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Explorer EFI Mass Buy Feeler.

Galt72

Contributor
Newbie
Joined
Apr 21, 2004
Messages
618
I took all the efi stuff/wiring off a 99 Mountaineer from pick and pull yesterday. Took me 3 1/2 hrs of the hardest dam wrenching I ever did in my life. That sucker ate my lunch. My arms and hands look like hamburger from all the tight spaces you need to jam them into. Best to be a long skinny armed guy. My arms are average, no way a guy with big arms, hands is doing this. Don't bother trying.

A little how to or whats in store

remove large intake hose
Unbolt the throttle cable assembly
unbolt the throttle body
remove the harness from the ecm and firewall. remove ecm
unbolt the intake. The left back bolt is a bitch. it helps to
unplug as much as you can for the vacuum stuff at left rear intake. Injuries!!
unbolt the intake and coil packs.
cut fuel lines to intake
pull up on the intake and cut the hoses going to the underside of the intake.
you can unbolt the lower intake now or wait till later.
cut radiator hoses.
unbolt radiator top bolts and trans and ac lines going in and out on each side up top. the passenger side bottom you can reach from above.
remove side plastic inner fenders.
remove bottom rad line from driver inner fender.
remove radiator.

go back in by driver inner fender and remove oil sending plug. It was easier to unscrew the entire plug then unsnap the connection. Injuries !!
forget the harmonic balancer. It's just as cheap to get a new one or used one on ebay. and you don't have to mess with the fan.
cut the serp belt.
unbolt the alternator and remove it's long bracket. Now you can access the crank sensor.
cut the hoses around the thermostat housing and remove the cam sensor.
fish out the harness from the front of the engine. Now your starting to feel like your getting somewhere.

the main harness runs right down the top back of the transmission. One of the O2 sensors runs down the back of the block on the drivers side. It is held on by plastic snaps. You'll need a extra wide and long type screwdriver to reach up from the driver inner fender and snap those loose. One has to gotten from above. pull up the 02 harness. have a good flashlight.

there are snaps holding the transmission harness on top of the transmission. use that same screwdriver or any tool you can to reach down over the back of the motor and unplug it.

Remove the passenger side exhaust pipe where it bolts to the manifold. P@P cuts the exhaust pipe off. If not a sawsall would be handy about now. go back around to the driver side and disconnect the two connections at the transmission and try to push them up on top of the transmission. Flashlight needed.

Your really hating life about now. go back to the passenger side and pull on the harness. This took me several tries. Once you feel the trans harness plug unsnap it. Pull the small section of trans harness back over the top of the transfer case and out of the vehicle.
go back over to the passenger wheel well and fish the big plug over to you. I used channel locks to bend up a piece of aluminum shield that was in the way. Once it's past that you can go back up on the engine and fish the plug back out the side of the motor.

Still mounted on the firewall is a big plug. you will need that and as much wire as you can take. it goes behind the power brake booster and into the bottom of the big fuse box on the driver side. Cut the wires underneath the box from the driver inner fender. If you want to use the relay box take that as well.

last but not least your 0bd2 connector and inertia switch. they are inside the cab. By now your totally exhausted but done. keep all the little special nuts and bolts that you took off along the way.

Take, food, drinks, hand cleaner, rag or two, bandaids, a ball cap to protect your head, change of clothes and preload on motrin.

Tools, all your metric sockets you have long and short up to 17 and extensions. Metric wrenches . both types of screwdrivers, channel locks, hammer, sharp knife, wire cutters, crescent wrench, battery sawsall. The intake cover plate has two screws that are the star type socket. Forget what they are called but you will need those to remove it. If you forget just use your screw driver and bust the cover plate by prying it up.

You will be one tired, dirty, tore up individual and so happy to be headed home.
 
Last edited by a moderator:

EBGeek

Sr. Member
Joined
Nov 25, 2008
Messages
411
Nice description of the process, Galt. Unfortunately very accurate, I assume. I lucked out and found a nice engine already pulled and on a pallet, so I think I cheated. But as I've told others, if I had to do it again I would opt for buying a whole donor vehicle and have the luxury of doing all that hacking at home at your own pace.

You going to get in line to have Garry re-do your harness/ECM?
 

Galt72

Contributor
Newbie
Joined
Apr 21, 2004
Messages
618
Nice description of the process, Galt. Unfortunately very accurate, I assume. I lucked out and found a nice engine already pulled and on a pallet, so I think I cheated. But as I've told others, if I had to do it again I would opt for buying a whole donor vehicle and have the luxury of doing all that hacking at home at your own pace. You going to get in line to have Garry re-do your harness/ECM?

