Front Dana 60 HiPinion used in rear w/reverse cut gears?

[nvrstuk]

Why not? Tell me what my foggy brain hasn't figured out yet...

Take a hi pinion front D60, replace the tubes, weld in flanges, add a 4 link... seems easy...

Why won't this work?

 

[Mountain Ram]

You can search some of the hardcore offroad websites (Pirate4x4) and you will see all sorts of opinions. Will it work- yes. How long will depend on what you do with the rig. You will be driving on the coast side of the gear and that is not where the strength of the gear design is.

Some of the big name axle companies have built these with questionable results... Keep the beating to a minimum, run an auto trans, keep the HP and tire size moderate and you will likely be fine.

 

[sykanr0ng]

Would not really gain strength over a 9 inch, and there are some very strong high pinion 9 inch made these days (though high dollar too)

The D60 gears get weaker as the ratio numbers go up, the 9 inch gears get stronger as the numbers go up, hypoid distance is why - as the numbers go up in a 9 inch so does the tooth engagement.

http://performanceunlimited.com/illustrations/gears.html

The only 'advantage' the D60 has is the narrower thinner gears do leave more room for a locker.
The disadvantage?
The D60 has narrower thinner gears.

 

[Mountain Ram]

The factory 9" housing is somewhat more prone to damage than the D60... I have seen pinion gears ripped out of a number of Ford 9s... But I have broken axles shafts and R&Ps in both kinds of axle.

I think the big gain with the HP60 center section in the rear is driveshaft angle. With tall lift height or long trans/t-case combos, this could be critical.

 

[sykanr0ng]

Take a hi pinion front D60, replace the tubes, weld in flanges, add a 4 link... seems easy...

The factory 9" housing is somewhat more prone to damage than the D60... I have seen pinion gears ripped out of a number of Ford 9s... But I have broken axles shafts and R&Ps in both kinds of axle.

I think the big gain with the HP60 center section in the rear is driveshaft angle. With tall lift height or long trans/t-case combos, this could be critical.

What's factory about that?

A reinforced/armored 9 inch housing or an aftermarket one would be a more reasonable comparison.
Otherwise it's apples to oranges.

 

[nvrstuk]

Thanks MtnRam...

I'm not talking factory 9 inch rear, I'm talking high pinion only. I'm currently running a TruHi9 and I'm going to a four link. The TruHi9 has served me well but I wouldn't mind a heavier walled tube on the 9" rear end housing since I've bent several housings (have never jumped my Bronco) and I can get that with a Dana 60.

I was curious as to how much weaker running on the coast side of the gears is...hmmm. Since I'm already twisting parts up I guess that's not an option... I either need to shorten the drivetrain a little or stretch out the wheelbase...

My stroker is pretty healthy...

Thanks

 

[KyleQ]

Find yourself a D70HD and a BJ D60 - cut the 4" .50 wall D70 tubes to your wanted offset. Cut the 3.5" .050 wall D60 tubes, slide into the D70 tubes and BAM - steer D60/70. Set whatever caster you want and you are set -

 

[Broncobowsher]

The high pinion dictates the reverse bevel cut gears anyway, they go together.

So what can you expect if you do this? It will work, at least at trail speeds. Easy enough. But if you start cruising the highway some odd things can happen. Since the high pinion is designed to be a front axle you will be driving the coast side of the teeth. I can envision some oiling issues of keeping the pinion bearings lubed. Highway driving places different loads on the bearings compared to trail riding. Trail is low speed, higher stress where highway is high speed and moderate stress. The pinion is above the oil level. Lube is pumped by the ring gear flinging it around. Most axle housing have a channel on the top of the case that lines up with the ring gear to feed oil into the pinion bearings. The pinion is going to be blocking that oil flow I am pretty sure. At least something to look into. At trail speeds you don't have to concern yourself so much with oil flowing to keep bearings alive, just keep parts wet so they don't gall.

 

[naneumranch]

Yo my little jeepster buddy but also trusty worthy assisted on the bronco project says use your true high nine with a ruff stuff or Spyder trax housing .
Brian


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[nvrstuk]

...appreciate the input guys...

My TruHi9 oils pretty well. I inspect it more than I should I guess (I don't race so it's not pulled down that often), but no tell-tale signs of issues even with hours of continuous street driving at 60+mph...

Better stick with the Hi9 I guess... or shorten my drivetrain or lengthen the wheelbase... hmmm

 

[Yeller]

I would get a 3-1/2" tubed fabricated housing and not worry, all of you're existing parts can be reused and the true hi9 is superior to a hi pinion 60 in the rear and you'll spend about as much as a locker for the 60

 

[nvrstuk]

I think you're right on Yeller...

That's what I've been thinking since yesterday when I realized a front Hipinion D60 in the rear would be on the coast side of the gears...

I did put all my tickets into the bucket to win the RuffStuff 9" housing at the Bronco Roundup last week but you all know the result already...

 

[Yeller]

We ran an untrussed trail gear housing in the ultra 4 without any issues. According to Sandy Cone a truss isn't needed under 750hp with a properly designed 4 link with those housings