Fender Flare Question

[Annapolis76EB]

In my haste to get the Bronco ready for paint in 12 days I broke one of my rear fender flares removing it. It is not too big of deal since I need fronts anyways, but I am concerned about the holes on the new flares lining up. Can anyone identify these flares? Will I have a problem puting new flares on the rear fenders with the current holes or am I worried for nothing? Thanks guys; I appreciate the insight.

P.S.-Looking for a full set of flares if anyone is selling some that would work.;D

 

[Annapolis76EB]

Still trying to upload the pics. Frustrating!

 

[mustangtoby]

I would try and clamp them in place and get behind the fenders to mark the holes. If you do them one hole at a time and put a screw in it (or rivet) they should turn out fine.

 

[Annapolis76EB]

My concern is that the new flares will have a different hole pattern. Think this will be an issue?

 

[mustangtoby]

I have the Gorilla flares, they come without holes. You have to drill through them into the fenders. I assume fiberglass come without holes too?

 

[thegreatjustino]

I bought a set of Kentrol fiberglass flares many years ago that did not come with pre-drilled holes. As mustangtoby said, gorilla flares don't come with pre-drilled holes either.

 

[garberz]

If you buy flares with holes and they don't line up with the old holes, then just drill for the new holes, and the old holes will be covered up by the flares anyway.

 

[Annapolis76EB]

Did you have fiberglass flares before you got the gorilla lares and did they fit your rear cut out OK? I don't think Bushwackers are going to work for me since they don't seem to have as wide of an opening as my fiberglass ones but the gorillas seem to be wider.

 

[BroncoDesign]

Hi-
New to the Forum. I make ultra heavy fiberglass flares. No predrilled holes. They match the old style Stroppe, and ABS bushwacker flares (which you have in the photos). Like one guy said if you buy the flexy flares, mine or Kentrols, theres no holes. Redrill and hope theres no holes that "almost" match because you'll end up with oversized holes that won't hold a rivet. The fix there is to use a long rivet and a washer so the rivet has something to grip and squeeze against. If you have questions email me at mstandley@broncoDesign.com. I can walk you through it.

 

[mustangtoby]

Mine had fiberglass before I bought gorilla flares. I cut it out a lot bigger so matching holes was not an issue. I also used small allen head bolts in stainless steel instead of rivets. Now my flares are removeable, and with flexy flares I shouldn't ever break one.

 

[Annapolis76EB]

Sent you an email broncodesign. Thanks for all of the insight and I really like the allen bolt idea.

 

[Explorer]

I just put a new/old set of those flares on with the stainless button head bolts and nylock nuts. If you go that route grease the bolts. The stainless heats up fast and will seize with the nylock nuts. I was using an air ratchet and had to cut a couple off before I figured out what was going on. Did the rest by hand and still had to go slow with them. #10's 1/2" long with washer on both sides worked really well.

 

[Annapolis76EB]

I wouldn't mind putting the exact smae flares back on if I could find them. Any idea if they are still around anywhere? I really like the look. Thanks for the advice on the bolts; I will be very careful.

 

[ep67bro]

Hey I have two rear fender flares that I would sell that look alot like what you took off. They are used what side did you break? I am only 15 minutes from Annapolis and I have alot of parts. PM me and I can give you my number.

 

[Annapolis76EB]

Hey EP,

Nice to know you are close. Just sent you a PM.

 

[needabronco]

Since your going for paint anyway, weld up the holes(or have them do it) and then when you get back from paint and are ready for new flares simply drill new ones. Then there's no chance of having your holes not line up or being a 'hair' off and the rivets not work... I'm assuming your having body work done also, and this isn't a $199 Maaco special paint job...

 

[Annapolis76EB]

Having body work done, rust taken care of and body holes filled, but I don't want to start drilling through the new paint when it is done. Hopefully I can find some flares shortly (got some good leads) and have everything mocked up before the body shop takes it away for a month. No MAACO special here.

 

[mustangtoby]

Still a good idea to weld up the holes then install new flares with allen head bolts, them remove for paint. Good thinking, Casey!

 

[BroncoDesign]

Hey guys-
I agree with Needabronco. if you're doing it right, I'd weld up the old holes, grind it smooth, epoxy prime both sides, and hand block any heat distortions before it goes to paint. I know your not doing a show truck but as my dad always said; "Any job worth doing, is worth doing right."
Just my one and a half cents worth.

 

[got-broncos]

Your flairs are fiberglass. You can fix those pretty cheap. Then use the same holes.