Floor panels replacement advice

[El Jefe]

I have a 74 that has patched floor panels. That and the passenger's rocker panel are really what needs replacing. I have NO major welding experience but am buying a MIG welder to tackle this project. I need some advice on panels replacement -sources/make your own- and welding them into place!! anyone?

 

[Blue71]

I started looking at prices and I decided to get someone locally to make mine. Also, my floors were eaten out a bit larger then the pans that everyone carried. I measured out everything (I drew both pans on paper)and gave myself a little extra to weld to. I had a mechanical co. locally to get me the sheet of metal and bend them. I used 16 guage metal which was pretty tuff stuff. I placed them in the floor area and cut and tweeked a tiny bit till I had them perfect. I just started welding myself , so if you have a MIG you can do it. Tacked them in and I was ready to go. Cost for all was 1 hr time and $35.00. If you want them to look factory/stock, then disregard the above junk and get some good ones from on of the Bronco houses. If you need a pic of the bent pan let me know.<br><br>Hope that helps.<br><br>Blue71

 

[rusty]

I just got done with mine. I made my own. They aint pretty but they are better than rust and really cheap. Just make sure you remove all the paint where you are welding and dont just start welding continuously around. tack it down really good then finish weld it. good luck and practice first!

 

[Bronconut]

Still in the process of doing mine. But I have finished the drivers side. After considering the cheap way out which I have done on other Broncos.. I ordered the grooved ones from JBG. And I must say after working with Bronco rust for 15 years, I was totally impressed with the quality/fit of their pans. Once done your hard pressed to tell if they are stock or replacement. So if you want original look, I suggest these pans. Sorry so long, but I was stoked when it turned out so good.

 

[jasondemitri]

im in the process of doing mine right now. my floors luckily are rotted right where the new floor pans cover. i bought mine from auto krafters for around 140 bucks. from what i can see, i am really impressed with the fit and craftsmanship. i got the ones with the ribs. i didnt want to get a couple years down the road and say "damn i wish i would have gotten the ribbed ones". plus im pondering the idea of line x.....i have no experience with mig welding, but i feel confident i can tackle it. im getting the welder in 2 weeks. im really taking my time with this project so it turns out right and i wont have to do it again 10 years from now. hopefully it works.

 

[71moore]

Tom's bronco parts, Jeffs Bronco Graveyard<br>tac around corners, then weld a little at a time<br>I used very slow wire speed and coolest temprature<br>circular motion with welder while welding worked best<br>for me (I have verry little welding exp.) DON'T HOLD THE TIP TOO CLOSE TO THE PAN, ELSE YOU BURN THE TIP UP!<br>GOOD LUCK.

 

[swa0330]

For those that did the welding, did you overlap the pan to existing metal or do a gap weld? It seems that a gap weld is the only real feasible way to do this.

 

[2badrotties]

The ribbed ones are best. Don't forget to weld them to the floor support that runs under the pan. Drill some holes ( 1/4 inch ) a couple inches apart and make sure you grind or sandblast what you are welding to. Use some seam sealer around all your edges when done , prime or paint, and undercoat. Should last a good long time. If you cant figure out where to drill the holes set the pan in place and mark everything from the bottom , take the pan back out and drill just inside the lines. Hope I have helped.

 

[swa0330]

I wanted to know, when you weld the sides of the pan to the original bronco metal, do I use a gap between the metal, or do I overlap the pieces.

 

[jasondemitri]

overlap would be the best way i think. im going to weld them from the top, then weld them from the bottom. should be interesting welding upside down, but hey im in for the excitement.

 

[grant_71]

I have been welding sheetmetal for some time now and if possible use a gap weld, but if it is not possible then you can lap weld, i am just about to start my floors as well, to get rid of the aluminum flashing that has been hel in place by liquid nails for 15+ years. Maybe over christmas break.....

 

[El Jefe]

[quote author=grant_71 link=board=5;threadid=11178;start=0#82820 date=1037291178]<br>I have been welding sheetmetal for some time now and if possible use a gap weld, but if it is not possible then you can lap weld, i am just about to start my floors as well, to get rid of the aluminum flashing that has been hel in place by liquid nails for 15+ years. Maybe over christmas break.....<br>[/quote]<br><br>What type of MIG welder do you recommend for a novice to do this with? (Where in MI are you? I live in Dearborn, could use your welding advice!)

 

[2badrotties]

Heres some advice. Untill you do a LOT of practice welding , go with the overlap method. Just a small overlap is fine and I don't think you want to practice filling holes on your own truck.

 

[ken75ranger]

You might want to get a flanger. There are air ones and manual like this

<br>They have them at Eastwood.

 

[Rustytruck]

If you are inexperienced at welding overlap the pannels. Drill out the old spot welds with a large Diameter drill bit so you cut through just one layer and remove the junk. put in your new pannel and throw in a couple of small pop rivets to hold in place to check the fit and snug up everything if it fits good then remove the pannel and drill some 3/16 holes about an inch apart around the perimiter of the top pannel or flange then pop rivet the pannel back in and use your mig to weld up the holes and they will look a whole lot like the factory spot welds. Then drill out the small pop rivets you put in and weld up those holes. Take some POR and thin it with Xylene thinner to water like consistancy and brush it into the seams from both sides in several coats to wick into the seam. then use some seam sealer on both sides of the pannel and finish to your desire.

 

[Tuck]

[quote author=2badrotties link=board=5;threadid=11178;start=0#82261 date=1037141998]<br>The ribbed ones are best. <br>[/quote]<br><br>I've heard that female EB owners like the ribbed ones better too.

 

[74bronc]

Clecos work great for automotive sheet metal, just like the aviation industry. My dad is building an airplane, so we have thousands of these things lying around. Fit the pan, Cleco it in place, make adjustments as necessary and then plug weld the holes, and they will look and work like the factory spot welds. There really is no need to run a bead all the way around the perimeter of the pan. Chances are it will look like crap and it is unnecessary.<br><br>I am going to try it with a TIG welder. I know MIG is ideal and fastest, but all we have right now is a nice TIG.

 

[moabers]

Bronco Ed, I think you were asking what type of welder to use, I don't have much experience, but from that and some asking around, I just bought a little Lincoln welder.They have them at Lowe's and Home Depot, the one from Home Depot came with a cart (Weldpak 3200HD) for $440. I have used the Hobart Handler 135 and I hated it. It had terrible feed control, really unsteady, so the wire was constantly surging. From all that I have heard, try to stick to a Lincoln or a Miller. Don't take this as gospel, but it should be a start.<br>Good Luck!!

 

[jasondemitri]

hey moabers, how do you like the hd3200? thats the on im looking at getting in 2 weeks. all i really want to do is sheetmetal nothing to thick. is it as easy as it looks? did it come with the gas bottle? if not how much did that run you? sorry for all the ????'s, but i dont know to many welders up here. ok, i dont know any lol. <br>thanks<br>jason

 

[moabers]

Jason, I haven't used it yet... I only bought it 2 weeks ago, but a couple friends have them and really like them. It comes with the MIG hoses and regulator, but you have to get a bottle from a gas company (ie. Praxair). The only quote I have so far is ~$150 for the bottle on a 10year lease, and between $30-60 for each gas fill, depending on which gas you want. As for it's use for body work, that is pretty much what it is ideal for. It will weld 5/16" with flux core wire, and 12 gauge (.105") with the MIG. The 'Weldpak 135' from Lowe's is pretty much identical, same specs, minus the cart (which is actually a really handy stout little cart with a bottle holder on it). They are different part numbers I think to eliminate price matching (this is all speculation)