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Dual m/c brake system w/bias for manual brakes

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nvrstuk

nvrstuk

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I'm liking where you're going TC. Those early style Wilwood brkts look like they could work. I'm on 40's, going to 42"s for sand and snow. So a 17" rotor is about right?? lol

You're a couple light years ahead of me with all your hands on experience. I "did" brakes for a living for a while for GM but they weren't very exotic. :)


2 serious options for keeping HB:

-I have seriously looked at running an additional ps pump. I made room for it by eliminating my OBA as I am removing my trusty 23yr old alum York. :(

-Go with an electric HB. Getting more popular with the HR crowd. Almost talked my buddy into it... wanted him to be the guinea pig. Not cheap but perfect. remote mount, brakes with no engine :), small compact, doesn't affect strg-ever... not but pluses but expensive.
 

jamesroney

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Words I have never heard at the campfire:

1. My tires are too big.
2. I'm glad I got rid of my hydroboost.
3. I wish your exhaust was louder.
4. I'm swapping out my Dana 44 for an IFS.
5. I'm glad I have a Getrag transmission.

there's more...
 

Yeller

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Words I have never heard at the campfire:

1. My tires are too big.
2. I'm glad I got rid of my hydroboost.
3. I wish your exhaust was louder.
4. I'm swapping out my Dana 44 for an IFS.
5. I'm glad I have a Getrag transmission.

there's more...

Is it bad there have been a few of those?

“Ditching my 44’s for 40’s”
“Going from 2 brakes to 1” (pinion brake)
Those were from me......:eek::-X;D

There are more lol
Nothing ventured nothing gained
 

ntsqd

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I ditched 37's for metric 35's on the Bronc-up. Just didn't see any point in driving that caricature around. Looked like a clown car and with it's huge scrub radius it really liked to grab the seams in the pavement.

I've messed with brakes, I'd say Tobin has me beat by miles in the hands-on experience dept.

Edited my post above as I realized that I'd left out some info that should be there.
 

Yeller

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TS that is some genuine tech, thanks! I've never seen it explained like that, at least it proves my theories are sound. My hat is off to you sir!
 
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nvrstuk

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Jamesrooney"Quote- I did read your other thread, and appreciate all of the effort that went into getting a PS pump and return lines that works. I also understand that most people are not steering AND stopping at the same time. But off-road driving makes things more complicated. Because Steering and stopping at the same time becomes interesting. That being said...I am baffled by your choice of a 4R70W. I despise my JKUR with the automatic because I am constantly overdriving the brakes. With my Bronco and NV4500, I don't use the brake pedal except when I actually am not moving. But it is what it is..."



Thanks for the reply on my attempts at PS pump/gpm flow/etc to make everything work...

Aaahhh, the auto/manual pro/con debate... :)

I don't run a 4r70w anymore, but I do have a 6r80 now. I ran nothing but manuals my entire life in 4wd (except one brief encounter with a C4 and I swore I'd never own another C4) BUT... my best off road manual setup was a ZF/203/D20 up until running my 4r/Klune/Atlas. Great gear selections in the truck boxes but sooooo dang limiting when trying to do anything other than crawl in the gear you are in. Gear splits are way too wide and slow. You have to pick one and go... Even on rocks by the time the clutch is in and you've moved the "stick" and the clutch you are stopped or your momentum has slowed enough that the higher gear you want is now useless. Try this while in deep, I mean deep, heavy, wet snow and when the clutch is pushed in you will have lost all momentum, meaning you have to shift back to the gear you were in and try it all again... and often for us when you lose momentum, you need to be strapped because you cannot get moving again.

A ZF/NV4500 type trans is pretty much worthless in the steep dunes also. Just can't get a shift in and if you do, the rpm drop is so bad that unless you're running 800hp you can't gain the rpms back for wheel speed to the top. Or when you need to shift down the split is so great that besides almost coming to a stop because the dune is so steep, you have lost all wheel speed- - and soft sand is all about wheel speed for heavy Broncos...

I am basing these comments on my decades of fighting this over and over and... over, literally in my backyard. So this is why I went with the 4r70 and it changed wheeling in snow and sand so much it was almost unbelievable. Several local buddies have done the same swap now (since we all wheel together) and they agree- they'd never go back. The auto in the snow is a whole new ball game. Not as beneficial if the snow you are in only allows crawling with the valve stems pulled as the auto and manual are much more equal.

