justinkwitt
Newbie
- Joined
- Aug 10, 2009
- Messages
- 42
Hey Guys, I know there's probably already a thread in here about this, but I just completed my own power window project for about $100, and it turned out pretty nice so I thought I'd share.
Here what I needed:
1. 2 power window motors, 86-95 taurus/sable, front. (I used new, cardone #s 82-306, 82-307 because we own a parts distribution center, but you can find used for cheap) I saw some on ebay for $20 used.
2. 6 Rolls of Wire (i used 14 gauge, you need red, black, and 4 other colors), different colors so when I run them to the switch i don't get confused. Only need 10 feet of each, except 2 for red and black, which you only need a couple feet of.
3. 1/4" strip steel. Used one 6"x6" piece (cost me 5 dollars at welding shop)
4. 6 rivets (used ones I already had)
5. 1/4-20 bolts. I think I used 1-1/4" long.
6. Power Window Switch. I used a GM one: dorman part # 901-017. You can find them easily at a junk yard for $5 dollars, but our cost was only $6 so I grabbed a new one.
7. GM Power Window Switch Terminal Connector. They come in 5 packs for about $4. If you get your switch from a junk yard, just grab the pigtail, it would be way easier and cleaner.
8. Bullet connectors, 1 ring terminal, and one female spade connector (for the fuse box)
9. Rubber Grommet Assortment pack (optional). I used ones I had lying around in my shop.
10. Wire Loom (optional). I used some I had lying around in my shop.
Ok Heres the process I used:
First, take out the window regulators. Take a rotary cutter and grind the rivets off holding the old manual gear. Take that gear out. Now, you need that part of the regulator to be flat. So take the rotary cutter and cut it off, and use a disc grinder till it is flat.
Take your 1/4" steel and cut 2 pieces in the shape shown to be used as mounting brackets.
Take your window motor and a bracket and put it on the regulator. See if there are any clearance issues. Grind away on regulator or bracket any issues.
Next step is to clamp the bracket on the regulator. I brazed them together on the door side, so that they would stay in place while drilling.
Drill the bracket/regulator in 3 spots for the rivets. Make sure they wont interfere with the motor mounting. I put the rivets though the bracket side, so I drilled a slight hole to countersink them. After drilling, crimp the rivets.
After this, line the motor up to mount on the bracket. Make sure the teeth meet inside the groves of the regulator. You can adjust the reguator by moving the arm to get it to match up.
Clamp the motor to the bracket. Start to drill 3 holes in the bracket going through the window motor mounting holes. Take the motor off and finish using a 13/64" drill bit. After drilling, tap the holes with a 1/4-20 tap. Be careful if you brazed the bracket because this hardens the steel and could brake your tap.
Take the 1/4 bolts and bolt the motor up.
Before I put it in the Bronco, I cut the ends off of the wires and put bullet connectors on instead of the stock connector.
I'm not going to type instructions for drilling but I will post a link to the BC Bronco's sheet that they include on their website for power windows. It will tell you where to drill.
See page 3 for where to drill: http://www.bcbroncos.com/power%20locks%20with%20water%20mark.pdf
Here you can find BC Bronco's instructions for installing their power window kit. Use it to wire (basically you have to have a "fish" wire to help pull the wires through):http://www.bcbroncos.com/power_window%20with%20water%20mark.pdf
Be careful when drilling. Drill almost straight up and use a pilot hole. If your angle isn't enough, it will go through the panel and you won't be able to run the wires. I stepped up the bits until I got to 1/2". Becareful when pulling the wires through, there is sharp metal and will cut the plastic on the outside. You don't want exposed metal on your wires.
I ran the wires to the switch, which I put in my ash try, because I don't smoke. Later on it will go in the center console that I am building. You need to run one wire to the accessory terminal on the fuse box and one to a ground inside the dash to operate the switch.
I didn't bother covering the holes where the window crank was (it looks kinda cool), because I'm planning on covering my door panels. If you dont want the hole though, you can go to grainger.com and buy 7/8" plugs.
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/Knockout-Plug-1EMR2?Pid=search
After that its pretty much it. You have fully operational power windows that go all the way up and all the way down! If you have any suggestions, please feel free to add!
