dana 20 j shift rebuild

[Kegger]

mine keeps popping out of high. I supose to many hole shots, anyway Iam getting the master kit from WH with shaft and also the springs: balls. for detent. were going to do this again. last one was done 1.5 years ago. she gotta handle about 350 RWHP max. I can't belive a little 331 stroker smoken 2 of these, I must be doing somthing wrong I did'nt do the shaft or main bearings. looked good to me. Know shes lifted 3.5 any SECRETS somthing about tighter rear lash? about The rear is hd currie and strieght online with the transfer I do have some loose cross member 2 ea bolts and she broke seal behind the c-4, know leaking.

 

[70_Steve]

mine keeps popping out of high.

Make sure when you set up the rear output shaft assembly, you set up the bearings with a preload, instead of the 0.003-0.005" endplay that Spicer specs. Set it up with 5-7 in/lbs rotating torque without the yoke seal. This will keep the rear output shaft more in-line with the input shaft, so the rear sliding gear doesn't walk.

 

[Rustytruck]

What shifter are you using. Hopefully not a worn out stocker.

 

[Viperwolf1]

In addition to what Steve said, lots of things could be out of wack. Look hard at the engagement lugs on the input gear. If they are getting tapered on the drive side it will force the sliding gear back into neutral. Also if the intermediate bearing is sloppy it will create movement between the input gear and output shaft/sliding gear. You could even add a 0.010" shim between the bearing and input gear to move the gear back a little bit and tighten it up on the spud shaft.

Look for loose or worn shift forks. The set screw needs to hold the fork tight to the rail. The pads on the forks need to fit tightly in the sliding gear collars. People that use bungie cords to hold a shifter in place are just wearing out these contact areas between the forks and gears, making a bad situation worse. I've thrown out forks and gears because of this. I suppose the forks could be welded back up though. Gear collars would be tough to fix.

The cluster gear shaft gets worn from the 48 needle bearings that roll around it in all gear positions. Eventually that wear will allow the cluster gear to wobble slightly. Always replace that shaft during a rebuild.

T style shift rails suck. They don't have good detent positions for the balls. The reason for this was because the way the single stick shifter worked. The rear rail had to engage a specific range before the front rail and the front rail had to come out before the rear rail. I prefer to use the J rails when possible. When not possible I will modify T rails to make them more like the J rails.

 

[NicksTrix]

what a wealth of info viper is. major guru points.
this is perfect example of why this site is so good. people willing share & nominal drama

 

[Kegger]

Yea 10-4, nice info will make it happen this time the shifters a james duff single. When it started was a 5200 rpm down shift on the freeway me f.... around now it wont hold much rpm to do a normal cruise. all the tricks will come in handy thanks.

 

[Rustytruck]

Well you have a good shifter. I use the same shifter.

 

[ckuck]

I have a dana 20 j shift sitting on my bench that I have rebuild it the bull gear is bad gona end up as a spare