chrisd0729
Full Member
Anyone know what this is called or where to find it? Looking for the rubber grommet that seals the firewall hole where the power brake rod goes through (circled in the pic below).
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Firewall grommet for Brake rod
- Thread starter chrisd0729
- Start date
You can use the one that is sold for the clutch rod through the floor...
Hey Everyone,
This forum is great! I didn't think it would be this painless to find the part number for the boot/grommet.
Thanks Stoker for providing a part number for JBG!
I do have a question about the install. Will this install from the engine compartment into the cab by disconnecting the rod assembly inside the engine compartment and sliding the boot over the fork on the rod? Is there enough give in that opening to allow for that? (It sure would have been great to have installed correctly when it was in the shop.)
Thanks,
Jeff
This forum is great! I didn't think it would be this painless to find the part number for the boot/grommet.
Thanks Stoker for providing a part number for JBG!
I do have a question about the install. Will this install from the engine compartment into the cab by disconnecting the rod assembly inside the engine compartment and sliding the boot over the fork on the rod? Is there enough give in that opening to allow for that? (It sure would have been great to have installed correctly when it was in the shop.)
Thanks,
Jeff
Hey Again,
Has anyone installed the boot to an assembled brake system like OP showed in the first pic?
The boot is supposed to arrive tomorrow and I'd like to have a plan before I get started.
Thanks,
Jeff
Has anyone installed the boot to an assembled brake system like OP showed in the first pic?
The boot is supposed to arrive tomorrow and I'd like to have a plan before I get started.
Thanks,
Jeff
- Joined
- Nov 11, 2007
- Messages
- 8,223
How in bronco heaven did you get the stock wire harness firewall grommet and wiring to look so good?
Hi All,
Still fishing for some practical advice.
I found some detail on the Tom's Bronco site about installing the power brake system. This pic is probably a good example of what I'll be seeing when I get into this.
The instructions with the Tom's system says to install the boot on the rod as one of the first steps. Obviously it would be easier installing it before the bracket is installed.
The boot will arrive later this morning. I'll be able feel how flexible it is. Not sure what the material is; but, I am thinking that I might be able to make it a little more flexible by soaking it in hot water. That will be the first check. If the opening on the smaller end can be opened up enough to get it over the forks then I should be able to do everything from the engine compartment.
It may be easier than I think to disconnect the rod at the brake pedal lever in the cab so it might not be as big a problem as I think.
I was also thinking about cutting a relief slit in the interior end and then zip tying it once installed through the firewall.
I'm just not as nimble as I used to be, so working under the dash isn't something that comes easy.
Anyone else go through this? Any thoughts would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Jeff
Still fishing for some practical advice.
I found some detail on the Tom's Bronco site about installing the power brake system. This pic is probably a good example of what I'll be seeing when I get into this.
The instructions with the Tom's system says to install the boot on the rod as one of the first steps. Obviously it would be easier installing it before the bracket is installed.
The boot will arrive later this morning. I'll be able feel how flexible it is. Not sure what the material is; but, I am thinking that I might be able to make it a little more flexible by soaking it in hot water. That will be the first check. If the opening on the smaller end can be opened up enough to get it over the forks then I should be able to do everything from the engine compartment.
It may be easier than I think to disconnect the rod at the brake pedal lever in the cab so it might not be as big a problem as I think.
I was also thinking about cutting a relief slit in the interior end and then zip tying it once installed through the firewall.
I'm just not as nimble as I used to be, so working under the dash isn't something that comes easy.
Anyone else go through this? Any thoughts would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Jeff
It’s not too awful bad to get the linkage undone … just have to deal with the brake light switch and its fiddley bits. If your brake light switch isn’t working, now would be a good time to replace it. If you have a table the same height as the floor board, put it beside the Bronco and you’ve got a much easier job of it. Much easier on your back.
Randy
Randy
The boot is in the cab.
Hey Again,
I guess this was meant to be a real learning experience.
