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Hedman headers and trans tube

rydog1130

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Ok so I'm running the painted headman headers w/ a deep B&M aluminum pan and the headers are coming into contact with the tube. I was told by Jeffs that I'd probably have to go back to the stock pan in order for things to fit right. I'm interested if anyone knows any hacks other than cutting the tube down and re weld it? I want to keep the deep pan if possible!
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76YETI

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Rydog, I couldn't find any threads other than cutting, bending and re-welding. I had the same setup and same problem. I have since bought shorty headers (ceramic coated) from BH and will be installing them soon as well as the deep pan that has been in a box for 6 months. So my new deep pan, cost me a lot of cash! The PO installed my headman headers without painting or coating them, so they are rusty as hell....so that's how I justified it to myself :) Good Luck!
 

Mountain Ram

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Same headers, I picked up a TCI pan and tried to instal it with the same issues... I installed a Lokar dipstick tube and it was no better. I stayed with the stock pan...
 

Master Chief

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I'm interested if anyone knows any hacks other than cutting the tube down and re weld it? I want to keep the deep pan if possible!

Ryan, it may be possible to "reshape" the current tube. Try heating it up and adjusting the bend radius a bit.

Another option might be the Lokar version. Photos attached of the horizontal and vertical measurements so you'll know if you gain any clearance. (scratch this idea, Ram and I posted at the same time. Looks like the Lokar tube interferes too.)

Hope this helps.
Roger
 

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DirtDonk

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I'm thinking it will be at least a similiar, if not the same issue with any header and that pan.
I know it's a major interference with our headers. Stock pan no problem, but the big pan, big problem.

I'm only assuming it's not an issue with a stock manifold though. Never heard anyone mention one, but that doesn't mean it doesn't exist.

Paul
 
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rydog1130

rydog1130

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Damn that's what I thought....thank you very much!
 
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rydog1130

rydog1130

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So, I cut about 1" off at the base and left about 1/2" of tube coming out of the nut. I then slid the 1/2" section into the larger diameter section and welded it. The nut that tightens on the flange is froze in place so I figured what the hell do I have to loose if I mess this one up. Anyways, I welded it up and painted it and oh conducted a leak test to check my welds! I'm going to toss it on today and see how it fits..I'll have more pictures up later!

IMG_4360.jpg
 
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68ford

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Dec 26, 2004
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I used a tight radius 90 degree fitting that is inverted flair on on the pan end and crimp on the other. Used "hot air" hose for a diesel with an air compressor. So basically thin wall stainless braided hose about 3/4 diameter. Cleared the same headers fine with alloy pan with brass inserted adaptor. Any heavy duty truck shop should be able to make you a hose. The other end is caps with a pipe plug. No way to get dipstick to seal. But it works.
 

pcf_mark

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Nice work cutting, welding and making it work. I had to bend mine down low then again up higher because it was hit the trans. I used a conduit bender.
 

76 bronco J

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Oct 20, 2005
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>>> here's another option for that problem with the long tube hedman headers .... just move the fill tube lower on the pan & put a temperature fitting above....luckly the mechanical autometer temp fitting was also 1/2" NPT threads & the pan is extra thick top to bottom where the fittings.... reading on the dipstick will be different....
 

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rydog1130

rydog1130

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And here it is installed fits really good and should still get an accurate reading on it! I should fab these up lol
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KBUCK1

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Feb 8, 2011
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I have that pan and headman headers and a lokar flexible dipstick. No problems
 
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