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Fitech timing control guys

68stang73

Sr. Member
Joined
Nov 29, 2015
Messages
399
Those of you running the timing control feature, how is it working out for ya? I'm loving the system but having issues getting it just right. I have a slight hesitation at part throttle and if I floor it quickly it will fall on its face. I have it set at 10 degrees initial.stock 351w . I watched the handheld and at part throttle it timing leveled at around 22.5. So I set my dizzy at 22. But I did it at idol NOT at rpm range where fitech leveled out at. Maybe that answered my question????? The IAC is now at 20 and I can't get it any lower. What y'all do to set your up? I will say other than that it is very responsive .
 

blubberfet

Jr. Member
Joined
Jul 16, 2008
Messages
149
Can't help you with the timing but I can help with the hesitation and falling on its face.
For the part throttle watch the AF and if it goes lean for a second you will need to add to the Accel setting. Take a picture of the settings before adjusting anything. Try adding 10 (if it goes lean) send to the ecu and see if continues to hesitate then repeat if needed. For the falling on its face that will be the Fast Accel setting and adjust the same way.
 

charlesawhite

Jr. Member
Joined
Oct 14, 2010
Messages
70
I've got a 302 and switched to timing control a few months ago. I'm at 14 degrees and it runs better than it did with the mechanical and vacuum advance. I've been playing with the tuning features trying to get rid of some of the same issues. I wish there was a quick course on tuning these units other than the slow trial and error process I've been on.
 
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68stang73

Sr. Member
Joined
Nov 29, 2015
Messages
399
Good info to know, I'll check it out. I sure wish they explained this better. I think a good tutorial video is needed for sure.
 
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68stang73

Sr. Member
Joined
Nov 29, 2015
Messages
399
Can't help you with the timing but I can help with the hesitation and falling on its face.
For the part throttle watch the AF and if it goes lean for a second you will need to add to the Accel setting. Take a picture of the settings before adjusting anything. Try adding 10 (if it goes lean) send to the ecu and see if continues to hesitate then repeat if needed. For the falling on its face that will be the Fast Accel setting and adjust the same way.

Where at on the handheld is the accel and fast accel? I'm new to this efi lingo. I learn quick tho.
 

jimschulz

Full Member
Joined
Sep 6, 2013
Messages
215
Loc.
Eastern Washington
I have been having a few issues with FiTech controlling timing and just ordered an adjustable rotor. Working with FiTech and they say youll never get it to run right without phasing the rotor. Mine MSD rotor will be here next week and will hopefully resolve the issues I'm having. I did find the best explanation of why a phased rotor is needed with TBI FI:

“With an EFI system, the reluctor no longer triggers the ignition box to fire. Instead, the ECU interrupts this signal and delays it so that the ECU can vary the timing as programmed by the user. Obviously, to accomplish this, the ECU must see this signal before the intended time of the spark event. This is where the confusion often originates. A common “reference angle” used in aftermarket EFI systems is 50 degrees BTDC. This gives the ECU time to receive the signal at 50 degrees BTDC and command spark events in a normal range (10 – 40 degrees BTDC). When the reluctor passes the pickup in the distributor, it now is signaling the ECU that “The crank is at the reference angle (usually 50 degrees) so get ready to fire the coil when programmed to do so.” Without modifying the relationship between the reluctor and the rotor, the rotor alignment will always be too far advanced in relationship with its intended lug or terminal when the spark event occurs. This can lead to the previously mentioned weak spark or cylinder mis-fires.”
 

