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Dented/Creased Fenders - Why so typical?

mhinchliffe

Jr. Member
Joined
Dec 21, 2018
Messages
107
Not knowing the reason for the creases in my front fenders, I was wondering if any of you guys could shed some light on the most likely possibilities...
 

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ford man

Bronco Guru
Joined
Aug 31, 2008
Messages
2,214
Loc.
Leesburg Ga
Usually it is the front bumper bends back into the grill then the fender is the weak link then you have the kinked fender
 

Scoop

Contributor
Have Bronco, Will Travel
Joined
Feb 1, 2006
Messages
10,657
Loc.
Cuchara, CO
Yes, what ford man said. Look for bumper marks on the lower grille.
 

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Rustytruck

Bronco Guru
Joined
Feb 24, 2002
Messages
10,875
dont run into trash cans and shopping carts. put a piece of 2x2 1/4 wall steel tube behind the front bumper and bolt it in using the bumperette holes in the bumper minor bumps wont fold the bumper and everything looks stock.
 

377

Sr. Member
Joined
Aug 24, 2012
Messages
372
Loc.
The Bluegrass State
I have creased front fenders just like that. My rig spent its whole life as a hunting rig in southern Montana. I suspect someone did a couple sweet jumps in it at some point. My question is does anyone have any advice on pulling out the creases? I was thinking about removing the grill and putting something (2x4 lumber)behind the grill flange on the fender then hooking a strap to the 2x4 then hooking up to a tree and throwing it in reverse. If anyone has better suggestions I’d be really happy to hear them, until I build up the courage to hook my rig to a tree!
 

1970 Palmer

Full Member
Joined
Mar 2, 2020
Messages
455
I have creased front fenders just like that. My rig spent its whole life as a hunting rig in southern Montana. I suspect someone did a couple sweet jumps in it at some point. My question is does anyone have any advice on pulling out the creases? I was thinking about removing the grill and putting something (2x4 lumber)behind the grill flange on the fender then hooking a strap to the 2x4 then hooking up to a tree and throwing it in reverse. If anyone has better suggestions I’d be really happy to hear them, until I build up the courage to hook my rig to a tree!

I'm far from a "certified body man".

I'm currently rebuilding a 1970 "rolled over" Bronco. I find it's much better to do the majority of the rough reshaping with everything still connected. Leave the grill attached to the fender and use a porta power to push the fender back out pushing back against the trucks frame and suspension. The weaker fender will move before you bend the frame. It's really all about the angle of the push, not how hard you push. You can do a lot of massaging with a five pound sledge and a length of 2 by 4. You have to do the "rough out" shaping before you begin the fine hammer and dolly work. Just keep in mind that you want to minimize any metal stretching.

John
 

Kbpony

Full Member
Joined
Jan 31, 2012
Messages
371
I have creased front fenders just like that. My rig spent its whole life as a hunting rig in southern Montana. I suspect someone did a couple sweet jumps in it at some point. My question is does anyone have any advice on pulling out the creases? I was thinking about removing the grill and putting something (2x4 lumber)behind the grill flange on the fender then hooking a strap to the 2x4 then hooking up to a tree and throwing it in reverse. If anyone has better suggestions I’d be really happy to hear them, until I build up the courage to hook my rig to a tree!

I’ve had success using a come-along or hand winch between the “immovable object” and the piece you want to move. Throwing in reverse may be quick, but far from controlled!
 

DirtDonk

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Nov 3, 2003
Messages
47,834
Once upon a time people took Broncos off road

This was shot when the Bronco was two years old, had probably less than 24k miles on it still, and looked brand new. That is, up until about 30 seconds before the pic was taken when the bumper touched a smaller rock while getting set up for maneuvering around the bigger rock.

Brannon0253 cr (Large).jpg

As said, it doesn't take much...;D
Although in this case there was not much of a kink, so it was able to be pulled out to 99% not long after the trip.

