Disk Brake Conv. torques and effort to spin??

[csmith441]

I know this has been talked about and discussed more times than one can count... Sorry.

I torqued the spindle washer/nut with the nipple on it to 60ft lbs (then backed off 1/4 turn), then get the spacer with the holes on, and then torqued the lock washer on to 90 ft lbs.

When I had it at just 60 with the first threaded spindle washer/nut the wheel would rotate smoothly with some effort. Once I got the lock washer torqued it take quite a bit more effort to rotate the assembly.


How much effort should it take to rotate the assembly?

Thanks

 

[spap]

It should spin freely without any rocking or play. I know experts will chime in but sounds like your might be a little tight

 

[Gray035]

Agreed. Without the caliper installed it should turn with only a little effort. Did you install new bearings? Maybe they need a few rotations to settle in.

 

[csmith441]

Yes, I installed new bearings. Ill spin them a little tonight and see what happens.

Hell, I may just take them off and retorque everything.

 

[DirtDonk]

The usual initial torque is 50 lbs in most of the text I've seen, but because it's then loosened by a full quarter of a turn, I don't see the 10lbs difference being a huge matter.

However, the last 90lbs of torque really does have a huge tightening effect on the overall freeplay of the bearing. So maybe that extra 10lbs initially is too much after all? I don't know, but it would be well worth a few minutes to try again. This time with the lesser value.

Another thing that comes up is when the holes in the lock-ring won't line up precisely on the pin. When that happens, you remove and then flip the ring over (the holes are actually offset from the tab) to try again.
If they still don't line up perfectly, you can stick your finger in there and back off of the adjusting nut. Backing off is better than rotating it slightly tighter.
Here again, that tiny bit of difference should not cause trouble in the larger scheme of things.

All in all though, there is "some" resistance to turning with all new grease packed in the bearings. Not much though.
But if you're not that experienced with brakes, maybe you're not sure what level of resistance is normal?
Have you done this before, or is your first time doing brakes and bearings?

Paul

 

[DirtDonk]

Oh, I forgot to mention that the initial torque is primarily to seat the bearings and races. May have other purposes too of course, but that's one of the main ones at least.

And you're supposed to be spinning the rotor/tire while you're "setting" the races with the first 50lbs. Not sure how much it would effect accuracy to not turn it, but it does recommend turning the wheel in all the texts.
I've actually done it without turning the wheel, and could not detect any differences that I remember, but even that time I ended up doing it the book way, rather than juts leaving it.
Just in case...

The bottom line is the freeplay. Once it's down to it's final 90lbs, you should just barely be able to detect movement. In some cases, when full of new grease, even seasoned hands find it hard to detect the play.

Paul

 

[Rustytruck]

After its torqued down there is supposed to be end play on the hub to spindle .001 to .010. No end play when the hub gets hot and swells youll spin the races.

 

[csmith441]

I retorqued to 50 lbs and the lock at 80lbs on both spindles. It made a little difference. I played with the slotted ring for quite awhile on both to find better settings. After reading all your posts I think I'm trying to pull all play out it and not leaving that .001-.010 play in there for the heat expansion. I didn't know you had to spin the rotor while setting the bearings.

I have never done a drum to disk brake conversion.

Thank you all very much.

Chris

 

[Squid]

Had these same issues when I did mine. Doing one side t a time it was amazing how fast the second side goes after learning all of the lessons on the first side.

 

[DirtDonk]

And even if you had done bearings on other vehicles Chris, the old 4wd solid axle adjustment procedure you're following here is fairly unique to vehicles.
Passenger cars and 2wd trucks are adjusted totally differently, in such a way that kind of makes more sense.
The method on our trucks may seem strange at first, but it sure seems to work!

Paul

 

[csmith441]

Dirt,

I really appreciate the time you took to enlighten me about the brakes. Thank you again for your help. It does make more sense after reading the posts and actually thinking about it.

Chris

 

[DirtDonk]

What? Something with these rigs makes sense? ;D
I must be slipping!

Paul