D60 narrowed in front with 16" ORI's w/ 3 1/2" lift? Who has squeezed one in?

[dclack]

I'm beginning to wonder if I'd be better off (money wise) trying a later model super duty axle and just have to shorten the passenger side rather than shortening and lengthening this one...??

You mean '85.5-'97 OBS axle, right? The Super Duty is not what you want.

Anybody have a D 60 (something other than the '78-9 D 60) that can measure the WMS on the drivers side to the pinion centerline pretty accurately- like within an inch? Be interesting to know if the later model D60's pinion centerline is moved over enough to help me w/o going full width...

thanks!

If GoFast doesn't beat me to it, I can try to measure the '88 kingpin in my Powerstroke tonight. And yes, there is tons of room under that F250 frame! ;D

 

[nvrstuk]

Text me with the number while your taking a nap under there tonight Darrin!! Appreciate it...!!

Yes I've already checked out the numbers on pirate showing the later model king pin and BJ Dana 60s. It's that "about" number I'm concerned about!!! Thanks for posting that tho . if the measurement is not accurate I will be screwed as I have about 1/2" to play with... it's gonna be close.

 

[dclack]

I spent most of the weekend on the topside of the truck (dang PITA turbos!), now you need me to crawl under it!

 

[nvrstuk]

Locate those bolts you couldn't find from above, right??

 

[dclack]

Well, I've had the turbo out before so I know where the bolts are, but getting anything other than one finger on them is another story! And the only reason I had to pull it is because the fuel line fitting in the back of the head was leaking and it so dang close that you can't remove it with the turbo in. %)

 

[GoFastCrackPipe]

Here are the measurements from my '89...
From the drivers side kingpin to the pinion center it's between 15" and 15.5". I can get more accurate phots/measurements on Wednesday if you want. I was in a hurry when I got these.

Figured pics were better...

 

[akirshbom]

I saw a non narrowed dana 60 on a Bronco once with some stock H1 wheels that looked great and made the dana 60 look narrowed. Those wheels have like 8" backspacing so it's like narrowing the axle 6".

I ran mine like that for years! Work d great


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

[t120r]

My '05 Superduty axle would fit like a charm if it was narrowed 5". The pumpkin would sit exactly where it should and turning radius wouldn't be obstructed. Mine is at stock lift right now. Kind of tight though.

 

[dclack]

Here are the measurements from my '89...
From the drivers side kingpin to the pinion center it's between 15" and 15.5". I can get more accurate phots/measurements on Wednesday if you want. I was in a hurry when I got these.

Figured pics were better...

I talked to him on the phone last night got him what he needed. The OBS D60 is 24" from drivers WMS to center of pinion with 3" between the 'C' knuckle and pumpkin (but there's only about 2-3/4" of useable space due to the welded 'C').

 

[nvrstuk]

So Darrin's 1997 D60 is 24" WMS to pinion centerline... 2 3/4" exposed tube drivers side

Snofighter D60 is WMS to 26 1/2" to pinion centerline... 5 1/2" exposed tube drivers side

The snofighter has 5 1/2" btw the cast diff housing and the inner "C" knuckle allowing max of 4" to be narrowed (need 1 1/2" space to weld Cage bracket on) from that drivers side to move the diff housing out from under the oil pan and tranny shift linkage... essentially moving the differential towards the drivers side frame rail 1 1/2" (not much).

Snofighter needs to 2 1/2" cut down JUST to match Darrin's D60 and then still have 1 more inch MAX that could be cut out and still weld in Cage arm brackets- now 1 1/2" narrower than Darrins stock axle.

Darrins could have appr 1"+ cut out and still leave 1 1/2-1 3/4" to weld Cage brkts making it almost a wash between the two...

Advantage?? Neither really.. they come out to appr 1/2" of each other...

IF you don't go full width you WILL have differential interference at rest with the oil pan and with several automatics since they are generally wider than manuals.


My current D44 sits with it's pinion in the EXACT same location as Darrin's D60 and is also 24" pinion to WMS...so that helps me visualize placement a bit more now...

My "new" replacement Monster beadlocks are 5" BS compared to my other 4" BS wheels so that allows me to move the diff over another inch added to the narrowing of tube by 1 1/2" (effectively), if I move the wheel another 1 1/2" outside the fender and I hit the magic 3 1/2"- 4" I need for clearance...crap, nothing's easy huh??!!

Then after doing the trial fit under the Bronco and checking full stuff, etc, I'd figure out how much tube to add to the other side to match...HECK of a lot of work but I don't want 6" of tire sticking out on each side flinging mud and rock everywhere behind the 1/2 cab! (I'm probably going to end up with 4" on each side...) : (

I'll try to post a couple more pics of the snofighter with measurements and tire placement to the fender for reference...

FW axles allows you to move the entire axle over which gives you plenty of pan clearance...that makes it easy...

Some steering knuckles don't take kindly to 6+" of BS on wheels...

