Door post/Kick Panel Alignment

[KDML]

Just received my new kick panels and door posts from JBG. The rear edge of the kick panels do not appear to have a very straight cut. When I layed the door posts where I estimate they will need to attach (using the door strap and dashboard nuts and fender bracket holes as a guide) it appears there is not enough metal to the rear of the kick panel for me to weld on the door post. It is worse as you progress down to the middle of the kick panel.

I have searched all of the related threads trying to find a good close up picture of what the alignment should look like. Anyone have this same experience? Anyone have a good close up shot of the alignment?

Thanks

 

[Flash69]

Trial and Error. Just get you some clamps and fool with it until you get it right. That is a time consuming part of the rebuild. I wish i had some better advice.

 

[DebosDave'72]

I know I am not going to be of any help here, but I just purchased a 77 that has obviously had some body work done, and not too well I am discovering. Apparently the drivers side door post was put in wrong or something in the kickpanel or where the windshield is supported. At any rate, I have a sizeable gap on the drivers side between the windshield frame and my door. It makes a pretty good whistle when I get above 40 mph. I didn't notice it when I test drove it (it was late and I had just driven for 3+ hours one way). I think this is a pretty important alignment thing, so I would test fit the doors if at all possible. I know, no help, but I am hoping I can learn a little from the responses to your thread! Thanks, and good luck!

Dave

 

[KDML]

I know ultimately I need to test fit all of this on the Bronco and take lots of measurements before I begin, but just laying everything out on the floor and estimating the final position makes me wonder whether once I get the kick panel in place and find the proper spot for the door post will I have enough metal on the rear edge of the kick panel to weld to. I would rather have too much metal and have to trim some off than have too little. The kick panel has an indentation along the rear edge that runs about 3/4 way down the panel. I assume the door post drops into this indentation. That indentation does not appear wide enough to capture the edge of the door post for welding. If I have to move the door post to the real a little I will even have less metal to work with

 

[Coob]

I just picked up 2 new kick panes from JBG. After getting the old ones out (what was left of them), I test fitted the new kick panel on the drivers side. It was hell getting it in there but for the most part if fit pretty well. I have not welded it in yet as I'm working on the body support as well.

Your best bet is test fit several times until your comfortable.

;D

 

[KDML]

Coob, are you doing door posts as well - just looking to get a close up of how the rear edge of the door post lines up with the rear edge of the kick panel. I understand final position depends on the door and fender, but looking to ensure there is enough metal at the rear edge of the kick panel to weld to

 

[KDML]

Coob, any pictures of the rear edge of the kick panel you bought. When I lay mine next to a straight edge they are far from straight - just want to be sure this is not going to cause me a problem once I get the kick panel welded in and I move on to the door posts

 

[screamin reel]

I have been saving pics for my rebuild. Hopefully something here will be able to help you. Don't have any good pictures of the inside of the kick panel.

 

[Aloha Mr Hand]

The indentation you're referring to should line up with the rear edge of the door post. That should give you enough metal to weld on. The big hole on the bottom of the kick panel where the lower fender mount is should just be peeking out from the forward lip of the door post or maybe a 1/4" or so. The kick panel gets sandwiched between the floor pan and the door post where they all three come together. Not sure if any of that helped, but I know this... Door post alignment is way more important than kick panel. If the kick panel is off, you can always add metal to it, I put in my driver's side post and it was off by... 1/8" at the most and my door was nowhere close to closing, a little creative shimming of the door hinge made it work, but I know it's not right. I can try to snap a pic, but I've got ut all undercoated already, so the detail might not be there. At least this part of my Bronco is behind me...

 

[Coob]

Coob, are you doing door posts as well - just looking to get a close up of how the rear edge of the door post lines up with the rear edge of the kick panel. I understand final position depends on the door and fender, but looking to ensure there is enough metal at the rear edge of the kick panel to weld to

Sorry man, no useful pictures yet. But the ones a few posts back look pretty good. I am not replacing my door post because they are in pretty good shape. But as I have the pass. sides completely tore down, its exposed enough for me to test fit the new piece.

Wish I would have taken a picture with the new kick panel.

 

[Coob]

Here is a picture of my pass. side that I am currently working on. When I test fitted the new kick panel, the rear edge was not perfectly straight. It sort of curves a little toward the bottom. The picture below shows the inside door post. The yellow line represents basically where my kick panel stops. Its really on the edge of the door post (but I can't draw that well on this laptop).

Now also notice on the bottom the red circle. There is a spot there where the metal is thicker or there was a brace or something. Also, I can't remember if the kick panel goes over the inside rocker or inside of it.

I'll see if I can get a picture of the test fit.

 

[KDML]

Thanks for the pictures. Now that I can post pictures I can show you what I am seeing. One pictures shows both new kick panels next to a straight edge. Neither kick panel is straight, but the channel/indentation the door post sits in appears straight, so I assume the actual edge does not need to be straight.

What was more concerning is the second picture which shows how the rear edge of the door post is wider that the kick panel channel, which does not provide a lot of room for adjustment. Reading many of the other posts about door post/kick panel it appears I need to make adjustments by moving both the door post and the kick panel

I suppose I will follow advice and just test fit until all looks good, making adjustments by moving both the door post and the kick panel.