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easiest way to replace bushing-rear of radius arms ? Done, thanks

DonsBolt

Bronco Guru
Joined
May 5, 2005
Messages
5,249
Loc.
Chestnut Hill, Mass
Yo guys

I have to replace the little round bushing on the rear of my radius arms. I hope I don't have to disconect everything to replace them.

Here is what I hope I can do.

Jack the truck up, either on a lift, or with 4 big jack stands.
remove front tires
Remove front spriings
remove track bar
remove shocks
remove the front of the driveshaft.

Then loosen the two bolts on the rear of the radius arms, then remove one of them, pull the axle foward just enough to change that one out. The put the bolt back in that one loos, remove the other one, and do the same.

I hope there is enough movement in the drag link, my braided stainess brake line, so I don't have to mess with the steering or the brakes. I am sure there is plenty on the right side, the left is what I am concerned about.

Just figured I would see how you all have replaced those donut shaped bushings, and any tricks to make it as easy as posible.

Also I have a set of the rubber bushings, would you use those or order a set of urethane bushings or even a set of the offset bushings??????
 
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needabronco

Bronco Guru
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Jul 2, 2004
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6,411
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Prescott/Farmington
I would remove the track bar and use a come along to pull the axle forward enough to be able to change out the bushings. If you need more 'room' then you could disconnect the shocks and the top mount of the coils and then pull the front out. Be very careful not to pull your rig off the jack stands, I read once that it makes a really nice marks on a brand new concrete floor... And it makes a loud crash:-X
 

TBS-POPS

Bronco Guru
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Jun 16, 2007
Messages
1,388
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valley springs, ca
You dont even have to take that much apart to replace the rear rounb bushings!!! Just jack up the truck and get stands under the frame up front. just enough to still leave the tires on the ground. then just pull the rear nuts and roll the whole thing foward enough to replace the front bushing then push it back in!! You can do 1 side at a time if you want. just be careful ya dont push the truck off the stands!!! BE CAREFULL!!
 
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DonsBolt

DonsBolt

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so it's that easy, hmmm cool

I think I will at least remove the upper bolt for the track bar, and the bottom shock bolts.

So there is enough movement in the coil springs???? Cool
 
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DonsBolt

DonsBolt

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Are you putting in the trick offset rubber bushings?

I am not sure
I have noticed a funky feeling in my front end the past week or so. I got under there today and the right side bushings are in bad shape. They are the only origional bushings left on my truck from when I bought it.

I have a set of new stock rubber ones I may just use for now, unless there is a reason to order a set of the offset bushings.

The ones on it now are old urethane bushings
 

garberz

Bronco Influencer
Joined
Jun 24, 2007
Messages
6,861
Loc.
Conejo Valley, Ca.
Rubber flexes way better than urethane. I would use the stock rubber ones if thats what you have. The offset ones have a little preload in them to help with flex. either ones will be better than urethane.
 

TBS-POPS

Bronco Guru
Joined
Jun 16, 2007
Messages
1,388
Loc.
valley springs, ca
Go for it Don!! It's alot easier than ya think!!! I dont even loosen the trac-bar! Loosen it only if you cant get the right side foward enough but I'll bet ya can...
 

blubuckaroo

Grease Monkey
Joined
Jun 11, 2007
Messages
11,795
Loc.
Ridgefield WA
I usually throw out the poly ones when I get them in a kit. Rubber lasts 3 to 1longer and goves better articulation than poly.
 

Mark

Contributor
Bronco Klutz
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Aug 29, 2003
Messages
5,414
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NW Indiana
Rubber flexes way better than urethane. I would use the stock rubber ones if thats what you have. The offset ones have a little preload in them to help with flex. either ones will be better than urethane.
The radius arm attachment at the frame is not a flex point, so that's a moot point in the rubber vs urethane debate.
With a suspension lift, you change the geometry of the radius arms. The offset bushings (rubber or urethane) counter this geometry change to provide less stress on the bushings, allowing them to last longer - that's their benefit.
Promoting greater flex is simply a marketing gimmick.
 

ransil

Bronco Guru
Joined
Sep 6, 2003
Messages
8,127
You dont even have to take that much apart to replace the rear rounb bushings!!! Just jack up the truck and get stands under the frame up front. just enough to still leave the tires on the ground. then just pull the rear nuts and roll the whole thing foward enough to replace the front bushing then push it back in!! You can do 1 side at a time if you want. just be careful ya dont push the truck off the stands!!! BE CAREFULL!!

last time I tried this, I need a high lift jack strapped to a 2x8 pushing on the rear axle. strapping the jack was not pretty. I did each side separate.
 

blubuckaroo

Grease Monkey
Joined
Jun 11, 2007
Messages
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Ridgefield WA
The radius arm attachment at the frame is not a flex point, so that's a moot point in the rubber vs urethane debate.
With a suspension lift, you change the geometry of the radius arms. The offset bushings (rubber or urethane) counter this geometry change to provide less stress on the bushings, allowing them to last longer - that's their benefit.
Promoting greater flex is simply a marketing gimmick.

Huh? No flex at the radius arms? Just get out of the car and watch!
 

Mark

Contributor
Bronco Klutz
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Aug 29, 2003
Messages
5,414
Loc.
NW Indiana
Huh? No flex at the radius arms? Just get out of the car and watch!

There is no difference in flex for the radius arm attachment at the frame between rubber, urethane, stud or heim. The flex occurs at the "C" bushings - the axle connection point. See? You get flex with longer arms because of leverage on the "C" bushings, or with a wristed axle housing you free the axle to pivot, or with wristed arms you allow the arm to pivot with the axle.
 
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blubuckaroo

Grease Monkey
Joined
Jun 11, 2007
Messages
11,795
Loc.
Ridgefield WA
Mark,
You're making this too easy for me!

Your quote:
"The radius arm attachment at the frame is not a flex point"

What you ment to say?
"There is no difference in flex for the radius arm attachment at the frame between rubber, urethane, stud or heim"
 

Mark

Contributor
Bronco Klutz
Joined
Aug 29, 2003
Messages
5,414
Loc.
NW Indiana
Mark,
You're making this too easy for me!
Your quote:
"The radius arm attachment at the frame is not a flex point"
What you ment to say?
"There is no difference in flex for the radius arm attachment at the frame between rubber, urethane, stud or heim"
blubuckaroo,
You took one sentence out of a paragraph, and therefore took it out of context. If you read the entire paragraph, then my meaning should be clear. I did explain better in my subsequent post.

Sorry for the hijack donsbolt.
 

Mark

Contributor
Bronco Klutz
Joined
Aug 29, 2003
Messages
5,414
Loc.
NW Indiana
Sorry but I still can't understand how a front spring can compress without flexing the rear of the radius arm. ?:?

It does move some, but there is no difference in the amount between rubber, poly,or stud, heim, or johnny joint.
 
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DonsBolt

DonsBolt

Bronco Guru
Joined
May 5, 2005
Messages
5,249
Loc.
Chestnut Hill, Mass
Hey guys

I am going to replace them later this afternoon

I tried a 1 1/16 wrench didn't fit on the bolt 1 1/8 fit but was loose

you know what size it is????
 
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DonsBolt

DonsBolt

Bronco Guru
Joined
May 5, 2005
Messages
5,249
Loc.
Chestnut Hill, Mass
well I did some searching, and every thing I read said 1 1/8 but just feels loose. My wrench had really never been used, but I tried it on each bolt, and was able to break them both loose.

I just find it weird it may be a metric bolt
 
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