Thanks, I think I wrote it just to help work out my trama from the event...lol

I'm trying to follow the videos and see if I can get the harness worked out. about 80% seems straight forward but I still have lots of questions brewing. I've had been looking for awhile for a donor car but it was always something, to far away, didn't run, to much money etc. and I got impatient.
 

Casey4wd

Sr. Member
Joined
Apr 30, 2015
Messages
560
Loc.
Austin, Texas
Galt72 - Thank you for posting. I am considering this and thought I had a great donor, but the seller went dark on me. Your post is helpful in knowing what it would take to get all the necessary elements pulled in a day. I would not have the luxury of bringing a donor vehicle to my house, so it would need to be pulled and then the engine could be set-up on an engine stand till I got it all ready for the transplant.
 

sanndmann3

Bronco Guru
Joined
Jun 13, 2007
Messages
1,775
I took the cam sensor housing to work and weld up the diameter and recut it to the correct size. weld was a bit porous due to oil impregnated in the casting but it worked well.
 

904Bronco

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Sep 28, 2004
Messages
5,925
Loc.
San Martin, CA
Thanks, I think I wrote it just to help work out my trama from the event...lol

I'm trying to follow the videos and see if I can get the harness worked out. about 80% seems straight forward but I still have lots of questions brewing. I've had been looking for awhile for a donor car but it was always something, to far away, didn't run, to much money etc. and I got impatient.

I recently had an unpleasant experience at one of the San Jose PnP's. Similar to you I walked in, paid my $2 and asked here is my list can I get an unit price for all this. I was told $240 for all the Explorer stuff I wanted. I got busy and dirty, a couple hrs later they rang me up at almost $500! I said I was told this price by this employee... No he was wrong, they dinged me for each item and a core charge on the aluminum brackets... I walked away with only the items I absolutely needed, still $100.

Sir I would like to work with you... I tell you what, I will give you $240 for everything. Oh no I cannot do that, I could lose my job. Well that $140 more than you are going to get from the employee who dumps these unsold parts in the nearest wreaked car to your back door. :-X
 

ZOSO

Full Member
Joined
Jan 25, 2003
Messages
347
I recently had an unpleasant experience at one of the San Jose PnP's. Similar to you I walked in, paid my $2 and asked here is my list can I get an unit price for all this. I was told $240 for all the Explorer stuff I wanted. I got busy and dirty, a couple hrs later they rang me up at almost $500! I said I was told this price by this employee... No he was wrong, they dinged me for each item and a core charge on the aluminum brackets... I walked away with only the items I absolutely needed, still $100.

Sir I would like to work with you... I tell you what, I will give you $240 for everything. Oh no I cannot do that, I could lose my job. Well that $140 more than you are going to get from the employee who dumps these unsold parts in the nearest wreaked car to your back door. :-X

I had a similar experience. After I worked for an hour to pull all the same stuff, I went out to my truck for a drink. When I came back in I asked them prices on everything. I was quoted over $600 bucks. I packed up and left. Not gonna pay that to a junk yard. Came home and found a complete explorer on craigslist for $400. Thing had a rod out the oil pan but I just needed the efi stuff. Stripped what I wanted including the 4r70w which I wasnt planning on doing. I sold the 8.8 to a jeep guy for 200. sold the p heads for 100. took the rest to scrap for 90. so all in total I spent 10 bucks for all the efi parts.
 

Galt72

Contributor
Newbie
Joined
Apr 21, 2004
Messages
618
Galt72 - Thank you for posting. I am considering this and thought I had a great donor, but the seller went dark on me. Your post is helpful in knowing what it would take to get all the necessary elements pulled in a day. I would not have the luxury of bringing a donor vehicle to my house, so it would need to be pulled and then the engine could be set-up on an engine stand till I got it all ready for the transplant.
Casey it's not any fun but can be done in a day. I rushed it as fast as I could 3 1/2 hrs. Print out my list and take it with you. It will at least keep u moving. The hardest part is finding a complete vehice so ur not running all over the lot.
 

toddz69

Sponsor/Vendor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Nov 28, 2001
Messages
10,423
Thanks for the info on pulling everything. I've been looking at the trucks with an eye towards pulling a harness and realized that it's not going to be a quick and easy pull. A friend recently bought a complete truck and I'm hoping I can buy the bits from him and pull at my leisure at his house.

Todd Z.
 
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