help with 96/97 explorer upper plenum mods

[papy]

After some good help and tips from members on one of my previous posts its now time to move on to the next step. I tapped and plugged the EGR hole on the lower intake and now wondering what i have to do to the upper intake to complete the EGR delete.

its been quit sometime since i took everything apart and my memory is serving short of what is what lol.

can someone tell me what all the hoses and tubes are and whet needs to be plugged and or modified for the EGR delete?



also i have been on the fence about deleting the evap system till this point. i spoke with Gary EFI guy today and he is ready to start working on my engine harness therefore a decision needs to be made real quick. he mentioned prepping the harness with the evap wires tied off if i choose to go evap or not, or if i dont then he wont run the wires at all and no ECU programming required either way.

should i keep or delete the evap? if i delete what do i need to modify on the upper plenum to makes things work properly?

thank you in advance

JP

 

[DirtDonk]

I would keep EVAP if your Bronco already has it. What year is your rig? If '70 and later and the stuff is still there, then might as well use it at least in it's basic form without the computer control.

Since you have the opportunity to have EFI Guy keep the control circuit (CAN-P) I would actually use it. Get a later model charcoal canister and let the fumes get sucked into the engine, timed by the computer through the purge solenoid.
I don't see any downside to keeping it, other than perhaps a little bit of extra tubing under the hood.

If you just want to keep your Bronco's EVAP system in place and working like it used to, then you do not need the CAN-P circuit, OR any of the vacuum lines. The intake from the charcoal canister will simply go into your air-filter housing or intake tube. No vacuum, just gently pulling it into the engine behind the MAF sensor.

If you have an early '70 or older and it does not have any of that, well then it's up to you. I would still try to make it work, but some people claim they don't have any fumes.
Are you going to be parking it in a garage?

Paul

 

[904Bronco]

Pappy here is a stock 96 with PCV hoses in place. A lot of guys have simplified this with just one port eliminating the extra hose.

It also has the hose that would go to the vacuum operated Brake booster

You will need a vacuum source for the Fuel Reg on the fuel rail.

Pretty much everything else in the front of the plenum can go.. remove steel pipes, tape with 1/8" tape, sealant and a pipe plug.

If you keep the Evap, you will need a vacuum source for it.

Updated Picture ***

 

[DirtDonk]

As far as which tubes you need to keep, besides PCV (which you MUST keep) what other vacuum accessories do you have?
Early style auto trans with vacuum modulator?
Vacuum booster for the brakes?
Running a distributor with vacuum advance, or running DIS?

One or two of the large 3/8" tubes can go to the PCV valve in the back of the intake. Pretty sure Ford had the two in the far end of the plenum T-eed together, but you can get away with one if you want. I would use two, so any oil that does get past the baffles can get spread out among the cylinders better.
A vacuum booster will take one of the other 3/8" barbs.
Any fuel pressure regulator on yours? If so it needs one of the small 1/4" (or 3/16"?) size fittings.
Same for an old-school auto transmission. One of the small ports.

That's all I can think of off the top of my head.

Paul

 

[papy]

I would keep EVAP if your Bronco already has it. What year is your rig? If '70 and later and the stuff is still there, then might as well use it at least in it's basic form without the computer control.

Since you have the opportunity to have EFI Guy keep the control circuit (CAN-P) I would actually use it. Get a later model charcoal canister and let the fumes get sucked into the engine, timed by the computer through the purge solenoid.
I don't see any downside to keeping it, other than perhaps a little bit of extra tubing under the hood.

If you just want to keep your Bronco's EVAP system in place and working like it used to, then you do not need the CAN-P circuit, OR any of the vacuum lines. The intake from the charcoal canister will simply go into your air-filter housing or intake tube. No vacuum, just gently pulling it into the engine behind the MAF sensor.

If you have an early '70 or older and it does not have any of that, well then it's up to you. I would still try to make it work, but some people claim they don't have any fumes.
Are you going to be parking it in a garage?

Paul

Paul,

my rig is a 67 and does not have a factory EVAP. I do plan on parking it in the garage.

 

[papy]

As far as which tubes you need to keep, besides PCV (which you MUST keep) what other vacuum accessories do you have?
Early style auto trans with vacuum modulator?
Vacuum booster for the brakes?
Running a distributor with vacuum advance, or running DIS?

