floor pan suggestions

[j.r.nice]

J.R.Nice,

Can you post any pictures of the flanged sheet metal, especially where the top section is flat? The floor pan replacement should look stock with this method correct?

Thanks for your help

my work is already painted/undercoated over. The Falcon is currently stored off-premise for the winter. I'll see if I can make a piece.

It doesnt look like a butt weld. If you flange the original floor from up top and lay the replacement patch in the flanged area then it will appear stock and flat from up top (inside) The underside looks different than stock, but you will probably be undercoating it anyway.

I'll try to do an exemplar tonight

 

[behemoth]

Here is the latest, I ordered the new parts and they are here side by side.

I still like the wildhorses floors over the JBG floors but neither fits my truck any better than the other.

The first pick is the floors side by side, the second is the panel from JBG, lots of work to do there.

The third and fourth photos are the fit at the corners in the front. Then you have the large hole. The last one is the floors prepped for por 15.

I hope to have them all in tomorrow, but we will see.

 

[fbronco86]

I plan on doing mine as well. Has anyone had any luck with this guy from ebay? He says his are 18g steel. I like the fact that the pass side is a full replacement. Check it out.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/FRON...004QQitemZ140113194260QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

 

[j.r.nice]

J.R.Nice,

Can you post any pictures of the flanged sheet metal, especially where the top section is flat? The floor pan replacement should look stock with this method correct?

Thanks for your help

I completely forgot about my promise, sorry, Ed74 do you still need a pic??

J R

 

[deltarat]

I have one of those tools and the punch part is nice, the flanger part almost gets it done but with the 16g steel it needs some help. It does make the floors and other things a whole lot easier to weld.

What do you mean it needs a little help on 16ga? Can you do 16ga?

 

[behemoth]

I have not used the panels from ebay. I ended up using two of the drivers floors from wild horses to get them to fit right. I also had a custom one built to fit my truck that will go in before the tub is sprayed with linex. The tool that I have when I use it on 16 g does not quite flange it deep enough to get the 16g to lay flat. I will take a photo of what I am seeing with mine tomorrow. It could be that mine is not rated at 16g and I should not even expect it to.

Those ebay panels look a whole lot like the jbg parts.

 

[Ed74]

No problem J.R. No hurry. Whenever you have time would be terrific. I am planning on replacing my floor pans some time this summer. But, thanks for your consideration.

Ed

 

[BoltBuster]

How far did you lap over???

 

[behemoth]

here are the shots of the flange that the tool mentioned above makes. This was in 16g steel, the holes are also made with it.

 

[deltarat]

That would still be better than a butt weld. Do they make one for 16ga?

 

[behemoth]

In the photo the piece that was flanged was 16g the other piece was 18g. I looked at the flange tool that I have and it is rated at 14g steel. There would be a bigger seam and you would have to run close to the max psi with my cheap one.

 

[BoltBuster]

Did you post a picture of your flange tool?? or can you Thanks

 

[behemoth]

It looks just like the one in the picture posted by j.r.nice in #18.

 

[j.r.nice]

They do make them with interchangable heads to accomodate a number of different gauges. Looks like the only thing I do differently is punching the holes in the flat piece. The only suggestion I would make is to make sure your welds are from above (inside the vehicle) so that 1) youre not welding up and 2) the weld holes arent exposed to the elements.

 

[behemoth]

these were just pieces of scrap that I was playing with. I do just as you stated punch holes in the flat piece to weld from above. I do not know about different heads, mine just states 14g on it.

 

[fwilder]

Hey all.

I have driver side to replace and am doing my homework. This is a good thread, but I'm looking for more info on seam sealer, paint, etc. I've got a Tom's stock replacement panel and haven't started fitting and stuff, but plan to put the panel in, mark, take out the old one, lay this one down on top, lap weld all the way around the top side (slowly), and plug weld along the supports. I'm not super clear on what I'm doing with the body mount hole, but I figure that will come more clear when I look at it. Any suggestions there are welcome.

Now with all that done, what are my next steps? How do I finish the bottom side. Frame on by the way. How do I deal with those open laps and dirt and crud. I've never dealt with this. After all is done I'm spraying Herculiner in the tub.

Thanks in advance.
Fred

 

[deltarat]

I bought a flange and punch from Harbor Freight and anybody that does sheet metal work, it is a must. After using it, I would buy it for the punch alone. Saves tons of time. Even if you need a bigger hole, punch and then drill bigger.