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anyone ever installed full size truck axles in your bronco. i have seen pics, looks cool. any advise on this or how to. if you have pics/i love pics.
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3 Arm Wiper Setup
Fix Motor Mount
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Throttle Body 65mm
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Ford 6R80 6 spd
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Fix Motor Mount
Roll Cage Braces
Throttle Body 65mm
Wheel Alignment
Heat Riser Replacement
Vent Window Repair
Center Console Mount
Straighten Bumper
Ford 6R80 6 spd
More Tech...
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68beast
Full Member
rear is cake, just reweld the perches to the right width and bolt 'em on. With the front '76 and '77 are good years because the "c" mounts are welded on and are not cast on as part of the tube as with '78 and '79. You can cut a reweld these also, and if you destroy the mounts while you cut the off, you can get new ones from James Duff. With the 76-77 they come with the inverted y type steering, so what I did was to make a completely new setup using cheby tre's, easy and strong. One thing to consider is that the trac bar to draglink angles will be changed so you might need to go back to the stock pitman arm, if you have a drop arm allready. Good luck and post pics when ur done 
bent70
Jr. Member
Or for the front you can do a link setup, such as a 3-link(easier) or 4-link.
77' supercab f-150 will have leaf mounts, flattops and 5-lug if you don't want to go big.
77' supercab f-150 will have leaf mounts, flattops and 5-lug if you don't want to go big.
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- Jan 19, 2004
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more on the full width swap
The full width swap has been popular here in the southeast since the mid 90's. First with the '78/9 full width D44s and 9's then with the '78/9 D60's and rear 60/14bolt for some. Most from back in the day just simply maintained the Cmounts/wedges on the full width D44 and used radius arms to the outside of the framerails instead of under in factory location. This accounted for the "wider cmounts/wedges" of the full width D44s. A couple of things that will help you, cut off the factory cmounts on the full width and get the "aftermarket" ones fromt duffs-that will allow you better control of your caster and radius arm placement. My rig has the duffs extended arms on with dual shocks and coils. Pretty much old school stuff but it works well. As was mentioned-links work well and you are not confined as much with the cmount/wedge issues. Lastly space out your coil mounts at least 1.5" off the frame when you do the full width axle swap to avoid the interesting "bow look" of coil springs on full width. HTH,
KB
NC
ebsss
The full width swap has been popular here in the southeast since the mid 90's. First with the '78/9 full width D44s and 9's then with the '78/9 D60's and rear 60/14bolt for some. Most from back in the day just simply maintained the Cmounts/wedges on the full width D44 and used radius arms to the outside of the framerails instead of under in factory location. This accounted for the "wider cmounts/wedges" of the full width D44s. A couple of things that will help you, cut off the factory cmounts on the full width and get the "aftermarket" ones fromt duffs-that will allow you better control of your caster and radius arm placement. My rig has the duffs extended arms on with dual shocks and coils. Pretty much old school stuff but it works well. As was mentioned-links work well and you are not confined as much with the cmount/wedge issues. Lastly space out your coil mounts at least 1.5" off the frame when you do the full width axle swap to avoid the interesting "bow look" of coil springs on full width. HTH,
KB
NC
ebsss
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