One or two of the large 3/8" tubes can go to the PCV valve in the back of the intake. Pretty sure Ford had the two in the far end of the plenum T-eed together, but you can get away with one if you want. I would use two, so any oil that does get past the baffles can get spread out among the cylinders better.
A vacuum booster will take one of the other 3/8" barbs.
Any fuel pressure regulator on yours? If so it needs one of the small 1/4" (or 3/16"?) size fittings.
Same for an old-school auto transmission. One of the small ports.


Paul

Paul,

i am running (will be) with an ax15 trans. not sure what i am doing for brake set up yet - hydro or vacuum probably hydro...

 

[papy]

thank you for the pics 904bronco and all the info from you and Paul.

i understand now for the most part what needs to be done to the upper plenum

1. for fuel pressure regulator located on fuel rail which i have - KEEP

2. - if i go with vacuum brake booster - KEEP
- if i go hydro-boost REMOVE and PLUG

3. factory PCV - KEEP

4. - if i go with EVAP - KEEP
- if i delete EVAP - REMOVE AND PLUG

5. for factory PCV - KEEP

6. REMOVE and PLUG


Any other mods that i should be aware of to complete this? anything on the lower intake or engine? i dont want to miss something hand have to take this apart again once I've buttoned everything up.

thanks

 

[bigmuddy]

Just in case someone runs across the thread and wants to take a short cut, do not use the rubber vacuum plugs. I have purchased them and they look good for a week or so but then begin to leak. Hell they may even look decent on the truck but pull them off and squeeze them and they will look like swiss cheese.

EFI hates any outside air not metered through the MAF and will cause significant idling/driving issues.

 

[papy]

Just in case someone runs across the thread and wants to take a short cut, do not use the rubber vacuum plugs. I have purchased them and they look good for a week or so but then begin to leak. Hell they may even look decent on the truck but pull them off and squeeze them and they will look like swiss cheese.

EFI hates any outside air not metered through the MAF and will cause significant idling/driving issues.

Thank you for the info. What are you suggesting with the MAF? Can you explain what you did and what you experienced.
Thanks

 

[904Bronco]

Thank you for the info. What are you suggesting with the MAF? Can you explain what you did and what you experienced.
Thanks

What he is saying is that we recommend removing the unused ports and plugging them... Not leaving them and placing a rubber cap on them because the material used fails pretty quick. Then you have vacuum leaks, which is in addition to the air that is metered by the MAS and it is not seeing that. EFI cannot compensate for that and your engine runs crappy.

 

[papy]

What he is saying is that we recommend removing the unused ports and plugging them... Not leaving them and placing a rubber cap on them because the material used fails pretty quick. Then you have vacuum leaks, which is in addition to the air that is metered by the MAS and it is not seeing that. EFI cannot compensate for that and your engine runs crappy.

Got that. Thought he was suggesting something to do with EGR being deleted.

Thanks again.

 

[DirtDonk]

I do plan on parking it in the garage.

You can go one of two ways then, but both most likely will eventually lead you to one form of EVAP or another.

If you leave it as-is, with no extra circuit for it in the new harness, you will:
1. Have no fuel vapor problems and just live with it this way (less likely).
2. Have enough vapor issues to piss off the rest of the family until you fix it (I say this is more likely than #1).

If #1, you're in good shape. Drive it and have fun.
If #2, you can retrofit an old-school style from any model year and make it work, but best is as mentioned earlier, the later model plastic charcoal canister. Plumbed in to the vent in the tank that you may have (more on that later) then just vented into the intake tract between the MAF sensor and Throttle Body.

If you think you might want Garry to wire in the appropriate circuit, but still not sure you want to go the full route yet, as him if it will trigger a check-engine light if you don't have an evap system to hook up.

I have to admit that with a '67 you're still going to be dealing with fully vented gas cap(s) because only the early style fit your filler neck. But the venting of the EVAP system will still help with the fumes.
If your Bronco is in pieces however, now would be the time to consider all this and if you go with the new system, replace your original filler neck(s) with the later model ones you can buy new.

So this all goes to the question, what fuel tank(s) will you be using? Stock original, or aftermarket?

Paul

 

[904Bronco]

Paul,

He is running a factory tank due to the cost involved in shipping something North to Canada.

Question to you... How do you like 68 that I converted to Explorer, no Evap under engine vacuum purge, just a updated CC vented to the atmosphere... He could go that route...
I believe if Garry wires in for a Canister purge using Mustang components, it will not throw a light whether if it is there or not.... Garry question for sure...

 

[papy]

You can go one of two ways then, but both most likely will eventually lead you to one form of EVAP or another.

