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Driver side tie rod added sleeve specifics

Timmy390

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Jan 1, 2011
Messages
5,663
Loc.
Conway, AR
I’ve read where this is very common and would like to get this done but have a few questions I’m hoping you guys can answer. I can get the work done for free (it’s all about knowing people) just need to know the specifics. I don’t want to screw this up.

How much did you cut off the tie rod?
What’s the overall length of the cut rod, end to end after the cut?
What thread size is it?
Right or left hand threads need to be cut?

Tim
 

broncnaz

Bronco Guru
Joined
May 22, 2003
Messages
24,341
If your talking about 75 down stock tierods then the thread size should be 1" with a thread pitch of 18. One side is LH threaded and the other side RH threaded. I'd suggest threading the small tierod end part with RH threads that way both the R and L side uses the same part.
So basically I'd have whoever is doing the work make it exactly like the current short tie rod end lenght and everything so your replacement will be the same.
As for total lenght well that really wont change although you'll probably want to have about 1/4" taken out for adjustment purposes all depends on your adjustment sleeve and how the threads inside it are(I believe most are threaded all the way) you may need more taken off the tie rod or you might not.
 
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Timmy390

Timmy390

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Jan 1, 2011
Messages
5,663
Loc.
Conway, AR
Thanks naz

I found this while searching around. Hope it helps those in the future. Full artical found here http://www.off-road.com/trucks-4x4/tech/7677-bronco-tie-rod-conversion-20241.html

The full artical lists the part numbers needed from Advance Auto Parts

Now is the time to be certain that the body is centered on the front axle assembly by adjusting the length of the track arm, either by obtaining an adjustable track arm or by lowering the track arm mount on the frame or both. You will get less bump steer if you have a lifted vechile if the track arm and the drag link are as close to parallel as possible. Measure between the wheels at the front and the back to make sure that they are the same distance or slightly toed-in 1/4 to 3/8". Carefully measure the distance between the knuckles to determine what length tie rod you will need to end up with. Thread the short tie rod end and sleeve onto the long shaft leaving about a 3/8 gap between the ends. Allow for a 3/8 or so gap on the long end when you mark the position of the cut.

Cut off the left hand tie rod end and have shaft threaded 1" 18 pitch left hand thread, most machine shops won't have a die to do this job so you will have to ask to have it threaded on a lathe using a procedure called "single pointing" in otherwords cutting the threads on the lathe with a cutting tip. Once you have had the long shaft threaded on the end that you cut off you will have threads on both ends of the shaft and will be able to replace the tie rod ends whenever they wear out and not have to replace the long end anymore. Start the sleeve 2 turns on the shaft and then start the tie rod end 2 turns into the other end of the sleeve, then turn the sleeve about 28 turns counter-clockwise while holding both shafts in place. Do the same for the other end. Install the complete tie rod assembly to the knuckles and tighten the nut and install cotter pins. Take the time to center the steering wheel by turning it from left to right and counting the turns, remove the wheel and reinstall so that it is centered with equal turns from lock to lock from center - mark it for future reference.

Tim
 
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