Dark side and no body lift??

[OX1]

Seems the 302 in my 70 is toast. Crapload of blowby out of crankcase and pushing out the dipstick. It's not PCV, as I ran a large open line straight off valve cover (no PCV valve) to back of fender and it still pushes oil out dipstick hole onto the header. Odd this thing was fine not 100 miles ago .

Anyway, I parted my 78 mud bronc, so I am going to drop the 460 into the 79, I use to tow my boat. That leaves a healthy cammed/chained 400-4bbl with nowhere to go.

Would be keeping the T-18, so that won't be an issue. Also will keep manifolds. Already have the 3.5 susp lift, don't want to go any higher (read no body lift). Have no problems hacking firewall and/or getting tall hood.

What am I looking at to do get this in? I know the basics on motor mounts, clutch, etc... Mostly looking at what needs to be done to firewall and radiator support. Also is routing exh on drivers side even possible with a manual?? An finally, will upgraded stock size alum radiator (the one we all got real cheap couple years back) cut it on the street?

 

[bax]

With no body lift the hard part will be the brake system. Getting anything past that drivers side valve cover will be a challenge. also you may as well cut the inner fenders up to the shock towers. the exhaust is going to burn them up anyway. You will have to notch the passenger side firewall to clear the head. The valve cover on that side just does come off. I actually slotted my mounts so I could move the entire power train forward. had to do that because I used head studs. the head will not come off unless I slide it forward. Don't use head studs. oh yeah the 205 will be touching your body. Hard. you may need to notch back there too.

 

[OX1]

With no body lift the hard part will be the brake system. Getting anything past that drivers side valve cover will be a challenge. also you may as well cut the inner fenders up to the shock towers. the exhaust is going to burn them up anyway. You will have to notch the passenger side firewall to clear the head. The valve cover on that side just does come off. I actually slotted my mounts so I could move the entire power train forward. had to do that because I used head studs. the head will not come off unless I slide it forward. Don't use head studs. oh yeah the 205 will be touching your body. Hard. you may need to notch back there too.

Thanks Bax

I have my HB angled already, but will move it and/or get an angle bracket if needed. Not running a 205, keeping the D20. Just a street rig, so no need really. Hopefully Bill is bringing his to Rausch in a couple weeks, I can get a fresher look at it.

 

[bax]

core support will give you a problem too.

 

[Devin]

Good news with the D20/T18 combo is that you should be ok with your existing transfer case cross-member. I didn't have to move mine at all with the NP435/D20 combo. For the radiator, I flipped my mount supports over to the other side of the front core support panel, just to suck the raddy in real close to the support. In retrospect, I think that I could have gotten away with leaving the rad mounts where they were. But, I have room now and was easily able to fit a fan shroud in there.

Without a body lift you will have to cut the firewall and move it back. Even with a 2" body lift, I had to cut the firewall so that the driver's side valve cover wouldn't hit. I only cut a small portion of the firewall near the gas pedal support. I suppose that you could move the drivetrain forward some to avoid this, but then you would have to move your cross member and you would definitely have to move the raddy mounts forward.

 

[OX1]

I'll have to check out your build thread again
to see your rad mounts.

I have an entire firewall section from a buddy
who just cut up a really sad 77.

 

[bax]

I did not use my radiator mounts either. I removed the top one all together and for the bottom I mounted an aluminum angle on the horns. Set is so the back part of the angle trapped the radiator against the core support. Then I built a sheet metal mount that lipped over the back side of the radiator and bolted to the stock holes in the radiator. Much like a typical GM mount of the 70's . This saved me about 1 1/4'' I did not cut my firewall or my core support.