Door Weatherstrip won't let door close without force

[zuluking]

I purchased a new set of door weatherstrip and now door won't close without excessive force. Even when forced close the firm weather-strip pushed door panel out of alignment. Door is aligned and gaps are correct. Any suggestions? This is Bull Shit that vendors we all buy from sell weatherstrip that is too firm.

Will heat gun help? How have others fixed this?

 

[SteveL]

It's not uncommon. I had same problem on my 72 suburban. I believe there was one brand that's a little softer guys on here were using.

 

[broncobuddha]

One method I've seen but not tried is to use a heat gun to soften the stripping to where it's more pliable and then close the door and leave it sit for a couple of days.

Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk

 

[1970 Palmer]

I have the same issue. I asked the vendor for the highest quality, softest seals available knowing it was a possible problem area, and was assured that they only sold the best fitting seals. I also have the very same issue on my 1957 Ranch Wagon doors.

My passenger door seal has been installed for a couple of months longer than my recently installed driver side seal. The doors are both hard to close, and my perfect door gap fit is pushed out. So far, time has made no change, they do not "break in".

It's the only early Bronco aftermarket part I've purchased so far, that was a true disappointment.

John

 

[omureebe]

I have the softer metroseals I thought I bought from East Coast (Nick). They are the only ones that'll work. However, I did the door/windshield differently as did another member who used Amazon found weather stripping that's even better:

https://classicbroncos.com/forums/showthread.php?t=305785

Honestly.... if it wasn't for keeping the seals as original as possible, we'd all go for one of the options linked. At some point I'm going to use what Slowleak used (I already purchased them and it's on the to-do list).

 

[Slowleak]

At some point I'm going to use what Slowleak used (I already purchased them and it's on the to-do list).

I’m very happy with mine. It looks better, seals better, and closes great. I’m waiting for some warm weather before I do the passenger side.

It’s not stock, but none of the reproductions are either. My ‘77 came with one piece seals.

 

[DirtDonk]

Same for my '71. Had to cut them in two places to remove the hard top.
Pretty sure the set I bought from Ford was two pieces though as I was able to replace just the lower half.

And by the way, the replacements from Ford fit just like the originals (as you'd expect) and I never had a hard closing issue. The new set on my '68 actually fit "fair" and I was able to mess with it a bit more to get it to close easier. But it's still not like the originals.
They were much more "spongy" and compressible than most of the aftermarket stuff. Which are also very inconsistent and you can buy a super soft set from one manufacturer one time, then the next order comes in and they're all hard almost like solid rubber!
Be one thing if they actually lasted longer, but I'm pretty sure they have a shorter life-span than original too.

I really want to have custom ones made anyway, that fit differently at most points and fill that front top gap better between the windshield frame, fender and door.

Paul

 

[jckkys]

I got mine from one of the EB vendors and am having all the usual problems, plus when looking at the limiting straps I noticed a gap at the A pillar that I could see through with the door closed. So the weather seals hold the doors open and don't seal out weather or even the wind. I think I'll try the Amazon types on top. All the cars and trucks use the spring clip on the pinch weld seals. Some are much wider and look like they could fill the big gap at the A and B pillars. Time to make a junk yard trip to collect samples. The OE style are a PITA to install and the glue dries out here in the desert. Then the strips just fall out. When an OE design utterly fails it's time to try something else, and I'm one who believes in keeping/restoring the original parts and look whenever possible.

 

[DirtDonk]

Even the '73 through '79 pickup folks are doing that. Turns out the '80 through '96 door weatherstrip fits the earlier trucks, but has much better sealing properties. Yet the manufacturers still make the old style, instead of telling everyone to upgrade.
Probably a nod to the restorers that don't want to change even a small bit.

I've only heard that, but am about to re-do the seals on the '79 so am going to try the later model ones first.

Paul

 

[zuluking]

Thanks for all the suggestions. I just ordered 15' of Amazon weatherstrip. I plan to use heat gun this weekend to see if I can make lower door seal more pliable

Cheers

 

[Jfryjfry]

I had he same problem and cut out a middle rib of the weatherstripping to make it significantly thinner. It definitely helped if not solved my problem but I think that Amazon seal is a better idea if it works

 

[No Hay]

I put new seals on my last two also. Harder to close.

When the top is off, and closing the door, I keep one hand on the window frame to hopefully absorb some of the shock, keeping stress off the weld where frame meets the door, as I've seen many with broken and repaired welds.

 

[Rustytruck]

when my 1974 Bronco was new the original owner sent it back to Ford dealer 3 times to get the passengers side door realigned for closing issues. They never fixed it and that was with factory seals. The drivers door worked perfectly. So Ford seals didn't work perfectly in all cases coming from the factory. it was bad enough that I had to warn people not to butt bump the door closed when it didn't fully latch closed. people would butt bump the door and push the door panel in making an ugly big dent in the door. first time it happened I wanted to strangle my girlfriend I was so mad I really slammed the door and the panel popped back out on its own. it didn't get fixed until I replaced the lower rocker from caving it in on a really rocky creek crossing. original rocker was welded in place wrong and missing at least 12 spot welds on the rocker. that left little room for the gasket at the bottom of the door jamb. My 1974 had more than its fair share of assembly issues. probably was made on Friday night shift during hunting season.

 

[jckkys]

The worst ones were Monday mornings with hangovers. The window frames on my '77 both cracked at bottom where they enter the door. The Bronco now has the '68 doors and the window frames are bolted in. So there is some adjustment avoiding the cracks.

 

[rmcmillan]

I'm having the same issue. Doors shut decent with new lower door seals but when I installed the new upper seals, I now have to slam the doors to shut. I have purchased the same weatherstrip as Slow Leak off Amazon and am hopeful that it will resolve my issue as well.

 

[66CTBronco]

I have a dec 65 build 66 bronco, and purchased the seal replacement kit from Nick (northeast) did all the windows and doors and heater etc., and since all the door seals were completely GONE on my truck I needed a little guidance in installing them. After i had installed his seals, noticed my hinge pins were so shot that the drivers upper right frame was hitting the B pillar and caused steel in the window frame to tear on 3 of the 4 sides... re-pinned and bushed the doors with bushings and pins from WH. Needless to say, installed, pinned, and glued the door seals from NECF and after adjusting shims in hinges, the doors close nice and solid... no rattle no wiggle no force, really nice soft seals, plastic pins line up with all the holes, i used Gorilla Glue in corners of the seals and flat surface, but i am so pleased with the door seals from nick. After i installed the upper door seal i realized i needed to remove the roof to work on the windshield so i had to cut the upper seal at the windshield joint to be able to remove the roof and hinge the windshield down, but some urethane black sealant in the cracks made it watertight again. Drivers door still has the window frame out till i get some welding done near the wing, but the passenger door has as solid a "thunk" as ANY of my Audi's... i'm very pleased with the door seals from NECF... a little silicone spray to keep things soft, supple, and slippery, and the doors close beautifully...
c

 

[Pa PITT]

I had the same issue on my 1972 Bronco when I built it.
SO as I knew i'd be another 6 months getting it done .
So I kept the doors shut tight all the time unless I was working inside that door. I didn't think about using the heat gun on them ..
I did wipe them down with WD40 to hopefully make them a little softer .

But after all my effort they kept the doors difficult for another year at least.
Then one day the shut .
Now their worn out & I need a new set .