If you leave it as-is, with no extra circuit for it in the new harness, you will:
1. Have no fuel vapor problems and just live with it this way (less likely).
2. Have enough vapor issues to piss off the rest of the family until you fix it (I say this is more likely than #1).

If #1, you're in good shape. Drive it and have fun.
If #2, you can retrofit an old-school style from any model year and make it work, but best is as mentioned earlier, the later model plastic charcoal canister. Plumbed in to the vent in the tank that you may have (more on that later) then just vented into the intake tract between the MAF sensor and Throttle Body.

If you think you might want Garry to wire in the appropriate circuit, but still not sure you want to go the full route yet, as him if it will trigger a check-engine light if you don't have an evap system to hook up.

I have to admit that with a '67 you're still going to be dealing with fully vented gas cap(s) because only the early style fit your filler neck. But the venting of the EVAP system will still help with the fumes.
If your Bronco is in pieces however, now would be the time to consider all this and if you go with the new system, replace your original filler neck(s) with the later model ones you can buy new.

So this all goes to the question, what fuel tank(s) will you be using? Stock original, or aftermarket?

Paul

Paul,

When i spoke with Gary he mentioned that if we were to prep the harness for evap and and not use them that no codes will show. keeping in mind, he only tested this on his bench and he hasn't had anyone call him back that went this route.

i have a new filler neck that came with the bronco. it is WH Item #9727

for the fuel tank i was planning on retrofitting the OE rear and Aux to work with my 5.0 however i am kind of leaning towards buying a EFI ready tank from one of the vendors. it just seems like he way to go however i just gotta get past the landed to my door price with currency exchange and North of the border shipping...

 

[papy]

Paul,

He is running a factory tank due to the cost involved in shipping something North to Canada.

Question to you... How do you like 68 that I converted to Explorer, no Evap under engine vacuum purge, just a updated CC vented to the atmosphere... He could go that route...
I believe if Garry wires in for a Canister purge using Mustang components, it will not throw a light whether if it is there or not.... Garry question for sure...

haha that what i was just saying. good memory 904bronco

 

[papy]

Pappy here is a stock 96 with PCV hoses in place. A lot of guys have simplified this with just one port eliminating the extra hose.

It also has the hose that would go to the vacuum operated Brake booster

You will need a vacuum source for the Fuel Reg on the fuel rail.

Pretty much everything else in the front of the plenum can go.. remove steel pipes, tape with 1/8" tape, sealant and a pipe plug.

If you keep the Evap, you will need a vacuum source for it.

Updated Picture ***

i am comparing your MAF manifold pic to my MAF manifold pic. the plumbing appears to be significantly different. perhaps someone changed thing around on mine or possibly set up differently for CAN?

my PCV valve/hose is connected to the middle left tube only. yours is middle right tube to lower left then out

 

[papy]

i am comparing your MAF manifold pic to my MAF manifold pic. the plumbing appears to be significantly different. perhaps someone changed thing around on mine or possibly set up differently for CAN?

my PCV valve/hose is connected to the middle left tube only. yours is middle right tube to lower left then out

904bronco,

discard my last message. i went into the shed and pulled out all the explorer pluming and pieced everything together. Error on my end, thought the hose in my pic was the PCV but i was wrong. it all makes sense now

cheers

 

[DirtDonk]

Great news for having the new filler neck. But that also means that adding the charcoal canister system, whether static or computer controlled, is almost a necessity now. Because the new style caps only vent inward, not allowing fumes (or pressure from expansion) outward. So the evap system becomes an important factor.

As Doug said, the '68 has just the static version, which does not rely on the computer, or a purge valve. It's set up like a '76 or '77 Bronco, with the canister on the passenger side of the firewall.
At least one member here has his on the driver's side, but the function is the same.

Paul

 

[papy]

Great news for having the new filler neck. But that also means that adding the charcoal canister system, whether static or computer controlled, is almost a necessity now. Because the new style caps only vent inward, not allowing fumes (or pressure from expansion) outward. So the evap system becomes an important factor.

As Doug said, the '68 has just the static version, which does not rely on the computer, or a purge valve. It's set up like a '76 or '77 Bronco, with the canister on the passenger side of the firewall.
At least one member here has his on the driver's side, but the function is the same.

Paul

Paul,

Do the new EFI ready tanks from our vendors Have an evap port?

 

[904Bronco]

Paul,

When i spoke with Gary he mentioned that if we were to prep the harness for evap and and not use them that no codes will show. keeping in mind, he only tested this on his bench and he hasn't had anyone call him back that went this route. ...

I have this on two of my Explorer conversions, to my knowledge they both work as designed.