D60 swap -Best rear axle to match? And a few questions

[u0061914]

I ran across a real nice dana 60 this week. Kingpin, high pinion, Detroit, 5.13s, yukons etc for a hell of a deal, so it looks like I now have a winter project on my hands.

A couple of questions:

1. What is my best choice for a matching rear? Considering cost, strength parts, etc? Dana 60, Dana 70, 14 bolt, Sterling 10.25? Any hints on what to look for?

2. Anyone have any write ups on the D60 swap? I am running Duff's radius arms and want to use those, so I can weld the wedges on to use those. Have not thought about what to do for steering yet.


If anyone has pics, please share.

 

[Yeller]

For cool factor, a full float 9" is at the top of the list for me, really want to build one for myself. But for budget, simplicity and strength, 14 bolt, they are hard to beat for the cost and virtually any locker you may want is available for them. The others are all below that, IMO they are more expensive, need more work to use, parts cost more and strength is less.

 

[SavageBurro]

Congrats on the find. Are you going to run full width? What size tire? 14 bolt is a beast. Probably best strength for the buck but the diff hangs really low. So unless you run really big tires then I'd pass on 14 bolt... or you can shave it and have the ring machined down, but that negates the inexpensive aspect. Stength wise- my buddy runs his shaved14 bolt in his ultra4 w 600 hp that sees about as much abuse imaginable. He's gone through a few trans, atlas, motors, driveshafts etc and has never had an issue w the 14 bolt (that's saying a lot).
If budget doesn't matter as much then a fully built 9 inch is pretty cool. Don't know much about the d70 (other than I have one in a 79 dodge 1 ton that takes a serious beating and never complains). D60 rear can be built stout w decent ground clearance but youll be replacing everything. I'm a fan of the late 90s sterling 10.25. They're very stout and have better clearance than 14 bolt. Locker choices are a bit limited. You can get arb, ox and lockright for sure (not sure about others). They're plentiful and inexpensive in my area. I've had pinion issues with earlier sterlings. If you're narrowing.... you can narrow the sterling to use two factory length short side shafts (which are stout).
Not sure if that helps. All can be good choices depending on budget and axle availability in your area. I'd lean more toward the 70 or sterling but thats just me and I seem to always be on a tight budget. If you're not in a hurry maybe wait until you find a similar deal on a rear already set up?

 

[u0061914]

Yes, I will be running full width. Have not completely decided on the tire size yet, but a 40"ish tire is what I am thinking. Like most folks, yes there is a balance between the cost and the outcome. I certainly don't want to spend sh*t loads of cash, but want to do it right too.

I actually run a full spool right now on my 9", so either a spool or welded would be adequate honestly. I do drive on the road occasionally, but not very often.

Appreciate the info

 

[Toddpole]

I'm a fan of the 9" for strength but the leak prone axle seals are a pain. That said, I've always thought a 609 style rear (960?) would be sweet. 9" housing with 60 spindles, hubs, etc. 31 spline is simple with stock 60 shafts and can easily be upgraded to 35 spline with readily available parts. The only custom part is the housing with 60 spindles welded on. All other parts can be had off the shelf.

 

[broncosbybart]

Another vote for the 14 bolt. I shaved the bottom to match the Barnes4wd diff cover. I didn't feel like going crazy with it like the TMR kit does.

The 14 bolt is cheap and easy to regear. Basically the same design as a 9".

 

[bmc69]

I'm a 10.25 fan. Dirt cheap to buy..stout.. Not necessarily dirt cheap to build though..depending on the route you take.

I've got a '79 Kingpin 60 with ARB locker in front and 10.25 with Auburn LS in back of my '78.

 

[u0061914]

Does anyone know a good way to ID what year this D60 came from? I know there might be something stamped on the front axle tube, but the tab for the hydro cylinder is there

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[u0061914]

I'm a 10.25 fan. Dirt cheap to buy..stout.. Not necessarily dirt cheap to build though..depending on the route you take.

I've got a '79 Kingpin 60 with ARB locker in front and 10.25 with Auburn LS in back of my '78.

Any particular year that I would seek out if I went this route(10.25)?

 

[SavageBurro]

Decent Sterling Article:
http://www.fourwheeler.com/how-to/transmission-drivetrain/129-0506-ford-1025-1050-inch-axle-tips/

93-98 in my opinion are great years; still have 8x6.5 bolt pattern and better pinion design. I have blown the pinion on a few late 80s 10.25 but my 94 10.25 is solid.

