Fix or replace body?

[JB Fab]

I don't think your body guy understands how much time he will put into a "new body", take it from someone that bought one of the supposedly better ones....

 

[fvb100]

I don't think your body guy understands how much time he will put into a "new body", take it from someone that bought one of the supposedly better ones....

My research led to the same conclusion. But I think he will agree. For some (or most) of us this is all new territory I guess.

 

[Jamie Chriss]

Agree the new bodies still need allot of work! How are your door pillars?

 

[fvb100]

Agree the new bodies still need allot of work! How are your door pillars?

They seem good. I think the former owner said the body had been sitting in a barn like this (before blasting) since the mid 90's. All rusted parts are from before that.

 

[OX1]

I don't think your body guy understands how much time he will put into a "new body", take it from someone that bought one of the supposedly better ones....

Well that sucks, as that was my plan, "someday"..............

 

[bmc69]

That's in far better starting condition than all but maybe one of the 12 EB's I've owned or still own...

 

[unimogger]

As you are paying someone to fix yours, a new tub may certainly be cheaper in the long run. Especially if you sold that one. If you were able to DIY the repairs, then by all means it would be cost effective to save it.
If I was making my "shop rate" for the time I've spent on my tub, I could have bought a new tub, or a nicer bronco.. For me it's easy to justify a few hours every evening, but I can't justify the 14K for a new one.

 

[hunter1]

Tub

Your tub is in a lot better shape than the one I started with. I ended up using stock tail light post and support, cowl panel, windshield support and windshield frame. A small section of the upper trans tunnel was also salvaged. I will be able to use the hood and radiator core support as well after some minor repairs. every other piece will be brand new. The one I bought would have been a waste of time to try to salvage but it did have good running gear and a good dash panel.

 

[tabyers]

Absolute keeper. Put another person on your list of potential buyers if you are tossing this. The only reason I’m going with a full replacement is door posts. If your upper rear quarters and your door posts are good, there is no reason to look elsewhere.

 

[fvb100]

Just had a good talk with my builder and we will fix this tub. Probably replace the whole front floor pan area. Will let you know how it goes.

 

[ngsd]

The one piece floor pan is the way to go. I know!

 

[fvb100]

This is a fairly classic "build vs buy" scenario. Except in your case, it sounds more like a "buy vs buy."



If you are paying a "builder" to do your metal work, then you are looking at $75-$100 shop rate. I just replaced the floors on my 70 Bronco. I estimate that I have 5 days in the floor (cut out the old, dress the spot welds, fit the new, drill holes, plug weld, grind, dress the backside, seam seal, prep, and prime.) So if I were paying a shop...that's $4K. If I paid a shop that charged me $20 per hour for a laborer to do "grunt work" and $100 per hour for skilled work...then you are talking about $2K for the floors.



The only way that restoration can be cost effective is if you have access to cheap labor. Most of the projects I work on earn me about 10 cents per hour...



I'm sending you a PM.

5 days and how many hours is that?


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[fvb100]

We started work on the body.

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[taipeichris]

Congrats!

Keep it, there's something really nice about original sheet metal. FYI, make sure you investigate the channel in the cowl. Mine rotted out, the only place on the entire body and I found a "how to" article on replacing it with a 2x4 metal tube with out replacing anything else.

Good luck and post progress photos!

 

[fvb100]

Congrats!

Keep it, there's something really nice about original sheet metal. FYI, make sure you investigate the channel in the cowl. Mine rotted out, the only place on the entire body and I found a "how to" article on replacing it with a 2x4 metal tube with out replacing anything else.

Good luck and post progress photos!

Great! Thanks for sharing your experience.


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[fvb100]

Congrats!

Keep it, there's something really nice about original sheet metal. FYI, make sure you investigate the channel in the cowl. Mine rotted out, the only place on the entire body and I found a "how to" article on replacing it with a 2x4 metal tube with out replacing anything else.

Good luck and post progress photos!

Where did you find the article?


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[Cxmaron]

I am considering replacing the body of my 69 Bronco with a new one. My builder thinks he might be working on it well past what an new body would cost.

It has been media blasted.

What needs to be done and more:

Floor pans (driver side has a bad fix)
Front inner fender skirts
Both rocker panels
Front wheel wells
Rear fenders
Lots of holes

What do you guys think?

That thing isn’t far off of being a brand new body…. You’ve got a trash body man if he thinks that thing is too far gone, my 72 looks like it was parked at the bottom of the ocean and I’m still gonna try to repair it with zero prior body work experience

 

[TAC71]

I just did a complete body replacement for a friend.
The new bodies are not just a bolt it on a go. They require a TON of work to fix the terrible assembly.
I would definitely keep the original sheet metal and fix it.

 

[SeaVee]

I’ll be knocking on 50k once this thing gets back on the frame. 2 year frame off by a reputable shop. Lead time on a DC body was 3 years when we decided to go down this road. Very scary road. Lots of unexpected turns. Just my experience

 

[m_m70]

I’ll be knocking on 50k once this thing gets back on the frame. 2 year frame off by a reputable shop

Just for the body??