Full Width Front end Stretch....

[tdc_worm]

I think I have searched and read every post with the txt string "stretch" in it, but still looking for a little more insight.

I am putting a FW HP D44 under my truck with a goal of locating it somewhere around 4-6" forward with Cage Arms. I plan on shaving the front cross member for clearance and adding an additional brace in front of it to maintain rigidity. coil buckets and trac bar mount will be moved forward also. I may or may not narrow the front clip at some point also...

How far forward can I go with FW axles and 38" tires before I have a problem with the front body mounts?

Still have yet to decided what to do with the steering box yet (stock 1977 setup), but it looks like any more than 4" will put the pitman arm in the way draglink. I am open to suggestions here, too.

 

[Gummi Bear]

I'm assuming with all this work, you'll be looking at 38" or larger tires?

The body mounts should be on your 'trash' list when you start thinking about making modifications like that.

Watch your clearances when you go that far forward, the tires will get into the grille at stuff and turn.

Other than that, make sure that your driveshaft doesn't get into the oilpan at stuff (HP is a different set of clearances) and every other possible angle you can.

Build mockup pieces out of cardboard, cardboard tube, PVC and whatever else before you start with the metal work.

 

[tdc_worm]

Tires are 38" Creepies. I don't forsee the driveshaft being a problem as the FWHP D44 pumpkin will sit closer to the frame rail than the stock D44, but I will be sure to check it as well.

The grill and the core support will see some trimming and possibly some narrowing. My main concerns were how far forward I could go before those mounts become an issue w/ FW axles, and what is the best steering gear box solution...

hopefully somebody w/ full width and a similar setup will have some insight...i hate re-creating the wheel and making more work for myself....

 

[Gummi Bear]

If you're dead set on keeping mechanical steering, a F150 box is about as cheap and strong as you can get. A rebuilt EB box is pretty killer too.

If you're not prioritizing it's being a street driven machine, I'd go full hydro, and elimniate a lot of problems all at once.

I like PSC for my steering stuff, a lot of folks here will suggest West Texas as well, he's done right by several folks.

 

[mp]

You can stop by my house and look at my rig with full widths. I am in the process of narrowing it and I can show you my thoughts and plans. No core support when done. I too plan on stretching out the front ehd eventually, and making mods now that will help when the time comes.

 

[welndmn]

about 4 to 5 inches and you will be in the body mount.
I used to run mine with 38's and smashed it 42's.
Just trash it, or move to on top of the frame.
I hard mounted mine.
Steering will be your challenge.
I ran a scout box, and hated it, but it worked.
Full hydro fixes the problem.

 

[tdc_worm]

Just a thought on the steering:

Say I switch to an F150/FSB box, mount it with something similar to Dusty's plate but leave the pitman arm facing forwards. By leaving the pitman arm forwards, I accomplish two things: I negate the reverse sector shaft rotation of the F150/FSB box and get the drag link out of the way of the axle when I push it forward. Is there anything that I am missing here?