I am attaching a picture of the rod that I removed from the Bronco this morning.
I haven't seen one that looks like this before.
Getting the boot over the larger diameter rod wasn't too bad. In fact, I probably could have done this all from the engine compartment without removing the rod from the brake pedal.
That being said... the male portion of the assembly is what is in the cab and attaches to the pin on the brake pedal. When I removed the brake rod from both ends I found that the male portion of the rod was not secured to the female part of the assembly. In other words, the two shafts were not secured together in any way.
I guess that with the male portion of the rod bottoming out in the other part of the assembly there's no way for it to collapse any further. I'm just not sure how comfortable to be with that arrangement. I don't know that they can slide far enough apart to separate.
There's a very small allen set screw that you can see in the pic. I will tighten it up when installed. I thought about a very small drop of blue Loctite, too.
Am I missing anything?
Thanks,
Jeff
I guess this was meant to be a real learning experience.
I am attaching a picture of the rod that I removed from the Bronco this morning.
I haven't seen one that looks like this before.
Getting the boot over the larger diameter rod wasn't too bad. In fact, I probably could have done this all from the engine compartment without removing the rod from the brake pedal.
That being said... the male portion of the assembly is what is in the cab and attaches to the pin on the brake pedal. When I removed the brake rod from both ends I found that the male portion of the rod was not secured to the female part of the assembly. In other words, the two shafts were not secured together in any way.
I guess that with the male portion of the rod bottoming out in the other part of the assembly there's no way for it to collapse any further. I'm just not sure how comfortable to be with that arrangement. I don't know that they can slide far enough apart to separate.
There's a very small allen set screw that you can see in the pic. I will tighten it up when installed. I thought about a very small drop of blue Loctite, too.
Am I missing anything?
Thanks,
Jeff
- Joined
- Dec 31, 2015
- Messages
- 2,076
Yes, I’ve seen it. One like it came on a new-to-me rig. Brakes were a bit soft, but was just bringing it up to the house to wash it. Was a bit of an oh 
Sherlock moment when heading back to the garage and the pedal went to the floor.
Not the best design, and the male portion was under-endowed. The useless little set screw was leaving tracks as it slid back and forth inside the tube. Adding a length of rod in the tube at least gave it nowhere to compress. Pinned on both ends, it didn’t seem to have room to come apart.
Not sure who manufactured or engineered it, but they need to be flogged.
Sherlock moment when heading back to the garage and the pedal went to the floor.Not the best design, and the male portion was under-endowed. The useless little set screw was leaving tracks as it slid back and forth inside the tube. Adding a length of rod in the tube at least gave it nowhere to compress. Pinned on both ends, it didn’t seem to have room to come apart.
Not sure who manufactured or engineered it, but they need to be flogged.
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- Joined
- Nov 3, 2003
- Messages
- 49,370
Surprise, surprise! (Said in his best Gomer Pyle voice)
And in that same vein, just put some lube on the two shafts. It’ll be fine…
But more seriously, yeah that small setscrew isn’t a whole lot for a brake component.
At the very least, it should’ve been used as an adjustment tool for initial set up, locked down, marked in place, removed, dimpled, Locktited, and then welded!
In fact, welding seems the only reasonable solution.
The component itself looks strong, and is a way to utilize the original brake rod. Seemingly a way to simplify installation.
But it makes the threaded rod and clevis of some other designs look much safer! I would set it up, then pin it and weld it.
Don't want to be selling that rig with that possibly happening to a future owner.
Paul
And in that same vein, just put some lube on the two shafts. It’ll be fine…
But more seriously, yeah that small setscrew isn’t a whole lot for a brake component.
At the very least, it should’ve been used as an adjustment tool for initial set up, locked down, marked in place, removed, dimpled, Locktited, and then welded!
In fact, welding seems the only reasonable solution.
The component itself looks strong, and is a way to utilize the original brake rod. Seemingly a way to simplify installation.
But it makes the threaded rod and clevis of some other designs look much safer! I would set it up, then pin it and weld it.