With the 6r80 & USShift controller you have full auto but more important, you have 100% full manual shifting control at all times. The TC is your clutch and you stop/start or shift anytime you want. My TC will stay engaged in manual mode till 850rpm so I have braking ability with it till just above idle... not the same as a zf doubler option crawling down a rock face but I have just as much control with 4 large discs providing the same service(HB does make applying the pedal easier) ...more important is IF I need to pull out of a hazardous back end over the front type situation I can hammer my 6r and it will shift multiple times quicker than any manual- possibly saving an endover...

Guess I'm saying w/o hesitation :) I'd never go back to a manual as I'd be eliminating the huge advantage of applying power to the ground for sand and snow when needed.

Back to brakes... since the HB takes about zero flow but needs some pressure how small of a belt driven pump could be used? I know rack and pinion cars use HB and they only use/need 850psi for the rack so I wonder what else out there could be used for a dedicated HB only pump?


Or am I waaay off track... again?? :)
 

ntsqd

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TS that is some genuine tech, thanks! I've never seen it explained like that, at least it proves my theories are sound. My hat is off to you sir!
Thanks! My mentor really deserves the credit for noticing a pattern and putting the math model together, but I'm not sure he'd be happy about being named. He knows who he is, __ if you're reading this feel free to claim it or PM me or something.

nvrstk, you can use another PS pump or a hyd pump to drive a separate such system. At a former employer we used a tiny hyd pump driven by a VFD'd electric motor on the Hot Gas Test Stand (diy gas turbine engine used for turbo testing) to vary the pressure and flow of diesel into the combustion chamber. The nozzles we used were limited to 500 psi, so you can easily size a small enough pump. Or you could use a PS pump as-is and use one of those PS R&P regulators designed to cut down the PS pump's pressure to work with a R&P. That, coupled with a little datalogging (can you say "Arduino"?) would tell you what pressure isn't enough for the system to work right. Then could tailor the second pump's size as appropriate.
 
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nvrstuk

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I should have said the same... good tech stuff TS!

I got into the auto/man thing and couldn't stop... that's what happens when I use my keyboard instead of my phone... lol

I don't have any vacuum with my cam so that's not an option unless I go with an elect vacuum pump which I've thought of but I don't want the huge booster issue... again.

Cleanest and cheapest would be another ps pump. Steve, can you or someone verify that dual ps pumps are becoming more common in racing? I've read a few articles but I'm 1500 miles away from anything like that.

I'd like to not introduce another potential weak point into my vehicle since if anything driven by the belt dies it needs replacing before I can move on. Not common but I like long trips.

If I do this dual pump thing maybe get the same pump and pack a rebuilt spare from an AutoParts store so I have a $50 part in my box if I ever needed it along with a pressure reducing valve like TS said... that and some oil and a spare pulley... and a trailer to carry all my parts!! :) lol
 

ntsqd

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Just for discussion's sake let's say that you go with two hyd pumps instead of PS pumps. Assuming that the mounting location has the depth, why not rig them like a dry sump pump and run one behind the other? I want to say that I've seen hyd pumps that can be connected like this, but it has been a while since I've had cause to look at them.

Assuming that this is possible w/o resorting to one-off parts, then you could plumb them such that either could back-stop the other, likely with a few added bits of plumbing.
There you go, redundant systems all neatly packaged.
 

Yeller

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Been a long time since I did dual pumps. We did dual TC pumps with a single resi with the pressure lines Y’d together for more flow, it worked well for what we were doing with it, running a double ended ram fast dodging rocks and trees. In theory same could be done with a TC pump for the brakes and a CBR for the steering, or could use a Saginaw pump as well.

There’s no reason to need to run a separate resi for dual pumps unless you just want them separate. The nice part about using a TC and a CBR is they mount the same, are basically interchangeable and both readily available at any parts store as long as you don’t have to mod them beyond fittings. However if your happy with your current pump for steering there is no need to change that.

Or there is the electric MR2 option. Run it off of a relay on the brake switch mounted anywhere you can squeeze it in.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/2000-2005-Toyota-MR2-Spyder-Electric-Power-Steering-Pump-OEM-89657-17010-used/324414611253?epid=658110333&hash=item4b889e1f35:g:QXMAAOSwDTdfoAfK
 
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nvrstuk

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I'd probably do it TS's way but at firsth thought I'd like the look and simplicity of the electric MR2 pump..

Ultimate simplicity would be manual brakes but I think that is a dream.
.
 

