Door Latch Bars NEED HELP

[T-7ToNewOldB]

Holy crap is this frustrating.

Background. Newly built bronco, had LAL do the body and also put in door hardware. From wild horses.

Doors worked fine for a bit. Now it is a crazy shit show.

Sometimes won't lock or unlock, or if you bump the lock closed, after you unlock it it won't open, or sometimes even unlocked it won't open from the inside or you have to pull crazy hard to get it to open. All new stuff.

I have the door panels off and disconnected the rod from the inside handle to the release. Closing the mechanism manually, (meaning mechanism thinks the door is closed but it isn't) I have to pull crazy hard to get it to unlock. If I push on the little tab by the latch with my had it opens easily.

Also, it only seems to partially disengage the latch. Meaning I have to close the door once (doesn't latch just bangs) open the door and then it closes. Can't find anything that is binding inside, but it certainly is.

Super frustrating.

Passenger door won't even open at all now, after working perfectly for about 2 months.

Hope it is something simple but sure seems like this is some crap equipment.

Striker hits dead center on the latch. But mechanism has the same behavior whether I'm testing it all with the door open or actually using the door. So it is not an alignment issue.

Even when I disconnect the rod from the inside door handle and pull at different angles just using my hand still the same problems.

Hugh

 

[T-7ToNewOldB]

Who sells the best door parts?

Going to try and get the ones I have working but if not I want to get the best ones that are available. Guessing them might all be the same but don't know.

I have gear from Wild Horses. Going to keep tinkering but per the post above but man. Going to disconnect the exterior door lever and the lock lever. If it still works like this with just the inside lever connected than the mechanism itself has issues.

 

[BGBronco]

I've used the WH door hardware in the past and didn't have any issues other than tweaking the rods by bending them a bit.

I don't have any thoughts on why they worked and don't work now but if you have been fiddling with them there is a specific way the rods attach with the fasteners as well as which way the rods are inserted. You can probably find a better version of this image somewhere.

 

[56f100bbw]

Icon bronco Don't use any reproduction door latches they rebuild the originals , NOS almost impossible to fine

 

[BOBS 2 68S]

Just a shot in the dark, but have sprayed them with some oil like WD-40. Even new parts might be dry or sticking with assembly lube.

 

[Bronco-Brian]

I don't use any anything but oem Ford on latches and handles. You can transfer the oem guts to the new chrome handles - but I only use Ford latch assemblies. The geometry and clearances on these are crucial for proper function. About the only good parts from repop latches are the springs and rods.

 

[T-7ToNewOldB]

Thanks. I assume OEM parts are hunt and find?

I am going to try spraying lube today as well.

 

[T-7ToNewOldB]

Spraying did the job! I assumed since new they wouldn't need this, and worked at first.

Ass out of mostly me. . . . .

 

[Rustytruck]

take your original door latches and put them in an ultrasonic cleaner you will be suprized on how much crap comes out of them, then use spray white grease or gelling motorcycle chain lube, the stuff that sprays thin and gells up when the solvents evaporate. use it sparingly just enough to work in and stay. if you use re-pop chrome handles then reuse the factory original handle button assembly in the new handle. Make sure your door posts are hitting in the right spot on the door latch too deep the pin head hits the latch assemblies, to shallow the latch hangs up on the pin head. make sure the door isnt sagging down too much on its hinge pins where the door latch has to climb the door up over the door latch post. You can buy door post shims if needed.