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full width axles

basher13

New Member
Joined
Dec 2, 2007
Messages
38
Loc.
East of Renton
Decided to pull the trigger and put 1976 F-150 axles under my rig, I'm a new member but have been lurking for some time. Just wanted to run through my plan and see what ya'll think.
As it sits now I have Cage arms with long travel hoops (also Cage) 3.5'' lift with Deaver springs front and rear. 35" tires but I'm trimmed for 37"s, healthy 302 auto blah blah blah.
The plan for this winter is to install the new axles with 4.56 gears, and atleast one locker.This is what I'm wondering;
As I understand it, on the front axle I can leave the wedges where they are with the Cage arms and move my lower spring cups, yea or nea?
Welding on an axle housing, as far as new spring pads and shock mounts anything to be aware of? I don't need to jig the axle do I? I just don't want to warp anything. I'm using a Millermatic 175.
I think I will only have enough $ for one locker, which end makes more sense?
That's it for now, I appreciate all the knowledge on this site.
Thanks
 

Tito

CB Fire Starter
Joined
Jan 29, 2006
Messages
10,781
Loc.
Bakersfield, CA
What is your usage? If it is not much hiway, throw a spool in the rear and a selectable in the front. I left my C wedges where they were and it was fine but I didnt have an option. I'd move them in a little to give some more turning radius. It doesnt look to hard to do if you are going to be doing all that stuff as it is. As far as the rear I cut the pads off and then mounted it up to the new springs, checked my angles and all a few times then tacked new ones on. You can see what all I did if you click in my signature on the 70 build, very similar to what you are doing.
 
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basher13

basher13

New Member
Joined
Dec 2, 2007
Messages
38
Loc.
East of Renton
I have read your thread over and over, awesome build. Your the one pushing me to go full width, weather you know it or not your build influenced many people.
I would like to be able to drive to SOB from Seattle, any farther and I will most likely be towing it. Daily driver no, but not a dedicated trail rig either.
I hadn't thought about the turning radius, everything else on yours turn out the way you wanted?
 

Tito

CB Fire Starter
Joined
Jan 29, 2006
Messages
10,781
Loc.
Bakersfield, CA
Yeah happy with everything except the steering so far, dealing with the Death Wobble at 50MPH. I am going to replace my drag link and make it a heim at the pitman arm instead of a chevy tie rod and see if that helps. I drive mine on the street plenty but not on the hiway and our snow trip this weekend was a lot of hiway and I've got a knot in my shoulder from a bit too much white knuckle driving :-X :-X :eek: . I'll get it fixed but for now its dealing with the blown detroit in the front! If you didnt read about it, I broke an outer alloy and apparently the vibe destroyed the detroit, sucks for only having 4 runs. I'd suggest an ARB or OX if you can, the extra $200 will be worth the headache of not dealing with what I did. As far as the rear I have been fine with the spool, it wears the tires a lot more and is interesting on ice but otherwise I dont mind it. Eventually I would like a selectable back there also but thats a lot of money that I dont have to plunk down right now. If you have any questions, I'd be happy to help with good/bad, etc.
 

Apogee

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Nov 26, 2005
Messages
6,055
You've got the '76 axles and the welder, so you may as well move your C-wedges in rather than moving the coil buckets. Those with the 78-79 HP D44's don't really have the option, but it'll put the arms in a couple of inches and keep your tires out of the arms. Of course, it may not be an issue depending on your wheel backspacing and tire width.

As for welding on the housing, it shouldn't be an issue so long as you take it slowly. It's a pretty thick tube and you shouldn't be putting that much heat into it.

I've got my '76 axles sitting in the driveway (neighbors must love it) just waiting for the time and garage space to make it happen.

A locker in the rear will get you more for your money. Selectables are sweet if they're in the budget, otherwise it's pretty tough to beat a Detroit so long as you're not breaking axles. Detroits up front don't seem to do so well when stuff breaks.
 
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basher13

basher13

New Member
Joined
Dec 2, 2007
Messages
38
Loc.
East of Renton
Thanks for the replies, sounds like I need to look into relocating my wedges. I assume new wedges are sold through one of the parts houses, I've never looked. What about the new brackets that Cage sells for converting any rig to a straight axle with there longarms. Same arms but the brackets that mount to the axle don't use C bushings.

One other thing I have been wondering, is could I use the Cage arms in the rear if I wanted to go to coils/coilovers? Has this been covered some place?
Just a thought...

Tito, I can go back and look at your thread but what headers are you running and is your exhaust 2 into 1.
Thanks again
 

Apogee

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Nov 26, 2005
Messages
6,055
The c-wedges on your '76 axle can be cut off and reused, just grind out the welds on the top and bottom and knock them off. While the universal weld-on mounts offered by CAGE would allow you to eliminate the c-bushings, it's added expense and then limited adjustability with respect to the caster.

As for the rear, you'd be money ahead to just 4-link it rather than doing arms front and rear, but I've seen a few done that way. Some seemed to work well...others not so much.
 

Tito

CB Fire Starter
Joined
Jan 29, 2006
Messages
10,781
Loc.
Bakersfield, CA
Thanks for the replies, sounds like I need to look into relocating my wedges. I assume new wedges are sold through one of the parts houses, I've never looked. What about the new brackets that Cage sells for converting any rig to a straight axle with there longarms. Same arms but the brackets that mount to the axle don't use C bushings.

One other thing I have been wondering, is could I use the Cage arms in the rear if I wanted to go to coils/coilovers? Has this been covered some place?
Just a thought...

Tito, I can go back and look at your thread but what headers are you running and is your exhaust 2 into 1.
Thanks again


I am running stock manifolds and its dual flows (super loud when I am on it).
I saw one guy at SOB year before last, I think he was in BD 2 issues ago with the red 3/4 cab, he ran Duff arms and coils front and rear, was slick looking but as Apogee said you could 4 link it for cheaper and get some real good adjustability and performance I would think.
 
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basher13

basher13

New Member
Joined
Dec 2, 2007
Messages
38
Loc.
East of Renton
Thanks for all the info, the coil rear is in the "just wondering" stage, I've been looking into D90 & LandCruiser rear set ups. My old 93 LC flexed pretty damn good and rode real nice, I know the D90 guys get good performance with factory designed stuff as well.
Need to focus on the full width this winter and maybe the Cummins 4BT next winter.
 
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