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Door pillar cheat or disaster?

joshua

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Jun 5, 2007
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First of this probably won’t work because there’s no way it hasn’t been thought of. But I’m going to ask to find out why. Also I’ve never welded one panel on anything. So I have no idea if this is remotely possible.

My bronco basically needs all the panels. So I just thought the hell with that, I’ll call DC and give them a deposit on a body. Well they are booked out till 2024 and beyond. Would not take a deposit from me. That was the case pretty much every else that builds them that has a good record.

If was to attempt to build one myself the thing that worries me the most is the door pillars. I’ve watched so many guys on the tube effin with those for months. On off, off on, ect.

Now to my Question. Can’t a guy just tack some square tubing to the door. Fit it perfectly in place with the pillar attached to the door. Tack those bars to the inside of the body. Then fold the pillar over to the body and it would be where it needs to be welded in?
Or does the pillar flex a little and it would sag? Idk but I’m sure someone could answer that.

I drew this crude image to explain it better.
 

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markatherton

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If you need EVERY panel....and you have never welded...This is a really bad idea...
 
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joshua

joshua

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I’ve welded. Just not sheet metal. And ya I hear it. But options seem to be limited.
 

hsach

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I don't know anything about this place, I have just heard of it on here. They build bronco bodies, you might give them a call to see if they are backlogged. https://shannonsbroncos.com/

As far as the welding on this sheet metal, it is very different than regular metal. Very thin, and just when you think it can't get thinner.......it does. Don't run a bead and control your heat, and you should be fine.
 
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joshua

joshua

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Ya I’ve been playing around. Reading and watching videos on welding sheet metal. I’m going to attempt some other body work on stuff I don’t care about before I decide if I’m going to attempt a bronco.
 

BronCowie

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Apr 24, 2007
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Vancouver, WA
First of this probably won’t work because there’s no way it hasn’t been thought of. But I’m going to ask to find out why. Also I’ve never welded one panel on anything. So I have no idea if this is remotely possible.

My bronco basically needs all the panels. So I just thought the hell with that, I’ll call DC and give them a deposit on a body. Well they are booked out till 2024 and beyond. Would not take a deposit from me. That was the case pretty much every else that builds them that has a good record.

If was to attempt to build one myself the thing that worries me the most is the door pillars. I’ve watched so many guys on the tube effin with those for months. On off, off on, ect.

Now to my Question. Can’t a guy just tack some square tubing to the door. Fit it perfectly in place with the pillar attached to the door. Tack those bars to the inside of the body. Then fold the pillar over to the body and it would be where it needs to be welded in?
Or does the pillar flex a little and it would sag? Idk but I’m sure someone could answer that.

I drew this crude image to explain it better.
Sorry, I meant to laugh at markatherton's reply, not your post. His reply made me laugh out load. ;)
 

BronCowie

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Ya I’ve been playing around. Reading and watching videos on welding sheet metal. I’m going to attempt some other body work on stuff I don’t care about before I decide if I’m going to attempt a bronco.
Yep, practicing on scrap material is a very good idea. If your welder is not properly set for this and you don't have the right touch, you can burn through the sheet metal very easily... don't ask me how I know this! ;) :cool:
 
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Rustytruck

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Feb 24, 2002
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10,875
i am sure that if you are a bad welder when u started you will be a good welder when you finished. just have to have a good body to take measurements from.
 

Rebuilder

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I think your idea would be a good starting point but I wouldn't fully weld anything until you tested for door sag.
 
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joshua

joshua

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Thanks! I figured that’s the reason I haven’t seen it done. I’m just thinking it could possibly work. Just wondering if anyone has tried it? Or even hang it from the ceiling and line it up that way, then tack the pillar in. Idk I just think there has to be a better way.
 

NGABronco

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Thanks! I figured that’s the reason I haven’t seen it done. I’m just thinking it could possibly work. Just wondering if anyone has tried it? Or even hang it from the ceiling and line it up that way, then tack the pillar in. Idk I just think there has to be a better way.
Josh, it sounds like it should work, in your searches I hope you found this pic?? The main thing is to keep the door opening to these measurements, door don't change, what you weld the pillar to can't move !!! Good Luck!!! :) :) :)
 

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Scotty

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May 24, 2004
Messages
220
So... yes, it can be done, maybe it's easier, maybe it's not:

I did something similar to what you're proposing. I had the dash in and built a support from the bronco's floor to the bottom-side of the dash; my intent was to have the dash help support the weight above and around it to minimize shifting. The door pillar, kick panel, and inner rocker were all removed and replaced.

I mounted the door post to the kick panel with tapping sheet metal screws, then bolted the hinges to the post and to the door. I threw a ratchet strap over the top of the bronco and attached it to the far wall (already had a mounting point). I looped an adjustable rafting strap around the door's lower body and through the window, hanging the looped strap on the ratchet strap hook. With the weight supported, I put the door in-place, closed and latched on the door post. I shimmed the door into position using folded cardboard, then swung the pillar and kick panel into place. Getting everything true required a bottle jack under the pillar with only a slight bit of lift. I then clamped everything down and tested the door; this is where it got a little tricky: the aft edge of the door pillar/kick panel was not seated against the inner rocker (clamps wouldn't fit) and when it was pushed in, the door moved rearward, binding against the door post. After I figured that out and moved everything forward about 3/8" - 1/2", it was pretty easy to get it all in place. After a bunch of hinge adjustments, the door closes and latches with a light push; it doesn't hang on the latch post anymore. Sheet metal screws replaced the clamps to the inner rocker, firewall, and cowl and the lower dash support bolts helped pull the kick panel inward. Everything appears to be where it should.

I will remove each of the screws and mig weld the screw holes closed using a hotter weld and a slower wire speed; this will minimize the size of welds to grind . I weld one hole at a time and immediately blow with compressed air to (hopefully) minimize warping. It's slow going, but worked well on the driver's side.

I used the table NGABronco posted above, and added my own measurements before disassembly. I suspect my replacement door pillar is slightly different in size affecting all the distances. I used the process I described after that failed.

I did not intend to write a novel...
Scott
 

roundhouse

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Sep 5, 2003
Messages
2,886
only remove and replace one part at a time .

Do the door post and get it right and then do the floor or whatever else is next .
 

NGABronco

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Hey Josh, you may want to take into consideration the body mounts you using (new vs old) are they the ones you'll be using?? They can alter your door opening!!!
Good luck!!!:):):)
 

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