Firewall Insulation

[73AnneBoleyn]

Quick question. I am missing the firewall insulation on the passenger side, so I ordered a firewall kit from one of the vendors. I'm not sure how I thought I would need to install it, but it appears that I have to remove everything from the firewall (dash, steering wheel, various cables, etc, etc) in order to install it. Is that correct? Please tell me I'm wrong.

If I have to pull everything to install this thing, I'm putting it up for sale in the classifieds.

 

[englewoodcowboy]

yes, everything that attaches to the firewall needs to come off prior to attaching the factory type insulation.

 

[KeithKinPhx]

Assuming you have the black rigid ABS firewall sound deadening panel you need an empty under dash area. Think of it as an opportunity to add AC or a new wiring harness or Ididit steering column or all of the above. Ask me how I know.

What started out as a simple switch to FiTech EFI has become a darn near full restoration.

 

[73azbronco]

Ahhhhhhhh! flashbacks of just needing a valve cover gasket, help!!!

 

[73AnneBoleyn]

Argghh...that's what I was afraid of. Thanks, y'all!

 

[bknbronco]

yup pull everything ebrake pedal assembly, brake and gas pedal assembly, heator box.....its a blast.....then a few days after you install it and begin to love it your master cylinder will leak inside the firewall and drip down the plastic firewall insulator and it will crack in a million pieces and all you work will have been for nothing. ASK me how i know!

 

[boonz28]

Ouch, thats brutal bknbronco.

I'm glad i saw this post. I'm starting to lean towards a hard top and full interior for my rig and i've been looking into different insulation options. Factory insulation is out of the question for me as well knowing this.

 

[bknbronco]

well it was hard to swallow when i came out in the morning.....that being said....when i get around to painting my interior i will replace it with the same thing and hope i dont spring another leak. That firewall insulator piece with the thick backing is BAD ASS! i couldnt imagine not having it.

 

[American180]

If I have to pull everything to install this thing, I'm putting it up for sale in the classifieds.

I'm looking for a Bronco so how much? lol ;D

 

[73AnneBoleyn]

Negative on the ABS plastic one. This is the one I have, from JBG. I guess I could just cut some slits in it from the holes to the edges, and fit it that way around everything coming through the firewall? I don't even know if it's worth the effort. How much does this stuff actually help keep the heat out, on a rig that never runs with doors anyhow?

 

[nvrstuk]

I can't give a definitive answer for you how much it would help w/o doors but I run w/o doors for 5 months a year and now having a MUCH cooler floor while driving around w/o doors makes remarkable difference!

 

[73azbronco]

OK, it's been years, so bear with me, but when I pulled all the stuff off the inside of my firewall, I'm not remembering the factory brackets like brake and clutch pedal and ebrake mounting over anything, am I wrong? I'd like to get mine on in a day or two, just have not started there yet. The red book of interior parts does not do a good job showing this issue. Strangely it shows zero insulation other than sealant around the holes, but does show carpet and all other weatherstripping.

I sit corrected, I'm scraping off the remnants right now from under the heater assembly mounting pads. Pretty funny, they thought 1/16th of pad was "protection" back then. I'm using dynamatt under the WH firewall pad. That should do it.

 

[Smedley]

So, with doing a complete resto, with everything on the tub removed, what is the best option for firewall insulation?

Thanks
Will

 

[73azbronco]

Factory original? Restomod? Lowest heat possible?

I'm going last option, lowest heat transfer I can get. First, interior was rhinolined but thats not the name of the product I used, it's thicker. It appears to give me about 1/16th of layer by itself. Next is Dynaliner from dynamat, I'm using repro factory firewall insulation from WH as guide to cut dynaliner which has sticky back and sticks to anything. I know dynamat says to use their aluminum foil based product first, but I can't see as that much extra thickness would be a good idea. Plus, I'm in AZ and the rubbery like material under the foil would tend to go liquid I think in our heat. Beyond that then floors are getting Dynamatt, from dynaliner, It is thicker as in almost 1/4 inch, but is noit stickey. You use their tape to tape all the parts together and since we have flat panels I expect a really good finish. I will then use a cloth like insulator material from fabric store, the same stuff on back of repop WH firewall insulator, then carpet. To keep heat from ever getting to body, I wrapped my headers and exhaust.

 

[KeithKinPhx]

I am in the process of redoing my interior and engine bay. Living like 73AZBronco in Phoenix heat is the enemy. So on the engine side of the tunnel in am wrapping my headers with Titanium wraps and putting in a DEI heat and sound shield. On the inside I am putting Lizardskin and topping with Stinger Roadkill carpet pad then carpeting. I just like the name Stinger Roadkill. Product has good reviews online.

 

[73azbronco]

Sounds great!!

So, back to does everything need to come off to put on the firewall insulation. No, but most does. After just looking at my firewall with brake bracket, gas pedal, and emer brake bracket as the only thing loosely in place, here is what needs to come off or not come off:

What does not: emergency brake bracket, brake pedal/clutch assembly.

Needs to come off: gas pedal bracket, heater assembly, and anything going through firewall like heater control cable, any wiring.

 

[nvrstuk]

Really, the best thing you can do is to keep the heat OFF the firewall and floors in the 1st place. Do like the factory and put the shielding on the HEAT source side, which is of course the engine side.

Im talking nice looking SS or alum sheetmetal. My buddy did it decades ago and I finally did it... remarkable difference! I will do a temp test on the same floor spots ( when it gets to 100F again ) that I did when I did the heat torture test ( radiator test).

 

[73azbronco]

To late.

Body already on. No time to mod now.

Maybe next life

 

[73azbronco]

Today, I'm mounting the vendor repop firewall bulkhead piece. I can't for the life of me get the rubber grommets through the firewall. Ripped one apart trying every which way. Sadly, one 40 plus year old OEM grommet I found in my pile of stuff is in better more pliable shape than the brand new repop ones. So, I'm thinking the only reason they used the grommets is to speed assembly line work. I'm going to go look at using stainless bolts and fender washer with rubber washers to seal the hole. Then use a nylon nut and fender washer to attach firewall insulation.

This is why easy projects take 10 years.

Only option to use the rubber grommets is by drilling out holes so they fit.

 

[73azbronco]

OK, back to top. Vendor supplied rubberish plugs as seen in post 10 are not working, won't fit through through holes without breaking apart. Called manufacturer of insulation, he said they use a different type plug to attach this firewall insulation. He graciously sends me free of charge what he thinks would work, which are the plugs used on mustangs and 60's pickups.

I get them, way to small, slip right in and out.

OK, what have you all used to attach the firewall insulation?

Because, I'm down to thinking chrome bolts going from engine side to passenger side, fender washer of right size, rubber grommet under washer to seal engine side, and fender washer and nut inside to hold insulator up.

About 8 bucks a hole and there are about 8 holes. WTH.