73azbronco

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well for simplicity I went vacuum boost using wilwood and BB front disk big bearing rear drum. I'd say pedal pressure around fifty will start to get things locked up. Seems to stop as well as my 2000 Toyota taco.
 

ntsqd

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I don't think that it is a dream, but I do think that it will take either some iterations or a whole bunch of education & research along with a couple iterations to get it right. I believe that @68Ford is running a manual system, that is my faint recollection of his prior posts on the topic. My further recollection is that his is an all aftermarket system, and may include a balance bar. Searching his posts should reveal details.

Where boosters shine is that you can have both short pedal travel and good pedal feel. Can deliberately build a total system leverage ratio that if used manually would be way too stiff to be pleasant. Most have had boosters fail, or have driven a boosted vehicle engine-off, and know what that feels like. (I mean other than the terror of "what's wrong with the brakes!")

I think an important thing to quit thinking about as a major concern is fluid volume. It is a consideration, but folks place way too much emphasis on it. Pad knock-back is usually in the zone of .015" Doesn't take too much master cylinder piston stroke to move the pads back into contact with the rotor. After that any further pedal travel is flex and distortion within the brake system (including flex in the pedal and it's bracketry) combined with a very slight amount of pad compound compressibility.
 
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nvrstuk

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I've chatted with Wayne about it but... maybe another chat.

I need to drive his rig! :)
 

toddz69

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I've chatted with him a lot about trying his rig too. I'm sure he will chime in here at some point. He has dual MCs with a balance bar. I don't recall if he has the stock pedal assy or not.

Todd Z.
 

Apogee

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Not to throw yet another variable into the mix, but have you considered running a stepped-bore, quick take-up style master cylinder? This would provide what is essentially two master cylinders in one, the large low-pressure bore to take up the slack in the system and then the small high-pressure bore to reduce pedal effort to achieve the desired brake torque.

1982-1988 S10 w/ Manual brakes - Ø24mm/Ø31.75mm [Ø.94/Ø1.25]
1983-1994 S10 w/ Power brakes - Ø24mm/Ø36mm [Ø.94/Ø1.42]

The two units above both have snap-lock lids, of which I'm not a huge fan, but either should be relatively cheap and easy to try in your application.

Tobin
 
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nvrstuk

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... hoping to increase mpg back in the day...

All I've read about the GM step bores while researching the past year is how people hated them... that's ALL I know! lol You would think they would be ideal for what I'm looking for... Does anybody know anyone else that's used these? I was done at the GM dealership when GM was trying these... no experience with them.


I hadn't seen this guy's page before... too much here to cut/paste but if you're interested in a quick update about the low drag calipers and setp bore m/cs. It's the easiest/quickest read out of all the ones I've read in the past.

https://www.manualbrakes.com/faqs.html

I'll call this guy tomorrow and see what I can glean from him... :)
 
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Apogee

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There was a period of time early in the "pro-touring" phase of the muscle car movement back about 20 years ago where the manual S10 master cylinder I noted above was all the rage, so it's not unprecedented. As for the units themselves, they seem to get somewhat of a black eye due to some difficulties associated with bench bleeding the units, but han ving driven a few cars with them, they seemed to do what they needed to do and not in a way that was concerning or bothersome to me.

That said, if you've driven any GM application from the 80's through the early to mid-90's, then you've probably driven one as well.
 
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nvrstuk

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Well, that makes sense. Just because some people can't figure them out doesn't mean they arent any good... I appreciate the info on the S10 mc's. Definitely a simple way to go. Worth a try.

Was talking with Wayne about his set up last night.
He has 6 piston calipers up front which are smaller total than the T-bird-he said Todd would know. :) . Almost same dia caliper on the rear as I run and runs a 1" & 1 1/8" bore dual mc's if I remember correctly
Long pedal ratio to make up for running dual mc's

I think the S10 step would be worth trying as itsa whole lot simpler than building and mounting a 10:1 ratio pedal wrapped around my strg column, etc...
 
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nvrstuk

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Well, the Manual Brake guy who sells systems/conversions for GM cars said the step bore m/c's only work on the front... so my monster sized rear calipers would probably be suffering from the same symptoms if I went with a step bore than a straight bore...

Can anybody verify this? I can't so far.

Has anybody run a 2# residual valve on the rear before? Do the rotors get hot from 2# or is it just about enough to wipe water/slush off the rotor??

I have no idea...
 
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