Hardtop Liftgate Bolts and plate

[bronco t]

Just picked up a 1970's era hardtop with headliner (installed) and I am trying to re-attach the liftgate, but it appears the corresponding threads on the hardtop are missing or have shifted. Having never removed a lift gate before, what am I looking for to attach the screws to?

I am assuming that there would be either be a bar with threaded holes? Any help would be appreciated.

 

[56f100bbw]

These mount in the rear stake pockets To bolt the roof down and the liftgate bolts to these brackets

 

[WILDHORSES]

These mount in the rear stake pockets To bolt the roof down and the liftgate bolts to these brackets

That will bolt the top to the body but the liftgate is independent of those brackets. The liftgate hinge has 4 screws per side. If you don't have the original nut plates you can just bolt it up with screws, washes and nuts. You have a headliner so remove it until you get this worked out.

Jim

 

[bronco t]

That will bolt the top to the body but the liftgate is independent of those brackets. The liftgate hinge has 4 screws per side. If you don't have the original nut plates you can just bolt it up with screws, washes and nuts. You have a headliner so remove it until you get this worked out.

Jim

Thank you! Sounds like the headliner needs to come off which will no doubt lead to new opportunities!

Will the pre 69 hardtop rear stakes (the shorter ones) work on the 77 stake pockets, or am I now search of 70's rear stakes?

 

[WILDHORSES]

Thank you! Sounds like the headliner needs to come off which will no doubt lead to new opportunities!

Will the pre 69 hardtop rear stakes (the shorter ones) work on the 77 stake pockets, or am I now search of 70's rear stakes?

So just my opinion but I'm a stake hater. Could stem from paint jobs I screwed up back in the day by scratching them with the stakes. You don't have to use them. The top is way easier to put on without them. As for the pre 69 short stake I'm pretty sure you just use the upper hole and it's in the same spot. Not 100% sure but I have not noticed a difference in taillight housing for the earlys.

Jim

 

[Bitch'nBronco]

Another vote for no stakes, way easier to put the top on and take it off without scratching the bedsides with them gone

 

[bronco t]

I guess I have converted to a stake hater!

I peeled the headliner back and there is no sign of a "nut plate" or loose nuts in the channel. I am now in search of nut plates or plates with nuts! Do any of the vendors have these or have a used set they want to part with?

 

[DirtDonk]

I was sure we had them for sale now, but I don’t see them on the website.
Since I don’t have most of our parts memorized like Johnny does I have to consult the website!
Maybe they’re temporarily out of stock, but you might give a call in to Wild Horses to see if we have any new or used.

A good source for used parts in the western region (or anywhere really) is Driven Auto Parts in Phoenix.
Another one is Tom’s in Oregon but I don’t know if they still have the supply of used parts that they used to.
There’s Northeastern Classic parts in the east (naturally) or you can probably message member Delconick here.

Good luck. I would bet somebody has them.

 

[bronco t]

Thanks Paul! I could not find the plate on anyone's website but will reach out to Nick on Monday.

I had the opportunity to check out a few hardtops at a Bronco event I held at my house today and could not get my eyes or a tape measure on the plate, but I am guessing the plate extends past the first and fourth hole by one inch each end and is inch wide. What I couldn't determine was if the 1/4-20 holes were centered (front to back) on the plate! I was surprised at how all of the nut plates were puffy balls of rust and that they actually were still supporting the lift gate after all these years.

Thanks again!

 

[Dne007]

Oldtimer passed the question to me as I have worked on my hardtop installation recently. My retainers were badly rusted but still usable. I thought I had an old one, but alas, I do not. but I think they would be easy enough to make. They have little recesses for the clip on 1/4" nut things. But I think just a piece of flat bar would suffice. Just have to measure the length of what you need, drill the holes, slide on the nut things~ Ideally it'd probably be nice if the lock plate was held in place permanently so one wouldn't have to take the headliner down, but I did not take my own advice and install it the usual way.
hope this helps you
dne'

please forgive the crude drawing, but it gives you an idea of what it looks like in its original form. but I think a flat bar would work just fine without the recesses.

 

[bronco t]

Oldtimer passed the question to me as I have worked on my hardtop installation recently. My retainers were badly rusted but still usable. I thought I had an old one, but alas, I do not. but I think they would be easy enough to make. They have little recesses for the clip on 1/4" nut things. But I think just a piece of flat bar would suffice. Just have to measure the length of what you need, drill the holes, slide on the nut things~ Ideally it'd probably be nice if the lock plate was held in place permanently so one wouldn't have to take the headliner down, but I did not take my own advice and install it the usual way.
hope this helps you
dne'

please forgive the crude drawing, but it gives you an idea of what it looks like in its original form. but I think a flat bar would work just fine without the recesses.

Dne - thanks for the sketch! I didn't realize the bar had recesses for the speed nuts (aka nut things), which might make it a little difficult to duplicate, so I am probably going to build one with a straight bar and weld nuts on the top. Do you recall how wide the bar was and if the holes were centered between the edges? Everyone I have checked out has been really rusty, which leads me to believe that area is a moisture trap! The only drawback to a straight bar with welded nuts is that side to side adjustment might be limiting. It is worth a try!

 

[Dne007]

I'm so sorry that I didn't take pics while I had them out, but the width might have only been about an inch wide, the total length should be easy enough. but if you use flatbar with welded on nuts, I think that would be better. There is a miniscule of adjustment due to the size of the holes in the hard top, could help with adjustment, however I didn't find it all that helpful.
dne'

Dne - thanks for the sketch! I didn't realize the bar had recesses for the speed nuts (aka nut things), which might make it a little difficult to duplicate, so I am probably going to build one with a straight bar and weld nuts on the top. Do you recall how wide the bar was and if the holes were centered between the edges? Everyone I have checked out has been really rusty, which leads me to believe that area is a moisture trap! The only drawback to a straight bar with welded nuts is that side to side adjustment might be limiting. It is worth a try!