Full width axles

[Highrollerz23]

Hello all. I'm new to this forum so go easy on me here. Iv been online for 2 says looking up articles on the topic. Everywhere I turn, I'm finding " do your research" and "there's tons of write-ups, just look it up" no one seems to answer any questions. Maybe I'm missing it but I'm not seeing much.

My questions involve running a dana60 from a 2001 f350. I'm torn on full length vs. cutting it down. The short side of the axle is very short. I'd like to stay full width but the differential ends up under the frame. I've read that 3.5" suspension lift is enough to clear it. Does that mean it will fit but have no up travel? I've also read that 5.5" lift is the ticket.

If cutting down is the way to go, if read that 4", 5", and 6" is the right amount to take off. I seen the guy who put 6" was too much and puts the differential in to the oil pan.

Does anyone have any first hand experience doing this and did the work themselves?

Things to consider, I'm going to be running a 5.8l w/automatic c6. I know the suspension setup matters but im going to let the axle length determine that. And the rear is a sterling 10.5. It will be a 50/50 road/trail on 37" tires. Trail usage is mild to medium rocky terrain.

Thanks for having me. Cheers!

 

[Madgyver]

First off..
Welcome to this wonderful site.
I recently got 2 Dana60 front axles in a week. An 04 and a 92. 04 is a unit bearing. I will use the 92 d60 since its already 8x6.5 bolt pattern and I have the matching Sterling. Going the stay full length and just get the right backspacing on wheels. I'll do whatever I can to keep bronco as low as possible with these axles if involves cutting the frame for clearance, so be it. I expect it with a stretch, front crossmember, rear crossmember will need cutting. Hopefully it doesn't involve the oilpan. If it does, I'll figure it out.

 

[Qumanchew]

I know it isn't Apple's to Apple's, but I have a full width 44 under a 66. 3" of lift and I have plenty of up travel. If you want more details, pics etc let me know. Also I'm local to you, up in Kutztown. If you ever want to stop by and check it out let me know.

 

[Highrollerz23]

I know it isn't Apple's to Apple's, but I have a full width 44 under a 66. 3" of lift and I have plenty of up travel. If you want more details, pics etc let me know. Also I'm local to you, up in Kutztown. If you ever want to stop by and check it out let me know.

It's cool to find locals working on similar projects!
Can you snap a picture of where the front diff is in relation to the frame rail. Do you know what the end measurement is on your 44?

 

[Madgyver]

It's cool to find locals working on similar projects!
Can you snap a picture of where the front diff is in relation to the frame rail. Do you know what the end measurement is on your 44?

This one is in Hawaii. Not a D60 but a full width HP Dana44.
More pics on my sig below. if you can access them.

 

[68ford]

Not sure about d60 but full width hp44 can have more up travel than stock d44 because the diff closer to the frame. Diff hits engine tower first and long before oil pan. If the short side is shorter and diff is outboard more, that may be why it hits the frame first.
My hp44 compresses several inches past the original bumpstops.

 

[nvrstuk]

https://classicbroncos.com/forums/showthread.php?t=278607

Kinda long but every step needed to narrow a KP D60 to fit for 6" of uptravel with only 2.5" lift.

Figure out what width WMS you want. That's the key to not narrowing tubes or narrowing it so wheels don't stick out so far. Lot's of options...

 

[Qumanchew]

Here's some pics of mine with the 44. I'm pretty sure the 60s short side is shorter.

 

[Highrollerz23]

Yes looks like you have plenty of room. the set up i have has the leaf perch literally butted up o the diff. then there's about a inch of bare tube, if that, then the flange for the knuckle. the perch itself actually overlaps the edge of the diff housing with an offset bracket. cutting that all out may give me just enough to do radius arms, but my diff is still directly under the frame. now i haven't had time to roll it under the frame yet so im not even sure that my bare tube will line up where i need it to be. im actually considering getting rid of this one for a d44 to build... otherwise, i need to have my diff shifted to the passenger side 3-4ish inches.

 

[KyleQ]

You get more up travel than you would expect due to the axle being wider, pivoting better under the truck and allowing quite a bit of travel.

What are your goals? Nobody puts full width one tons under a truck for street duty.... If you are going to stick with a 37" tire and want road manners than you can totally live with a D44 with RCV's and just get one from a 78/79 Bronco and slap it in. Road driving means you are not going to be running boggers on it so RCV's will keep it alive with the heaviest of right foots. (I don't think saying right feet makes sense).

37's on a D60 is the same ground clearance as 35's on a D44. 37's are the smallest I would ever condone running on one and I would push anyone to an 05+ setup for the cheap super strong dealer available shafts and tight turning radius.

 

[Highrollerz23]

So I have decided to swap out the d60 for a full length d44 out of what Im told is a 76 f150. id does have disk brakes and what looks to be welded on control arm wedges. how much fun are those to get off? im going to guess they are in the wrong place. i will be picking it up tomorrow evening. no matter what, it looks to be a better choice than what I have to work with now.

 

[68ford]

So I have decided to swap out the d60 for a full length d44 out of what Im told is a 76 f150. id does have disk brakes and what looks to be welded on control arm wedges. how much fun are those to get off? im going to guess they are in the wrong place. i will be picking it up tomorrow evening. no matter what, it looks to be a better choice than what I have to work with now.

I would leave and use the original cast wedges. The short side being all cast, you can't re weld them anywhere else.
Maybe see if James duff will sell you the clamping parts only for the c wedges, then build your own radius arms? Or use a long arm meant for an EB, but move the mounts outboard the frame?

 

[Qumanchew]

I would leave and use the original cast wedges. The short side being all cast, you can't re weld them anywhere else.
Maybe see if James duff will sell you the clamping parts only for the c wedges, then build your own radius arms? Or use a long arm meant for an EB, but move the mounts outboard the frame?

I believe you're thinking of a 78-79. 76 has welded on wedges. That's what I've got in mine. They're easy to cut off and move back to early bronco width. By moving them to EB width you eliminate any chance of radius arm tire rub.

 

[sprdv1]

Welcome aboard!!!

 

[Highrollerz23]

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so unfortunately i got there late and it was dark and i was in a hurry. this is the axle, it sure looks like the full cast so im assuming its the 78-79. ill take a better look at it in the morning.

 

[Qumanchew]

You are correct, it looks like a 78-79. I think some guys run them just like that so you can still use it.

 

[Highrollerz23]

So I have that all figured out. I'm moving forward with the full length dana 44. My last issue with the front axle is the lug pattern. It's currently 5 lug. I need to convert it to 8 lug 170mm to match the sterling rear. What are the chances that the d60 I have from the 01 f350 will have some of what I need to convert it? It's complete rotor to rotor.

 

[Apogee]

So I have that all figured out. I'm moving forward with the full length dana 44. My last issue with the front axle is the lug pattern. It's currently 5 lug. I need to convert it to 8 lug 170mm to match the sterling rear. What are the chances that the d60 I have from the 01 f350 will have some of what I need to convert it? It's complete rotor to rotor.

Nothing from the 2001 F350 D60 will move over the the D44. Different everything...maybe a diff cover bolt or something, but for all practical purposes, the D60 is a D44 on steroids with bigger ball joints, knuckles, axles, gears, bearings, brakes, etc. Why aren't you running the D60, narrowed or not?

 

[Highrollerz23]

Not narrowed and the diff ends up under the frame. More than I want to deal with plus there's almost no room between diff and driver side hub

 

[Madgyver]

Not narrowed and the diff ends up under the frame. More than I want to deal with plus there's almost no room between diff and driver side hub

there are options to make it work.