Paul
 
OP
OP
M

mhinchliffe

Jr. Member
Joined
Dec 21, 2018
Messages
107
I'm far from a "certified body man".

I'm currently rebuilding a 1970 "rolled over" Bronco. I find it's much better to do the majority of the rough reshaping with everything still connected. Leave the grill attached to the fender and use a porta power to push the fender back out pushing back against the trucks frame and suspension. The weaker fender will move before you bend the frame. It's really all about the angle of the push, not how hard you push. You can do a lot of massaging with a five pound sledge and a length of 2 by 4. You have to do the "rough out" shaping before you begin the fine hammer and dolly work. Just keep in mind that you want to minimize any metal stretching.

John

Thx so much for the reply John. I have the passenger side fender removed for door pillar replacement and will do the same for the drivers side. Goal is to get it structurally sound, clean fuel system, all new fuel lines, new brakes and an already installed F150 disc brakes. Bodywork to come in the fall/winter when I jump head first down "that" rabbit hole.
 

377

Sr. Member
Joined
Aug 24, 2012
Messages
372
Loc.
The Bluegrass State
John and KBpony
Thank you for the advice on dealing with the creases. I was actually looking at a come along tonight in the garage. KB when you used the come along did you leave everything bolted together? Thanks again for the help.
 

1970 Palmer

Full Member
Joined
Mar 2, 2020
Messages
455
I found a "brand new" HF porta power kit in a Thrift Store for $50. bucks. It seems HF changed the paint color from Orange, to Red so it was donated but still new. It's not exactly what a pro would use, but it's worked perfectly pushing out my B and C pillars. My passenger door took a big hit, but the door shell was still good after I got the B pillar bent back. I added a new door window frame, and a new door skin and it looks 100%. I have been very impressed at how well the Tom's replacement parts have fit. None of this is technically difficult, but it is very time consuming. As a retired guy, I have plenty of time.

As a kid I worked at a Ford Dealership in Glendale, AZ. Watching the body shop guys work on then "new" 1960-70 Fords was "interesting". No laser measuring in that time period. That first summer, I worked in the used car department "Setting Clocks", LOL. Man times have changed in the past 50 years with regards to federal laws.

John
 
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Slowleak

Bronco Guru
Joined
Sep 12, 2013
Messages
3,752
Loc.
Georgia
John and KBpony
Thank you for the advice on dealing with the creases. I was actually looking at a come along tonight in the garage. KB when you used the come along did you leave everything bolted together? Thanks again for the help.


I’ve straightened quite a few bumpers with a come-along. Hook one end to the trailer hitch on my Yukon and the other to the Bronco bumper with a chunk of 2x4 inside it.

Bodyshop guy said he couldn’t straighten them. He said “That’s spring steel”
 

Kbpony

Full Member
Joined
Jan 31, 2012
Messages
371
John and KBpony
Thank you for the advice on dealing with the creases. I was actually looking at a come along tonight in the garage. KB when you used the come along did you leave everything bolted together? Thanks again for the help.

Full disclosure, I don’t think I’ve needed to straighten the bumpers on my Bronco. The one I remember for sure was a 2010 Chevy 2500 rear that I managed to push in the center which forced the outer end rearward. I may have had to remove some plastic, but I believe I wrapped a nylon sling around the bent area and pulled off a post in the shop. Sometimes you have to go a little further than you think so it will settle back where you want it. You can always stop, check it out, and give it some more if needed. I think I would leave the body together so it can straighten together. Otherwise you may encounter or create some fitment issues.
 

Rustytruck

Bronco Guru
Joined
Feb 24, 2002
Messages
10,875
You will have to remove the fenders and grill as the inner fender and core support will be pushed back. It needs to be pulled back forward and the crease taken out of the inner fender liner. Then you need to straighten the fender which will bring the fender back to proper length pushing the grill back to proper location to meet the inner fender location.
 
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