ChrisC74

Sr. Member
Joined
Dec 9, 2010
Messages
906
I have been having a few issues with FiTech controlling timing and just ordered an adjustable rotor. Working with FiTech and they say youll never get it to run right without phasing the rotor. Mine MSD rotor will be here next week and will hopefully resolve the issues I'm having. I did find the best explanation of why a phased rotor is needed with TBI FI:

“With an EFI system, the reluctor no longer triggers the ignition box to fire. Instead, the ECU interrupts this signal and delays it so that the ECU can vary the timing as programmed by the user. Obviously, to accomplish this, the ECU must see this signal before the intended time of the spark event. This is where the confusion often originates. A common “reference angle” used in aftermarket EFI systems is 50 degrees BTDC. This gives the ECU time to receive the signal at 50 degrees BTDC and command spark events in a normal range (10 – 40 degrees BTDC). When the reluctor passes the pickup in the distributor, it now is signaling the ECU that “The crank is at the reference angle (usually 50 degrees) so get ready to fire the coil when programmed to do so.” Without modifying the relationship between the reluctor and the rotor, the rotor alignment will always be too far advanced in relationship with its intended lug or terminal when the spark event occurs. This can lead to the previously mentioned weak spark or cylinder mis-fires.”
Jim, maybe we can compare notes when you get set up. I am using the fitech to control my timing and am running the locked out msd.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
 
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68stang73

Sr. Member
Joined
Nov 29, 2015
Messages
399
I also have a MSD locked out. It's a stock 351w and at 10 degrees after phasing it i the rotor seemed on top of the #1 so I didn't use an adjustable rotor. I ordered one they recommend but it came in as the big Chevy one. To me it seemed at 16-20 degrees it made more sense to go adjustable. But maybe not. I mean it starts up great and smooth throttle transition AFTER the initial hesitation. But stabbing the throttle it falls on its face. Which makes sense about the accel going lean etc. But I'm new to this game and willing to learn to help out every one also.
 

jimschulz

Full Member
Joined
Sep 6, 2013
Messages
215
Loc.
Eastern Washington
I am having similar issues, stumbles and poor initial response. I spoke with FiTech and once they found I didnt have a phased rotor he said its almost a must, and should be used. I could never figure why my timing light never matched what the handheld showed. I was always showing 18-20 degrees at idle and thought it should be around the 10 degrees I set the dizzy at. It makes sense now that if I phased the rotor 10 degrees, my idle timing on the handheld would be around the 10 degrees I set it at. Plus or munus the FiTech idle correction timing. I will just have to phase it and see if theres improvement. ill update when I get it installed.
 
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68stang73

Sr. Member
Joined
Nov 29, 2015
Messages
399
Ok see if this makes sense. Bryce told me to push the throttle and watch the handheld spark adv level out. Usually around 1100 rpm. I did and it seemed to level out at 22 degrees on the spark adv. And that the harmonic should match it. So if it doesn't then I should turn the harmonic to 22 degrees btc then make sure the reluctor wheel is center of the paddle then with the adj rotor you adjust it to dead center of #1 plug on cap. Because in theory that rotor is actually 22 degrees from the #1 instead of the 10 I set it at. So once done this way it should always match the handheld no matter what RPM range it's at. Is this correct? Clear as mud?
 
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68stang73

Sr. Member
Joined
Nov 29, 2015
Messages
399
On a side note engine power will be installing the Fitech on a new Mopar BB build next weekend.
 

jimschulz

Full Member
Joined
Sep 6, 2013
Messages
215
Loc.
Eastern Washington
Well after an ordering snafu with Amazon, wrong initial rotor, and work...I finally got the adjustable rotor in. MSD makes a small style rotor and the larger adapt-a-cap rotor. I needed the larger one. Once I figured out the FiTech documentation was wrong, I was able to get things dialed in. Once I got the timing to match the handheld, I reset the learn and drove it for about a half hour. I must say that the FiTech NEEDS an adjustable rotor! So far the idle has smoothed out nicely, the random misses are almost non existant, and the backfire on decel is almost gone. Feels like the power curve is where it should be now. Ill get some more miles on it this weekend and report if anything changes. I am going to try and tune the backfire on decel out a little more though.
 
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68stang73

Sr. Member
Joined
Nov 29, 2015
Messages
399
Good to hear. How did you dial the timing in? I think I'm right on but not 100% sure.
 
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