

A couple of thoughts in response to this.

1. The high pinion still needs to be regeared to match the rear after a rear gear change. The stock 44 I have already has the correct gearing.

2. The fabricator who narrowed it for me was also an EB guy and he preferred narrowing them 1" greater than an actual EB axle. So, my passenger side axle is one inch longer than a stock EB axle. A strange setup in hindsight and one I wouldn't do again. It's not likely that I'll ever have to change that passenger side axle, but if I ever do, I either need to buy a custom axle shaft or have the housing narrowed the additional inch so I can use a stock axle.

Both of these issues would be addressed by swapping in the stock front end.

 

[DirtDonk]

A gear change alone would I think certainly be justification for swapping the entire assembly.

 

[SteveL]

Just a thought but doesn't the cut down fw 44 have beefier axle shafts and u-joints compared to the stock eb 44?

 

[jamesroney]

A couple of thoughts in response to this.

1. The high pinion still needs to be regeared to match the rear after a rear gear change. The stock 44 I have already has the correct gearing.

2. The fabricator who narrowed it for me was also an EB guy and he preferred narrowing them 1" greater than an actual EB axle. So, my passenger side axle is one inch longer than a stock EB axle. A strange setup in hindsight and one I wouldn't do again. It's not likely that I'll ever have to change that passenger side axle, but if I ever do, I either need to buy a custom axle shaft or have the housing narrowed the additional inch so I can use a stock axle.

Both of these issues would be addressed by swapping in the stock front end.

I am on board with your fabricator. the notion of narrowing a HP housing to use the stock EB shafts is kind of silly. This is because it really doesn't use the stock EB shafts. It uses upgraded 5-760X joint shafts...which were never used. So the shafts are custom either way.

Most people shorten the passenger side by 6 inches, and the driver's side by 5/8 inch. Then you can use EB length shafts (and the left shaft happens to be the same length as 73-79 GM) . Some people shorten the passenger side by 6 inches, and leave the drivers side alone. Then you use one EB shaft, and one F150 shaft. But this makes the housing 5/8 longer than stock. Worse, it pushes the pumpkin toward the oil pan. I just built this one for my 1970, I'm at 3.5 lift, and I wish I had a little more clearance at the pan.

The reason why I'm moving towards custom length shafts is because of the myths and legends around axle shafts. I used to believe that rolled spline chrome moly shafts were the best. Superior Axle, and Foote Forge had data to prove it. But when was the last time you saw a Dana 44 shaft twist off at the spline? It never happens. The shafts fail at the end forging of the u-joint. Sure, if you never steer, you might twist off a shaft, but if you do..you are going to twist off the 19 spline stub shaft. Besides, the shafts are undercut a ton at the seal, and ends. So the "cut vs rolled" or "custom vs stock" spline discussion goes south in a hurry.

At the end of the day, it really all depends on how high you are lifted. Anything over stock and you need to cut an turn the knuckles if you want it to go straight down the highway. (or eat driveshaft u-joints) Once you get to 3.5 lift, the HP44 has some definite advantages. The tubes are thicker, and High pinion front is much stronger when driving forward.

How wide is the rear axle?

 

[Howard2x4x4]

James, I get a real strong impression that you've 'been there, done that'. Do you know if a D 44 HP cut down as you mentioned can use stock Bronco axles? If not, how hard (and pricey) is it to have the HP axles shortened? Thanks. Howard in beautiful West Michigan

 

[nvrstuk]

Like Paul said, go back to the LP for the cost of the new gears. Stock shafts or at least easily replaceable upgraded shafts are available also.

This coming from a guy who has nothing, I mean nothing stock on his Bronco.

I upgrade and fix everything before it needs fixing!! lol

 

[thegreatjustino]

How wide is the rear axle?

Stock EB rear end. Heavy duty big bearing '77 housing.

 

[SteveL]

Some guys add the wah from bc while cutting down the housing.