Don't want to be selling that rig with that possibly happening to a future owner.
Paul
Mary and Paul,
Thanks for your input.
Just to clarify your suggestion, Paul, is your suggestion for the dimpling drilling into the male portion of the assembly so that the set screw has a fixed location indented into the shaft that won't allow movement? What is your suggestion for welding? My thought are that a couple of relatively small tack welds will serve the purpose.
I don't know why we remember the stuff we do.... I was a co-op engineering student at GMAD Fremont (now Tesla) back in the '70s. Motor Vehicle Safety Standards (MVSS) were something that I believe were federal requirements and addressed components and systems that had important safety considerations. For me it's a little tough to understand that there was much thought to this design regarding safety, unless the thought was that the two parts of the assembly could never be pulled apart enough for the male to drop out of the female....
Anyway.... one more thing to improve for the benefit of the safety of a new owner and my peace of mind.
Thanks,
Jeff
Thanks for your input.
Just to clarify your suggestion, Paul, is your suggestion for the dimpling drilling into the male portion of the assembly so that the set screw has a fixed location indented into the shaft that won't allow movement? What is your suggestion for welding? My thought are that a couple of relatively small tack welds will serve the purpose.
I don't know why we remember the stuff we do.... I was a co-op engineering student at GMAD Fremont (now Tesla) back in the '70s. Motor Vehicle Safety Standards (MVSS) were something that I believe were federal requirements and addressed components and systems that had important safety considerations. For me it's a little tough to understand that there was much thought to this design regarding safety, unless the thought was that the two parts of the assembly could never be pulled apart enough for the male to drop out of the female....
Anyway.... one more thing to improve for the benefit of the safety of a new owner and my peace of mind.
Thanks,
Jeff
- Joined
- Nov 3, 2003
- Messages
- 49,370
Yes, by dimple I meant just that.
Even still, that does look like an awfully small set screw for such an important and robust duty.
The amount of pressure that can sometimes be applied by a leg during a panic stop must be very serious.
I wonder if through-drilling and pinning would be better.
And even here, it seems like more than one would be a best practice.
Hence, my thoughts on welding…
Even still, that does look like an awfully small set screw for such an important and robust duty.
The amount of pressure that can sometimes be applied by a leg during a panic stop must be very serious.
I wonder if through-drilling and pinning would be better.
And even here, it seems like more than one would be a best practice.
Hence, my thoughts on welding…
I would either weld it or bond it with JB weld it. Otherwise I think I would drill it and pin it as Dirtdonk said.
Or if you’re in the position where you have a drill press, make a mark where is correct length and put both pieces on the press table and drill a slightly larger through hole and put a 12-24. Bolt, lock washer and red loctite the nut in place. Plenty strong and easy enough to disassemble if necessary.
Randy
Randy
Hey Everyone,
Time to get back to work on the '70.
Other than aligning the eyes properly on both ends of the rod assembly, what should I really be concerned about lengthwise? The truck has been running with the rod assembly bottomed out (or at least that is the way I took delivery of it). Should I be concerned about the changing the depth/length? If so, is the a recommended guideline for setup?
Thanks for all the input.
Jeff
Time to get back to work on the '70.
Other than aligning the eyes properly on both ends of the rod assembly, what should I really be concerned about lengthwise? The truck has been running with the rod assembly bottomed out (or at least that is the way I took delivery of it). Should I be concerned about the changing the depth/length? If so, is the a recommended guideline for setup?
Thanks for all the input.
Jeff
Hey Madgyver,
Thanks for the reply.
That's my question right now... how should the length be set?
I do plan on welding it once I confirm the length. (I don't know that I can go wrong with it being as short as it has been (i.e. all the way collapsed).)
Jeff
Thanks for the reply.
That's my question right now... how should the length be set?
I do plan on welding it once I confirm the length. (I don't know that I can go wrong with it being as short as it has been (i.e. all the way collapsed).)
Jeff
