Disk brake parts- stock vs conversion

[gws34]

Will stock 76-77 disk brake parts work on a 1975 dana 44 that was drum brakes? I know these parts are harder to come by now a days but if available are they a better option than the disk brake conversion with chevy parts?

thanks

 

[DirtDonk]

They are "almost" a direct fit.
You need everything from the knuckles out, whether you use '76/'77 Bronco parts or '76-'79 Full-size Bronco or pickup truck parts.

The difference is in the steering arms where the tie-rod attaches. The tapered holes are different sizes and the locations are different too. The Bronco version is further out and higher up than the most common full-size model, so your tie-rod will need to be modified or replaced.
We carry a replacement that will be the correct width and have the correct sized tapered studs: https://www.wildhorses4x4.com/product/Tie_Rod_2way_Adjustable_7677yr/Custom_tie_rods

The tapered holes of the full-size knuckles are larger and so you need the proper rod ends, or a tapered adapter like this: https://www.wildhorses4x4.com/product/Tapered_Sleeves_for_F150_Knuckles/Custom_tie_rods

New hoses too, which are commonly available from us and other vendors as well.
You can NOT source '78/79 hoses, or '76/'77 hoses and expect them to fit. You can find stock replacements locally that can work, but they are not from the original applications expected.

Paul

 

[thegreatjustino]

The 76/77 parts will bolt right up just like the disc brakes from a full size pickup.

Your t-style steering linkage won't work with the 76/77 knuckles though. You'll need to ream them out for the t-style linkage to fit or buy a different steering linkage.

All these front ends were built by Dana Spicer Corporation. Whether you use parts for the Chevy, full size Ford, or 76/77 Bronco, they're all Dana parts.

 

[DirtDonk]

To your "are they better" question, the answer is "yes and no" in my mind.

Nothing wrong with going with the Chevy parts, and they do in fact have larger pistons for potentially more clamping force. All else being equal that is...
I personally prefer the "sliding bar" design of the Ford-based calipers over the "sliding pin" design of the GM-based (both designed by Bendix probably) calipers. But saying that does not make millions of people wrong.
Lots of members here have stated they prefer the (arguably more common) sliding-pin type used in the conversion kits. So lots of precedent for giving that design good marks too.

The smaller piston of the Ford was used on full size half-ton pickups too, so is not necessarily a detriment to power. And if size matters you can always substitute the larger piston versions found in the big passenger cars of the day. We call them "T-Bird calipers" because that's one of the applications we use to source them.
But no arguing the larger piston of the conversion kits does not provide more clamping power, and was also used on full-size trucks of the era. You just have to make sure you have sufficient fluid flow capacity from the master cylinder to take full advantage.

You may know this, but I'll say it here anyway. A larger piston caliper clamps harder for a given pressure coming from the master, but uses more fluid to do it. Thereby usually making for longer travel at the pedal. A smaller piston might have less force, but gives a solid feel to the pedal.
A smaller master cylinder piston size takes less leg effort to give pressure to the caliper and gives a firm pedal. A larger master cylinder piston moves more fluid, gives a firmer pedal, but takes more leg effort to do it.
So it's all a balance. At some point the size of the caliper requires a larger piston in the master, which "might" require more leg muscle to provide the same braking force. Hence the popular edition of a power booster to the mix. And at some point (usually based on tire size), a vacuum booster is just not enough so we upgrade to hydro-boost taking power from the power steering pump.

It's all part of a "system" and has to work well together to keep the individual driver happy. But as far as one caliper being "better" than the other... Depending on the rest of the system, they're both very good upgrades over stock drums.
Probably still the best, or at least in the top three improvements you can make to a stock '66 to '75 Bronco.

Oh, and not to forget pad material as part of that system! This can make a huge difference in felt quality of braking.
I think many members can attest to how that effects braking feel.

Paul

 

[gws34]

Could i use stock 75 knuckles and bolt the 76/77 caliper brackets and dust shields to them? Do I need a to replace the spindles to 76/77 with the new rotor and hub? do I need to replace the knuckles and change everything out.

Basically I have access to some stock 76/77 stock brake parts and want to see if it is worth it to find the rest of the parts and make it a stock 76/77 brake set up as to a conversion.

I know it will be APITA because it is parts gathered together from used and new parts not just bolting on the conversion set, but it would be cheaper and then be more "stock Bronco" and not a conversion with Chevy parts.

Thanks

 

[gws34]

Thank you DirtDonk for all of your info! Yeah unfortunately I do not have power steering yet in this bronco, so Hydro boost is out for now. Currently installing the vacuum boost.

Trying to do what i can to keep it on the road as a daily driver, but not break the bank in this time of unemployment and unsure when things will get back to normal.

I have more time to work on the bronco than ever before but less funds, so trying to do what I can. Trust me no power steering with 4 drum brakes and no power booster make it a nice work out while driving.

 

[gws34]

So with the conversion kits I can use a stock knuckle (with some grinding) but to put stock parts on I need to replace the knuckles?

That might be the big cost that makes the conversion have to be the option.

Thanks everyone for their advise.

 

[DirtDonk]

Could i use stock 75 knuckles and bolt the 76/77 caliper brackets and dust shields to them? Do I need a to replace the spindles to 76/77 with the new rotor and hub? do I need to replace the knuckles and change everything out.

No, you can't bolt Ford disc brake components on to the Ford drum brake knuckles. Doesn't work that way even with a little modification.

The two systems are completely different in just about every way imaginable.
In fact, if the Ford discs were compatible with Ford drum knuckles, we would likely not be having this discussion because all the "kits" would include Ford, or reproduced-like-Ford parts.

Paul

 

[DirtDonk]

So with the conversion kits I can use a stock knuckle (with some grinding) but to put stock parts on I need to replace the knuckles?

Yep, that's how it works.
To keep Bronco stock drum brake knuckles, you use:
GM 1/2 ton spindles.
Caliper brackets.
Calipers.
Appropriate hoses.
Ford '76 and later hub and rotor.

Wheel bearings and locking mechanisms (lockouts) are common to all.

Paul

 

[gws34]

Thanks Paul,

I now see the difference in the knuckles. I was hoping because I could get the caliper brackets and dust shields used and new calipers, hoses, pads etc. it would be an option. Just a hope and a dream.

I will continue my search for the chevy dana 44 parts to do the conversion. or wait and save the money to buy the kit. Which many people have said is cheaper in the long run.

LOVE your company and all the help you offer. Thanks again

 

[DirtDonk]

You're welcome. If those Ford parts are a really good deal you might want to grab them anyway. You never know when a matching pair of knuckles from a '76 to '79 might show up.
Or if not, let others know where they are in case all they need is the brackets!;D

Paul