 

[SavageBurro]

Unless your D60 is already built the way you want (gears lockers etc), it seems like you could sell that for quite a bit because they are in such high demand. Then you could buy a newer bj d60 for less and simply narrow the passenger side 5". Depending on the type of brackets you use, you might have to trim a tiny bit off where the diff meets the tube on the driver side. Would fit great and seems like a lot less work. I know bj is not as desirable as king pin but they're still pretty friggin stout.

 

[nvrstuk]

Understand what your saying...but I'm keeping this one. It's already loaded with ARB, 5.13's, etc.

Shortening a later model axle 5" on the pass side will make it fit but will still will move the drivers side WMS out 2+" more than I want... So I'll narrow this one (even tho it's already been shortened some) on one side and lengthen it on the other...

I've come to the conclusion that almost any D60 will fit if you just shove the WMS out the drivers side far enough to put the diff where you it fits... then trim or don't shorten it...

 

[nvrstuk]

I don't see how you can get more than 4 inches of travel with a 3 1/2" susp lift with a Dana 60 in front! I've got mine where I can get 3 1/2 inches between the motor mount bracket and the D60 diff..LOL

I'll include a picture so you can tell me how to fix this...

 

[nvrstuk]

I've got almost 6" to the pan, it's the motor mount, and frame I'm hitting now...I'm in the stock location front to back. If I move it forward an inch the area at the top where the diff cover mounts to the diff hits in 3" of up travel... moving it back further would actually help...

I think I'd like some more pics Savageburro. Send them pm maybe? I clear my tranny shifter linkage (horizontal shaft sticking out the side just above the pan by about 1" right now. I might have to try sliding the diff back towards the pan and trim some of the webbing off the diff to clear the pan more but maybe it will clear the motor mount bracket a bit better...it's currently hitting the stock drag link mounting bracket on the drivers side so I know it's getting cut...

The gaping hole in the frame is where my Fox bump stops were in case anybody is wondering how I did that!! lol


I'll move it around some more tomorrow....I "need" 6" of up-travel same as the rear...thanks for updates ...swapping one inch of body lift for one inch or suspension sounds good but over the past couple of decades I've incorporated too many things into the body lift...plus I just lowered seat floors, etc since I didn't think this would be such an issue...

 

[Yeller]

I know it sounds butch but I've actually gone so far as cutting the frame and raising it right over the chunk and re work the motor mount, not on a bronco but same concept. I also have a friend with a bronco that is reworked the same way. I should do better about taking pics.... I always say it's only metal and it was made to be cut

 

[dclack]

Man! I'm starting to wonder if a D60 is the right way for you to go. Have you considered an F250 8-lug D44 HD? The smaller pumpkin might give you the extra inches you need.

 

[nvrstuk]

Yeah Steve, that's what I decided on last night...motor mount and frame will have to be "clearanced" for another 2" of up travel...

for reference, the pics above are at ride height... bit tight Darrin??!! : )

I briefly thought about reducing the body lift and adding to the susp lift but as you know, the new 4 link mounts are fully welded in, the seat floors have been lowered 2", the new relocated body mounts are already located and welded in, the ORI mounts and links have all been designed for this stance...low is the way to go (I say that as I'm stuffing true 40" tall tires under it). HA

I think the shorty header is going to need some slight alterations also...

 

[KyleQ]

I don't see why a full width D44 and wheel choice isn't the easiest option here. RCV shafts are rated to 39.5" tires and the D60 is a heavy, low clearance boat anchor. I can't imagine you are going to be all that hardcore with 4" of lift - maybe 37" tires?

 

[SavageBurro]

I'm heading out of town for a few days and can take a bunch of pics and measurements early next week for ya. I think my diff is slightly more toward the oil pan than yours and I think my oil pan might have more clearance than what yours is showing. I am running the explorer oil pan. I dunno off the top of my head without looking whether it's any different than stock bronco pan.

If your axle is already loaded - I'd keep it too.

Just an fyi, My axle is a 94 f350 hp bj d60 that I narrowed 5" on pass side (64 wms); the punkin fits perfectly between frame and oil pan and the tires stick out from the body the same amount on both sides. I think my rims are 9" with 4" backspacing. The tires stick out about 2" more per side than they did w stock d44.

After I installed the coils - I never measured the actual amount of lift I got over stock. I just installed the 3.5" coils from tbp and assumed they are 3.5" lift coils. And... as noted earlier I added about 1/2" material to the bottom of the coil cups so the coils sit flat.

Also - I have never looked at your year d60. I wonder if it has additional material on the top side compared to a newer one. I'd be guessing but I'd guess it wouldn't be that different.

 

[nvrstuk]

I'm running 40" MTR's, 4 linked in the rear, I've broken 3 sets of leaf springs, I snap a leaf spring hanger about once/year, last year I twisted a 35 spline ARB in half, I've snapped 1 3/8" DOM anti-wrap in half, etc...I'm hard on parts... I really baby it in 4 wheel because even with CTM's and Superior Chrome-Moly axles I know the 44 is my weak point...tired of never being able to spin a tire on a rock in fear of a ball joint or the ring and pinion leaving me stranded...

I am designing this for 6" up travel in the rear which I have and won't quit til I have 6" up travel in the front... I sold a 60 12 years ago because they are PIGS but I want the strength now...

I want the COG as low as possible with something this size...