 

[jamesroney]

James, I get a real strong impression that you've 'been there, done that'. Do you know if a D 44 HP cut down as you mentioned can use stock Bronco axles? If not, how hard (and pricey) is it to have the HP axles shortened? Thanks. Howard in beautiful West Michigan

Hello,

I've done a few. The short answer is "yes." But language is a funny thing. Stock bronco axles use 5-260x axle shaft u-joints that no one wants. And if you just cut down a HP 44, you have a perfectly good 1976-79 axle that uses the bigger 5-297x (now 5-760x) joint. So the answer is "no."

This leaves you with the decision whether to cut the short side 5/8 inch and use the Bronco length 18.3 axle, or use the F150 length 18.9 axle, OR buy a GM short shaft, big joint 18.3 shaft. You can't cut and respline the short side, because the shafts are undercut between the spline and seal. So you need to cut off at least 3 inches.

On the long side, the HP shaft is plenty long, and plenty fat to cut and respline. I used to send mine to Moser in Indiana, and for $60 they would cut, respline, and machine the seal. Then some idiot decided to shut down commerce, and raise shipping rates to the moon. So now it costs $53 to ship. Add $53 plus $60 plus $53 back...and you've just paid for a brand new one from JBG.

Go Spartans. or Wolverines. West Michigan? Isn't that just a little north of Canada? eh?

 

[nvrstuk]

what James said... it's worth it to get axles that won't twist off the first time you go off road. Stock axles & joints on a Bronco were designed for, at best:

27" tall tires
4.10 ratios
3:1 first gear in that perky little 3 speed trans
NO real locker. Clutch yes, but not an ARB or Lincoln
An extra 1500+ lbs of gear, larger axle housings, larger axles, trannys, doublers, bigger t-cases, winches, skid plates, full roll cages, larger gas tanks, HD bumpers, rock skis... get the idea? ALL weight which means you need more torque to get you moving. All of these things cause axles and joints to break MUCH easier than you'd think.

IF you narrow the housing, upgrade the axles and joints. Cheap insurance cause they only break when you need them. lol

 

[Howard2x4x4]

Thanks guys for the knowledgeable input!

 

[bmc69]

FWIW..I've narrowed four HP44s over the years, all by taking 6" off the long side. I ran aftermarket axles in all of them. All went under EBs with 5" suspension lift, so no clearance issues.

 

[Howard2x4x4]

Just curious, what would be the downside of cutting the long tube down by 6 5/8 inches? Just guessing, but it would probably bring the pumpkin closer to the oil pan. I wonder if it would be too close, but I suspect not, depending on lift. Any thoughts? Thanks. Howard in beautiful West Michigan

 

[jamesroney]

Just curious, what would be the downside of cutting the long tube down by 6 5/8 inches? Just guessing, but it would probably bring the pumpkin closer to the oil pan. I wonder if it would be too close, but I suspect not, depending on lift. Any thoughts? Thanks. Howard in beautiful West Michigan

Yep, that’s the worst of all constraints. It moves the pumpkin into the pan, moves the driveshaft out of alignment with the transfer case, and it requires an oddball length RH axle.

For the OP, if you are lifted 3.5+, and have the choice between welded wedges HP and EB low pinion, go HP. Those tubes are 1/2 inch wall, and don’t bend as easily.

 

[SpecialFred]

Good evening everyone. I am just hopping in since I am now facing the decision to cut down my HP housing. From what I understand, cutting the 6" off the passenger side then cutting and resplining the shaft will work, it'll just move my pumpkin slightly closer to the oil pan. Is this correct? I have a 5.5" lift so it doesn't sounds like clearance will be much of an issue for me. Thanks for any help!

 

[bax]

I have a build thread on building a high pinion 44 in here somewhere. If anyone is interested search the Title : Building a high pinion 44. By bax. it has some good information and some pictures. I like pictures

 

[Seventee]

Good evening everyone. I am just hopping in since I am now facing the decision to cut down my HP housing. From what I understand, cutting the 6" off the passenger side then cutting and resplining the shaft will work, it'll just move my pumpkin slightly closer to the oil pan. Is this correct? I have a 5.5" lift so it doesn't sounds like clearance will be much of an issue for me. Thanks for any help!

Vendors sell the correct EB length passenger side inner shaft that utilizes the larger axle joint that is compatible with the HP outer stub shaft.