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damn mechanical fuel pump!

74bronk

Full Member
Joined
Sep 1, 2004
Messages
358
my fuel pump went out. has anyone ever converted to a electrical fuel pump on a carburated vehicle? if so how dificult would it be?
 

70_Steve

Old Guy
Joined
Dec 13, 2002
Messages
8,317
my fuel pump went out. has anyone ever converted to a electrical fuel pump on a carburated vehicle? if so how dificult would it be?
A bunch of us run electric fuel pumps on a carburated vehicle. One of the most popular (and the one I ran) is the Carter P4070. The level of difficulty depends on your mechanical abilities!!!

You would want to mount the fuel pump as close to the fuel tank as practical. I mounted mine on the inside of the frame, just above the differential. Your choice as to how to deal with the fuel line. I ran all new steel line on the outside of the frame for several reasons, not the least of which is to help prevent vapor lock when running in the AZ desert in the summer. Some reuse the original plastic line. For power to the pump it's probaby best to install a relay, powered off the hot-in-run wire from the ignition switch. Also a good idea to install an oil pressure safety switch, or an inertia switch from an EFI setup, just in case...
 

VT_Don

Sr. Member
Joined
Aug 16, 2001
Messages
365
'74bronk, mechanical pumps are usually dead reliable. Of all the questionable components to improve upon, I'd invest elsewhere. Unfortunately, even Carter pumps are now imported. Though quality is just fine. Only pump failure I had was a fancy, Holley chrome pump that dislodged a check valve on the Maine Turnpike. Was thankful it weren't the Alagash during deer season.

Electric pumps do have their place. But as mentioned, can be disasterous if continuing to run after a wreck.
 

ObscureMachine

Seatbelt Orifice Officer
Joined
Sep 28, 2006
Messages
3,998
Loc.
World Headquarters
I installed the Carter 4070 on mine. I also installed a relay harness and an oil pressure switch that kills the pump if the engine quits. I also installed a hidden kill switch that interrupts ground to the relay and keeps the pump from working. I used rubber fuel line from the tank to the pump, aluminum fuel line along the frame and braided SS line to the carb. So far, no problems.
 

VaBeachBronco

New Member
Joined
Nov 7, 2010
Messages
6
Loc.
Virginia Beach, VA
Maybe you guys can help with my fuel pump issue as well. My 67 is hard starting if I haven't started it in a few days. It starts right up if I prime the carb with some gas before I try to start it, but if I don't prime it, it takes a lot of cranking. There doesn't seem to be any other fuel pump issues.
I'm curious if installing a new mechanical pump or changing to electric would fix this problem. Is it possible to install a one way valve in the line and if so would it help?

Thanks!
 

Explorer

Bronco Guru
Joined
Mar 2, 2008
Messages
4,390
Loc.
Raphine, Virginia
Agree, nothing wrong with either stock or electric as long as the things mentioned are done for safety. VaBeachBronco: leak back shouldn't be your problem. There should be enough fuel in the bowls for it to start. Shouldn't evaporate in just a few day's.
 

blubuckaroo

Grease Monkey
Joined
Jun 11, 2007
Messages
11,795
Loc.
Ridgefield WA
Maybe you guys can help with my fuel pump issue as well. My 67 is hard starting if I haven't started it in a few days. It starts right up if I prime the carb with some gas before I try to start it, but if I don't prime it, it takes a lot of cranking. There doesn't seem to be any other fuel pump issues.
I'm curious if installing a new mechanical pump or changing to electric would fix this problem. Is it possible to install a one way valve in the line and if so would it help?

Thanks!

The reason you have to crank a lot after sitting for a few days is the gasoline is perking and evaporating out of the fuel bowl. Gasoline has a lower boiling point than the fuel when these cars were made. Some have replaced their mechanical pump with electric so they can prime the carbureter before starting it. It is best to fix that problem because it is washing the oil off the cylinder walls and deluting the motor oil in the crankcase. I have pretty much fixed mine by blocking the intake heat riser port and added a heat spacer under the carbureter.
 

jboomer

Sr. Member
Joined
Oct 17, 2007
Messages
506
Loc.
Havelock, NC
Maybe you guys can help with my fuel pump issue as well. My 67 is hard starting if I haven't started it in a few days. It starts right up if I prime the carb with some gas before I try to start it, but if I don't prime it, it takes a lot of cranking. There doesn't seem to be any other fuel pump issues.
I'm curious if installing a new mechanical pump or changing to electric would fix this problem. Is it possible to install a one way valve in the line and if so would it help?

Thanks!

I had the exact same issue and replaced two mech fuel pumps thinking they were the problem. I rebuilt the carb Ina whim and haven't had an issue since.
 

crtilghman

Full Member
Joined
Jun 24, 2010
Messages
220
electric is the only one that i haven't had problems with but i carry a mechanical in the tool bag
 

chuck

Bronco Guru
Joined
Aug 14, 2001
Messages
6,474
Loc.
Ingram, Texas
You can run a mech. and a elec. pump in series. The mech pump will suck through the elec. pump and the elec pump will push through the mech pump I have this setup on my crawler so when the main tank runs out I switch to the aux tank/elec. pump.
 
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