I believe my total cost was about $115. Would have been lots cheaper if I pulled from junk yards, but I used what was a little more available to me.
Here are some pictures of it completed:
Here what I needed:
1. 2 power window motors, 86-95 taurus/sable, front. (I used new, cardone #s 82-306, 82-307 because we own a parts distribution center, but you can find used for cheap) I saw some on ebay for $20 used.
2. 6 Rolls of Wire (i used 14 gauge, you need red, black, and 4 other colors), different colors so when I run them to the switch i don't get confused. Only need 10 feet of each, except 2 for red and black, which you only need a couple feet of.
3. 1/4" strip steel. Used one 6"x6" piece (cost me 5 dollars at welding shop)
4. 6 rivets (used ones I already had)
5. 1/4-20 bolts. I think I used 1-1/4" long.
6. Power Window Switch. I used a GM one: dorman part # 901-017. You can find them easily at a junk yard for $5 dollars, but our cost was only $6 so I grabbed a new one.
7. GM Power Window Switch Terminal Connector. They come in 5 packs for about $4. If you get your switch from a junk yard, just grab the pigtail, it would be way easier and cleaner.
8. Bullet connectors, 1 ring terminal, and one female spade connector (for the fuse box)
9. Rubber Grommet Assortment pack (optional). I used ones I had lying around in my shop.
10. Wire Loom (optional). I used some I had lying around in my shop.
Ok Heres the process I used:
First, take out the window regulators. Take a rotary cutter and grind the rivets off holding the old manual gear. Take that gear out. Now, you need that part of the regulator to be flat. So take the rotary cutter and cut it off, and use a disc grinder till it is flat.
Take your 1/4" steel and cut 2 pieces in the shape shown to be used as mounting brackets.
Take your window motor and a bracket and put it on the regulator. See if there are any clearance issues. Grind away on regulator or bracket any issues.
Next step is to clamp the bracket on the regulator. I brazed them together on the door side, so that they would stay in place while drilling.
Drill the bracket/regulator in 3 spots for the rivets. Make sure they wont interfere with the motor mounting. I put the rivets though the bracket side, so I drilled a slight hole to countersink them. After drilling, crimp the rivets.
After this, line the motor up to mount on the bracket. Make sure the teeth meet inside the groves of the regulator. You can adjust the reguator by moving the arm to get it to match up.
Clamp the motor to the bracket. Start to drill 3 holes in the bracket going through the window motor mounting holes. Take the motor off and finish using a 13/64" drill bit. After drilling, tap the holes with a 1/4-20 tap. Be careful if you brazed the bracket because this hardens the steel and could brake your tap.
Take the 1/4 bolts and bolt the motor up.
Before I put it in the Bronco, I cut the ends off of the wires and put bullet connectors on instead of the stock connector.
I'm not going to type instructions for drilling but I will post a link to the BC Bronco's sheet that they include on their website for power windows. It will tell you where to drill.
See page 3 for where to drill: http://www.bcbroncos.com/power%20locks%20with%20water%20mark.pdf
Here you can find BC Bronco's instructions for installing their power window kit. Use it to wire (basically you have to have a "fish" wire to help pull the wires through):http://www.bcbroncos.com/power_window%20with%20water%20mark.pdf
Be careful when drilling. Drill almost straight up and use a pilot hole. If your angle isn't enough, it will go through the panel and you won't be able to run the wires. I stepped up the bits until I got to 1/2". Becareful when pulling the wires through, there is sharp metal and will cut the plastic on the outside. You don't want exposed metal on your wires.
I ran the wires to the switch, which I put in my ash try, because I don't smoke. Later on it will go in the center console that I am building. You need to run one wire to the accessory terminal on the fuse box and one to a ground inside the dash to operate the switch.
I didn't bother covering the holes where the window crank was (it looks kinda cool), because I'm planning on covering my door panels. If you dont want the hole though, you can go to grainger.com and buy 7/8" plugs.
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/Knockout-Plug-1EMR2?Pid=search
After that its pretty much it. You have fully operational power windows that go all the way up and all the way down! If you have any suggestions, please feel free to add!
I believe my total cost was about $115. Would have been lots cheaper if I pulled from junk yards, but I used what was a little more available to me.
Here are some pictures of it completed:
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