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Front Springs, Do these Look Right?

broncosam

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Feb 8, 2005
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Hey Guys, I got my old headers off and got the the T-Rex arms on and torqued correctly. Just finished up putting the front coils in. I took a few pics of the front coils installed, I would like some opinions on if they look right or not. when I tore everything apart, I made sure the parts ( spring cups ) were labeled to go back on the correct side, right or left, driver or passenger. Springs are 3.5 inch coils. Maybe it's me but something does not look right. In the pictures I started raising the jack to put pressure on the springs but most of the weight is still on the jack stands.
As you can see in the pictures I have no shocks, trac bar, or steering linkage hooked up yet. Didn't think that would make a difference in the way the coils look. It's been quite a few years since this old man has done any of this and I sure do appreciate the help and advice I've been given in the past.
 

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mrdrnac

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Feb 6, 2010
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I'd hook up your track bar first, and if your track bar is adjustable center the axle with the weight on the coils, Then see what it looks like.
 
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broncosam

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I'll try that, didn't know if that would make a difference or not. Yes my trac bar is adjustable, first time using one on a lifted vehicle always counted on a drop bracket to keep things centered up.
 

Okie69

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Nov 28, 2011
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794
It looks like you’re using the front set of holes to mount the lower spring retainer. I just installed my T-Rex arms and I used the more rearward mounting position. 3A81D2B6-DCC4-46F0-9A54-742096AAB627.jpeg
 

DirtDonk

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Nov 3, 2003
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Yes it makes a difference.
All coil springs have the potential to bow in one direction or ten. With Ford radius arm suspensions, you get to play with most of those options!
The longer the spring, the more likely to bow. It might also be a factor between linear rate and variable rate coils. With two or more winding rates, the tendency to bow might be reduced or enhanced. Never thought about it much, or tested that theory. But maybe others here have?

You can't tell a thing though, until the springs are at ride height first of all. That means letting the full weight of the suspension on them, assuming all the weight that's going to be on the vehicle is on the vehicle. Engine and such, which looks to be the case here.
Then you must make sure that the axle (or the spring mounting cups) are centered in the frame beneath the spring mounting towers. Any offset in either direction will let the coils bow out.
Next big factor is the mounting surface that the lower cups sit on. If the new arms take this into account exactly for a 3.5" lift, that reduces the bow effect. If they're set up more at a factory angle, or optimized for a lift that's different from a 3.5, then you can still have bow.
The longer the spring, the tighter the coils and the smaller the wire, and I think the more closely the coils are wound, the more likely they are to react to input by bowing out. Tall 4wd truck springs being the most prone to this. Short passenger car springs that are practically captured for much of their length might still bow, but you'll hardly ever notice it without looking very closely. Coil-over shocks retain the springs in a very straight aspect, so you don't normally get bow on those. They are usually linear rate as well, with variable rates handled by multiple separate springs instead of combining the features into a single coil spring. Exceptions being factory strut equipped vehicles with captured and often variable rate coils. Maybe they make them with the sometimes obvious beehive shape to reduce this? Also never thought about that, but might be "a thing' when it comes to designing springs and suspensions.
But those are mostly short anyway, with widely spaced coils, so perhaps not as much change to bow.

Add to that any change of angle of the cups or inconsistency in the towers, and these effects would certainly be enhanced.
All of this is at ride height. If you have perfectly aligned springs with no notable bowing, that is likely to change from moment to moment as the suspension cycles up and down during normal driving and flexing especially off road.
Next time you come across pictures of ramp contests, look at the coils of a fully flexed out suspension and you're very likely going to see extreme cases of bowed springs.

Paul
 
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broncosam

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Okie69, thanks for suggestion you offered. I read in the instructions that came with the T-Rex arms about that rear hole in the arms and the particular bolt that was provided for that. But I didn't put 2 and 2 together to figure out that is how it should be assembled. I had to end up modifying my spring cups but in the end it worked fine and looks more like it should. Thanks again I appreciate all the help. You wouldn't think that positioning the spring towards the rear an inch or so would make that much of a difference, but I found out the hard way it does.
 
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