• Just a reminder that you won't be able to start new posts or reply to existings posts in the Archive forum.

    This is where all the old posts go so they can still be used for reference and searched.
  • Welcome to ClassicBroncos! - You are currently viewing the forums as a GUEST. To take advantage of all the site features, please take a moment to register. It's fast, simple and absolutely free. So please join our community today!
    If you have problems registering or can't log into your account, please contact Admin.

Dana 44 Pinion Seal/Lock-right

md_lucky_13

Sr. Member
Joined
Feb 20, 2004
Messages
371
Loc.
Idaho
Hi everyone,

I have got a question. Over the past few months, my front Dana 44 pinion seal has been slowly going out. It has finnally given up the ghost, and it looks like it is time to replace the darn thing. But, I have decided to do a little more work to the front end while I am going through the trouble.

I have already bought a lock-right.. Mostly because it is really cheap, and should be effective for what I need right now, but, most importantly, since I will not have to re-set the pinion after I am finished... This is extremely important. There are no places around here that are reliable to do it, and I just flat out don't trust anyone to work on my rig after a few experiences.....

Here is my question: on the Dana 44, is the pinion seal a crush sleave like on the rear 9"? Or, does it fit in more like an axle seal? Will I be able to replace the pinion seal without having to re-set the entire pinion for backlash, depth, etc. etc. etc.?? I'm comfortable doing all of the work, unless it involves adjusting the pinion.. I don't have the tools of knowledge for something like that.

Also, does anyone have any good blow by blow pictures/words about installing a lock-right in a front Bronco Dana 44? Do you have to pull the entire carrier to get it done? Do you have to pull the front axles to do it, or can it be done without pulling them? Any advice from experience?

I know that is a lot of questions, but I really appreciate any help or advice you can offer. I'm not affraid to jump in and try things, but I don't want to go in over my head.. Thanks in advance!
 

broncnaz

Bronco Guru
Joined
May 22, 2003
Messages
24,341
The D-44 seal is pretty easy just pull the yoke replace the seal and retorque.
As for the lock right install I cant really help you there as I've never done one myself but for what its worth my understanding is that as long as you can remove the pinion shaft(or cross shaft) without having to remove the ring gear than it is an easy install axle shafts, carrier, ect can stay inplace. I believe on most of the lower gear ratios 4.11 4.56 ect that the pinion shaft cant be removed unless the ring gear is removed so if you have 3.50 gears I think you will be ok.
 

welndmn

Bronco Guru
Joined
Nov 12, 2001
Messages
2,112
The Dana 44 pinion uses Shims, so as long as you don't loose any your fine.
Just remove the yoke, take a screw driver and pop the seal out, install new seal, put yoke back on, use lock tite, yoke torque is around 110-120 i think.

Lock-rite is easy, Remove the axles, remove roll pin from carrier, remove cross shaft, remove spider gears, install lock right, no resetting anything there.
 

NeverSatisfied

Full Member
Joined
Aug 2, 2004
Messages
333
Loc.
Spring, TX
Since the seal has already been explained (other than Hayne's lists yoke nut torque at 200 ft-lbs). If you're doing a lockright it is pretty straight forward, but if you're dealing with a factory installed carrier, I don't think you could get any of the carriers out I've worked on without a housing spreader (or prying the crap out of the carrier).

anyway to get the lock-right in. Remove the carrier, unbolt the ring gear, pop out the spring clip that retains the post thingy, pound out the post, remove the side gears and spider gears, put your lockright in, and re-install everthing.
 
OP
OP
md_lucky_13

md_lucky_13

Sr. Member
Joined
Feb 20, 2004
Messages
371
Loc.
Idaho
This is exactly the info that I was looking for.. Thank you very, very much.


If I remove the ring-gear, do I have to re-adjust the pinion? Or since I am not removing the pinion gear, just the ring gear, will the shims remain in place and I won't have to reset?

I guess I will look into a housing spreader.. Anyone know if those places that rent tools, like schucks, would have something like that off the top of your head?
 

NeverSatisfied

Full Member
Joined
Aug 2, 2004
Messages
333
Loc.
Spring, TX
I got to thinking about that one after I posted, If you can get the "guts" out without removing the ring gear, I'd leave it on, but on my 3.50 ratio carrier, I had to remove the ring gear to get the rest out.

I would think that if you marked the position of the ring gear on the carrier and was sure to put it back in the same postion, you'd be okay. You might want to check your wear pattern with some marking grease after you got it put back together just to be sure. No shims will fall out when removing th carrier, they're pressed on under the carrier bearings. If you can find a housing spreader, borrow one (they're around 2-300 bucks).

Maybe someone else can comment on that one.
 

supermottl

Bronco Guru
Joined
Feb 18, 2002
Messages
2,360
Loc.
Indian Harbour Bch,
I don't think You'll need a carrier spreader, I just re-eared my D44, and didn't need one. It wasn't that hard. Just take your time.
Yeah, and Haynes says to torque pinion nut to 200 lbs.
 
Top