As a side bar / tangent: If you run hydroboost for your 1 tons - I use an astro hydroboost, 78 Camaro master cylinder, 94 F350 d60 stock dual caliper disc front and 94 Sterling 10.25 stock drum rear through the stock bronco distribution block (no prop valve) and it stops excellent. Front rear bias seems perfect. Not overly sensitive but it feels like it would stop 52s without a problem.

 

[SavageBurro]

Another interesting read: http://www.fourwheeler.com/how-to/t...401-sterling-reputation-axle-upgrade-options/

 

[cesco]

I'm a 14B fan as far as being cheap, reliable, more gear & locker options. The stock shafts are 1.5" diameter same as the sterling

As far as ground clearance goes, it has a 10.5" ring gear so I wouldn't think the difference between it and the sterling wouldn't even be noticeable.

 

[Apogee]

I'm a 14B fan as far as being cheap, reliable, more gear & locker options. The stock shafts are 1.5" diameter same as the sterling

As far as ground clearance goes, it has a 10.5" ring gear so I wouldn't think the difference between it and the sterling wouldn't even be noticeable.

The ground clearance difference is noticeable visually due to the housing desgins/shape...not sure what the actual dimensional difference is, but I'd guess it's more than an inch. The Sterling is more similar to a Dana 70(U) than the 14-bolt, which is a boat anchor any way you measure it. Given how much my friend hangs up on his 14-bolt under his '78 Bronco on 43" TSL/SX's, I wouldn't run one where I do without a shave kit.

 

[AxlesUp]

The 10.25/10.5 is huge and cheap. their basically free around here. disk brake kits are cheap and easy to scrounge up with off the shelf parts. lockers are a little more pricey and the selection is somewhat limited.

I'm with apogee the profile on the 10.25/10.5 is much better than the 14 bolt and i feel like the housing itself is much beefier. with that said the 14 bolt has a huge aftermarket support.

personally i would rather have a 60 rear or a 9" with a nice housing simply for ground clearance/weight reasons, but if your running 40s who cares about any of that LoL

I currently have a 10.25 because cheap cheap cheap and i used to have 40s.


edit :
from the second linked article: "The Sterling doesn’t need much help since it provides 1.25 inches more ground clearance than the 14-bolt in stock form."

 

[KyleQ]

This is your new friend-
http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/60_front/

Your axle is a 1988-91.5

I say build a sterling - they are really tough, find one with disk brakes out of the yard.

Although if you can find a D70U with the super smooth bottom, go for that.

 

[Scott C.]

That looks like an 80's model? The 78-79 model is longer on the short side and shorter on the long side than the later one. I have 2 of them under my 95YJ, I used spindles from a Dana 70 single wheel rear end to convert one of them to a rear end.

 

[u0061914]

Thanks Guys, Sterling it is for the rear.


Another question on the front D60. It looks like the preferable 78/79 D60s have the diff moved toward the center by about 3.5', which would make the install much easier. With this axle, I am still a bit confused as to how to center the axle, mount the radius arms (Duff's) and mount the lower spring cup. I know that I can use the weld on wedges. Looks like I would have to cut the spring perch and that part of the housing, but will it still get the axle over far enough?

Or, if I use the Cage weld on mounts for the Duff's arms, then how do I mount the lower coil spring cup. Is there a bracket available, or would I need to build my own?

Also, am I going to run into clearance issues with my full length headers? Eyeing it it up, it looks like I might

If someone could post some pictures that would be extremely helpful.
While the D60 I found is a fantastic deal, I have not gone to get it yet( 5+ hours drive), so if its not the best choice, I can still pass on it. Would I be better off passing on this one and looking for a 78/79?

Appreciate all the help. A bit of a learning curve for this install. Again, while this is a great deal, if its not the best choice, I can certainly pass on it.

 

[Scott C.]

Also, 78-79 axles are a different diameter at the inner seal. They are, I think, 1/8" smaller.

 

[Monster Mike]

Ya, I like the 10.25. Its worked well for us on our crawler for over 7 years now. Haven't done a thing to it except weld up the spider gears (lincoln locker) We are running the same front axle you shared a picture of. Easy to make a small notch and weld the c wedges on it so you can retain your head unit and C bushings. We've found the c bushing setup allows the head unit bushings to live longer vs the weld on axle mounts.

you're on the right track Mike!